There is a lot of useful information out there about changing the diesel's oil yourself, but it's kind of spread out a bit and there is a lack of pics. So now that mine is done, here is my attempt to put it all in one place.

Parts:

• 8 liters of C30 or VW 507.00 oil
• Oil filter w/O-Ring (95810722220)
• Drain plug crush washer (N-013-815-7)

Tools:

• Ratchet
• Torque Wrench
• 32mm socket
• 10mm socket
• 6mm allan driver
• Extension bar for the ratchet
• Plenty of rags
• O-Ring pick (I just used a very small flat head)

Notes:

1. The crush washer is available from VW dealers (in case one is more local and you forgot to order one with your filter).
2. I used Castrol oil from a VW dealer meeting the VW 507.00 spec.
3. I used 5w30 oil because that is what the manual states. Two Porsche dealers have told me that they use 5w40 instead.
4. I used the drain plug for the oil change, but according to my dealer the recommendation from Porsche is to use an extractor.
5. I'm not stating or clearly showing where I put my jack stands as I don't know if I used a proper place or not. Obviously I survived, but that doesn't mean it's correct.
6. The dealer couldn't tell me the proper torque value for the drain plug (since they extract per Porsche). My process for identifying a value is detailed here.
7. Check and top off your coolant and power steering fluid as needed. See post #58

Steps:

1. Open the hood.
2. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back.
3. Jack up the front of the vehicle. The jack points are right behind the front wheels.
4. Remove the under carriage trays with the 10mm socket.
5. Get your oil pan ready and remove the drain plug with the 6mm allan driver. If you've taken just the rear tray off there are two plugs visible, there is a 3rd if you pull the front tray too. Only one takes a 6mm allan. If you are having to use something other than a 6mm allan then you are trying to open the wrong plug.
6. Loosen the cap for the oil filter with the 32mm socket. Unscrew it enough so the o-ring is visible.
7. I pulled the plug from the dipstick tube, but I'm not sure this is required.
8. Open the oil fill cap. Again not sure it's required, but the procedure my dad taught me as a kid was to open all that stuff.
9. Let it drain (I let it go for about half an hour or so).
10. Clean off the drain plug and your tools while you wait.
11. Remove the old crush washer from the drain plug. Mine was stuck pretty good and I had to find some pliers.
12. Wipe off the bottom of the oil pan and replace the drain plug. Torque to 30nm (22ft-lb) per "WM 1001IN Tightening torques for engine".
13. Wipe any new drips off.
14. Reinstall the under tray(s).
15. Drop the car back onto the ground.
16. To remove the oil filter from the cover, pull on it while twisting the cap. There are some slots and tabs that seem to need to line up.
17. Wipe the cap clean.
18. Remove the old o-ring from the oil filter cover and replace with the new one.
19. Fit the new filter into the container. The nipple fits into a hole on the right side (it was a little difficult to see due to some old oil still in there).
20. Screw the oil filter cap on and then torque to 35nm.
21. Fill it back up.
22. Put the plug back in the dipstick tube.
23. Snap the cover back on.
24. Reset your change interval. I used a Durametric.
25. Warm up the engine, find a level place, and check the oil level.

Notes:

• Technically you only need to remove the rear under tray. I removed both to make sure I wouldn't end up with a royal mess. I think it would have been fine, but I'll continue removing both for future changes.
• I put 7.5 liters back in and after the car warmed up (my kingdom for a real dipstick!) and it tells me I am bang on the max fill. It's more than I wanted in there, but it works. Next time I'll do 7.25 and then add as needed.
• If you follow my recommendations about opening the oil filter, it won't make a mess (looking at you BMW!!!).
• All it all it was pretty straight forward.

Pics:
All ready to get started:


Looking from front to rear with both trays off. The silver colored bar in the middle of the picture sits right under the oil pan.


Oil drain plug views:

On a lift with only the rear tray off. Red arrow points to the plug.


Close up while on the lift:


View from my back with both trays off:


Engine bay with the cover off.

• Purple circles = mounting nipples for the cover.
• Blue circle = Dipstick tube
• Red arrow = Points to the oil filter
• Green arrow = Points to the filler neck

 

Pretty good for the first time. Great detail and pics. I thought you might have fill level issues after reading other threads but looks like you did your homework .......Now how about that wash.

 

The fill was my biggest fear and honestly I got lucky. Prior to draining it was reading one notch below max, so obviously a fair amount of old oil was left in there if .25 of a liter less than the fill amount took me to the max.

I was taught under fill and then add as needed. Without a dipstick I had to guess and I was targeting the somewhere between the mid and bottom of the ok range.
So next time a little less and see how that does.

My body shop guy says he's the only one that ever washes my cars.

He's not wrong so the dirtier it gets the happier I am

Besides, P!gs like to be dirty

 

Just an update that while running errands yesterday the oil level had dropped to one segment under the max which is where it had been prior to the oil change (and since I picked it up). No sign of oil underneath so at least right now I'm assuming that is just a matter of it working itself around and into the filter. The pressure and temps still looked normal.

 

Checking to see if you concur; my experience the week before provided a conclusion that each of the 4 green segments between Max and Min represent 1/4 liter. The green segment above the Max line illuminates with the "Maximum Exceeded" message, and the green segment below the Min line illuminates with the "Below Minimum" message. If you're not paying attention - or if you ignore the message - it will turn red once you're two liters below Min.

//greg//

 

I only have book knowledge about any of that as I have not yet had to add oil, but that all seems to concur with what I have read (at least with the gassers).

 

Very useful ... thanks.

 

OK my (now most definitely) ex-dealer is a joke. They claimed that they didn't have the torque value for the drain plug as the Porsche defined procedure is the extraction method. I have now seen the document for changing the diesel oil and it covers both. Furthermore the "WM 1001IN Tightening torques for engine" document clearly defines the proper torque value for the oil drain plug as 22nm. They are a Porsche dealer so I would assume they actually have access to PIWIS...

I've updated my original instructions to include the official torque value.

 

Do you really never wash your car?

 

Got washed by my (new) dealer in June or July. Not since.

I had my Escape for 8 years and I washed it maybe 3 times plus 4 body shop visits.

After awhile the dirt gets pretty uniform and you don't even notice.

 

plus, you avoid paint swirls by not washing!

 

Should have gotten Meteor Gray!

 

My selling dealer took care of that for me

 

What was your parts cost? VW sold me the oil and stuff at full retail, but only charged 20 in labor for the oil change

 

Oil Filter ($15.04) and a 1.89l bottle of AdBlue ($8.51) (I haven't topped it up yet) plus shipping from ECS was $35ish.
8l of Castrol oil plus the crush washer for the drain plug was $79.10 (with VA tax) from my local VW dealer.

So just shy of $100 for what was actually used for the oil change not including the tools (32mm socket for the filter and allan drivers for the drain plug) I didn't have. I don't intend to fill the AdBlue until it actually tells me I need to.