I almost didn't do this myself, but when the local VW dealer balked at the job and upped it from 0.5 hours to 1 hour ($120) that changed my mind and I got my body shop guy to let me use some floor space (and his air compressor as it turns out) for a couple of hours.

I say a couple of hours, but it took 60 minute even from the time I pulled it into the shop until all was put back together. 15-20 of that as spent trying to figure out why the fuel extractor wasn't working (it's not a pump like I thought, it needed an air compressor). There was also some chatting and taking pics, so really I think (especially after you've done it once) 30 minutes is doable.

I only did the "WM 2034EN Draining water from fuel filter" process as I'm at 10k, but the only difference with the 20k service is that you discard the filter and install a new one.

This is an exceptionally easy job. The only "difficult" part is cleaning up the diesel that gets on you and the tools.

Parts:

• None if you are just draining.
• New filter element if you are changing. 95811013410 or Mann PU8007.

Tools:

• Apporpriate rachet
• Torque Wrench capable of 5lbs.
• 4-6" extention for rachet
• T20 driver bit for ratchet
• 4+ good rags
• Nitril gloves
• Fuel extractor
• 2 hose clamps
• Small thin bladed tool or flat head screwdriver for prying.

Notes:

• The official fuel extractor is available from VAG dealers (special order) and is referenced as "diesel extractor VAS 5226". When I checked my local VW dealer over the summer they wanted $90. I got mine for $60 from a non-public source.
• The VAS 5226 needs an air compressor connected to it's handle (no directions included or specified in PIWIS).
• Any extractor that will hold at least 100ml and get to the bottom of the filter case (it would have to be pretty damn big not to get down there) should do fine.
• Except for dealing with the engine cover, all items referenced are on the (facing) left side of the engine bay.
• PIWIS calls for "commercially available assembly pliers" with a part number/description of "Nr.72 Pos.1". I did try to source them and found the MFG but either they were ridiculously expensive or I couldn't source them. As shown in the pics I used a couple small vise grips.
• Steps labeled with "From PIWIS" are exact copies of the text.
• When I say have your rags in place, I mean it.

Steps:

1. Open the hood.
2. Pull the engine cover off. Make sure you get all four of the rubber gromets back.
3. Remove the panel at the top of the trim panel (next to firewall). It folds up and towards the fender and then will pull away.
4. Remove the expansion rivets from the front panel (not shown) and remove the panel. The PIWIS instructions also have your remove the front trim panel (find and remove the rivets) as well, but I was able to get the left panel out and back in without messing with the front panel.
5. Remove the 3 expansion rivets on the left trim panel and remove the panel. Two at the bottom and 1 at the top (see pics 1 and 2). Pry up the center "rectangle" part and when you pull it out enough the whole rivet will pull out without much force.
6. Use the hose clamps to pinch off the two supply lines. Facing the filter housing from the bumper the supply lines are the "bottom" and "top right".
7. Stuff/Wrap rags (I used two) around the body of the filter housing under the cap. When you pull the cap off, fuel will come out. Not only does it smell horrible, but PIWIS specifically warns against getting it on coolant hoses.
8. Use your ratchet and the T20 driver to remove the 5 screws on the top of the housing.
9. Make sure your rags are in place.
10. Gently pull the cover off the housing. Mine had a good seal and I had to use a small screw driver to pry between the housing and cover. As soon as the seal popped, fuel bubbled out (hope you had your rags in place!!!) and the cover lifts free.
11. Move the cover out of the way. As shown in the pics I moved it to the side and put it on a rag.
12. Lift out the fuel filter. This thing holds a lot of fuel so be prepared to hold it there for a bit.
13. Discard the filter if you are changing it or set it aside (where it won't get dirty) if you are only draining water.
14. Insert the hose of the extractor to the bottom of the housing and extract at least 100ml (according to PIWIS) of fuel.
15. Reinsert the fuel filter (or the new one).
16. Put the cover back on the housing and finger tighten the screws.
17. Torque the screws to 5 foot pounds.
18. Remove the hose clamps.
19. Remove the rags wrapped around the housing and cleanup any spilled fuel.
20. From PIWIS: Allow the engine to run at idle speed for a few minutes without pressing the accelerator and then switch the
    engine off again.
21. From PIWIS: The fuel system is bled automatically.
22. Check the fuel system for leaks.
23. Close the hood.
24. From PIWIS: perform a test drive with at least one full-throttle acceleration and check the high-pressure area for leaks again.
25. Open the hood.
26. Check again for leaks.
27. Reinstall the left trim panel.
28. Reinstall the front trim panel if you removed it.
29. Reinstall the upper cover.
30. Reinstall the engine cover.
31. Close the hood.

Pics:
The expansion rivet:


The rivet points (yellow arrows) for the left panel:



The filter housing. Red arrows indicate the screws. Green arrows are the supply lines. Blue arrow is the return line. My vise grips are already crimping the lines here. The line/tube that covers the left most screw just lifts out of place off the coolant tank (and I now realize I forgot to put it back in place...).


The cover off to the side. The blue is the top of the filter.


The filter


The drained fuel in the extractor. No sign of water. Color me shocked. Shocked I tell you!

 

More pics

 

Nice write up man!

 

Great write-up.

How were you able to ensure that there was no air bubbles in the fuel line(s)? (Most diesels don't run very smoothly on air.) I didn't read where you were able to bleed the fuel lines.

Carl

 

Steps 20, 21, and 24. It does that for you.

At the first WOT there was a big hesitation that felt like it was going to stall, otherwise (including a few more WOTs) it ran flawlessly.

 

My Intermediate Maintenance (2yr) is coming up in a few weeks. I've poked around and found that the Porsche P/N for the fuel filter is 95811013410 (thanks to Loren on Renntech) and Pelican helped me find out that the OE supplier is Mann and their part number is PU8007.

Unfortunately while Pelican has the best price (by $30!), they are out of stock for the Mann version.

Unsurprisingly (according to Mann's website) the T-Reg takes the same filter so I'll give my VW dealer a call in a bit and see if they have one in stock for a reasonable price (with Pelican being out of stock the range seems to be $70-$100).

Edit: The VW dealer wants about the same $70+tax, but I won't have to pay shipping and wait for it.

 

My part guy (not a business, he just has good contacts) actually got me the Mann direct part for $36. Picked it up today and it is indeed the same filter. I'll get side by side pics tomorrow when I swap them.

 

I'll get some pics added later, but other than the coloring of the top and the Mann info vs VW/Audi it is indeed the same.

Going into this maintenance I figured that post warranty I'd move to draining the water every 20k and swap the filter every 40k. Again there was no significant water in the system so I will move the 20k draining unless something changes in the last 1 I'll have to do under warranty.

The filter on the other hand seems to be about correct with the 20k interval. It was by no means clogged and could have gone on for awhile, but 40k (I think) would be too much and if I'm going to move to 20k draining then 30k would just get annoying. So I'll stick with 20k on the filter change.

I also learned that step 20 is important. I remembered that I needed to let it idle, but I didn't think about it too closely. So I started it up and backed it out of the garage to let it idle, or at least I intended too but it stalled on me. Given all the dire warnings about air in the HP side I will admit to a moment of puckering, but it started right back up and I let it finish idling.

Otherwise it went nice and smooth. Also did all the visual inspections and all looks well.

 

Here are some pics of the Mann vs factory filters. Most of the discoloration of the old filter is just being wet, but when I started looking in between the elements I was finding even darker staining that suggested that it was indeed doing it's job well.

Edit: Interesting, looking back at the picture of the filter in the first post the old filter has definitely gotten darker over the last 8 months. Both pics were taken in roughly the same location of the shop and have nearly identical lighting conditions. Maybe Porsche does know something after all

 

this is super-helpful information, gnat -- thanks a ton!

 

The official fuel filter part number for Cayennes 2013-on is Mann PU8007- same for the Touareg and Q7 as well. Surprisingly, as they're all the same, engine-wise.

eeuroparts.com has them at $39.24; Amazon at a hair more.

http://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/6404...-Filter-PU8007

New to Porsche ownership, but I already hate the dealers. Wait, you want me to drive 100 miles for an oil change? By an 18-y.o. newbie just out of an ASE course? As opposed to the old Austrian guy that serviced Steve McQueen's 300SEL 6.3 (i had one too)? That charges for actual time rather than "the book", and tells me, "no, you don't need that right now"?

Yeah, right. ;-)