I believe I covered a lot of this in my dash cam install post either here or on rennlist

 

Wait!! 42? That is labeled 'Inside Mirror' ... Isn't that the vanity mirror in the visor? I checked and that mirror has power even when the ignition is off - so that would drain the battery leaving the radar detector on..

Or is #42 another mirror / device that is powered off when the car is off??


Thanks!!

 

I'd have to check again, but I thought the rear view mirror's indicator light went out when I pulled 42. It'd be easy enough to check for the visor mirrors that way also. It's too eff'in cold around here this week to fiddle with it.

What I've never determined is where in the circuit the 30 minute cut-off is handled. In my '17 (and presumably others from '15 onward) the car will continue to provide power to certain accessories for up to 30 minutes after the ignition is turned off. I've found this to be true for the various accessory sockets. I have not, however, found a way to easily determine if the power is cut off before or after the fuse panel circuits for them. That'd be the ideal circuit to use for most accessories as the car will continue to power them if it senses powering being used when the ignition is turned off. If nothing's consuming power it shuts the sockets off with the ignition. And it does not return power to them until the ignition is turned back on again.

If you ever use devices that operate off a USB source it's handy to put a meter like this one in-line to monitor consumption. I was worried about powering a dashcam until seeing how little it consumed overnight. Not enough to justify much concern.

 

You're right about the delay in everything powering off. I'm going to open a window and leave the car for 1/2 an hour and then open the visor mirror and see if it is still is lit. If not, then I'll use that circuit (pull out the fuse and verify that is it - but I can't imagine what else it is powering)??

Thanks!

 

GreAt news! I left the drivers window open and after 1/2 an hour, the car powered down (I could tell because my cigarette lighter USB power supply's light went out) and I reached in through the window and opened the visor mirror slide and no power to the light. So, that's the fuse to use!

 

I wasn't aware the visor mirrors would also be handled by the 30 minute timer. Good to know. But I'm not sure if that answers the question about whether the cut-off it handed before or after fuse panel. I'll have to check mine, forecast says it'll be 60F again the day after tomorrow. I'm curious... but not curious enough to work bare fingers outside at 30F right at the moment. That and prying plastic when it's cold is asking for trouble.

 

Good point - I guess I'll just quick, temporarily wire it and check it after 30 minutes. Thanks!

 

I checked, 42 does not power the visor mirror lights. At least not the driver side one on my '17 GTS. Pulling 42 does not cause the visor mirror lights to go out, they stayed lit.

I thought it was specifically tied to the ignition being on but just now when testing, it seems to stay powered. I have a phone charging cradle on it (iOttie wireless for my S7) and it has a small blue indicator light. I'll eye it up in a half-hour and see if it's still lit. It'd be great if this was part of the time-out circuit...

Also note that position 44 has constant power, but only as a source. That is, most circuits have a 12v source from the main supply, which then goes through the fuse to the circuit/load side. The socket at position 44 has only the power side, there's nothing in the socket for the circuit. At one point I used that, also as a test, to see if power was ever shut off to it... it never shuts off. Not that this helps, however, just an FYI.

 

Yeah - hopefully that works out. The time out circuit is a bit of a PITA.

I'm going to install tonight and see what happens.
I guess worst case, if none of those do it, I'll use the subwoofer output (30 amp) and piggy back there.

 

Little late to the game, but...

I ran my V1 from the passenger side box and used the Xenon headlight fuse, works great.

Don't count on the empty slots having power. I've read about others that have had those slots getting power, but none of them are connected in my 2013. Porsche is notorious for custom wire bundles so that if your car doesn't have an option, it won't have the wiring for it. So this is a case where YMMV really applies...

 

Well, wire is heavy. Enough that using bus networks (CAN, LIN, etc) are worthwhile in that they save from running a bunch of 12v circuits all over the place. Likewise, the relatively small quantities of these being made means the factory/subcontractors aren't going to derive 'as much' economy of scale from making a ton of generic wire harnesses.

I found a couple of source-only circuits in my fuse panels. Stuff listed as for Hybrid systems. This being a owner-ordered gasoline GTS, so WTF? I'm debating spending on PIWIS access in order to get actual factory wiring diagrams. I'm thinking of waiting a few months in order to let them integrate the actual differences from pre-'17 models. But that's probably being overly optimistic.

I have a boat, so I'm well acquainted with how one-off/limited construction runs tend to veer away wildly from printed documentation and schematics.

 

Well to conclude, 'Interior Mirror' is not the lit vanity mirrors but the powered, dimming Rear View Mirror (Fuse #42) and it only powers up on ignition - so ideal. I plugged into that using a 3 AMP fuse with the 'Add A Circuit' and all works great!

Thanks all!

 

I have the Passport installed (w remote sensors) radar detector NIB but the dealer isn't enthusiastic about installing it. (It's now on the 9th day at the dealer for an electrical problem--running but they don't know why it wouldn't start last week. I think I'm getting it back today and they'll call that problem a mystery). So I'm a little leery of tapping into the electrical panel. Maybe using my plug-n-play 9500 detector like you have is the way to go. How are you mounting the detector itself? Any problems with the electric? What fuse did you end up using? Wire routing?

 

There's little to be "leery" about if you're using something like an add-a-tap. No cutting or otherwise changing any factory wiring. Pull out a fuse, plug it into the add-a-tap and plug that back into the fuse's location. Making sure, of course, to use fuse ratings no greater than what the circuit already allows.

The only tedious part is running it across the headliner and down the right-hand A-pillar to reach the fuse box. This is pretty mundane as none of those paths require anything other than careful finger prying and perhaps the use of a plastic spudger/spatula kind of implement. Just mind that it's better to run the wire BEHIND the airbag in the A-pillar, not in front of it.

No doubt the dealer wants to clear the existing service issues against it before burning up more time installing something aftermarket. Seems sensible to sort existing things out first before tacking on something new.

 

Just to clarify this, it means to run it down the A-pillar against the windshield. Then you can tuck it in at the base around the dashboard and fish it into the cavity where the fuse box is when you get it to the door.

The air bag starts about midway up the A-pillar and continue to the B-pillar. So crossing over at the top of the A-pillar and running down under the door seal actually crosses over the airbag.

There is lots of debate out there over how much impact such routing can have on airbag deployment, but to me it's simply a matter of "there is an equally simple alternative, so why even chance it?".