So, what appears to cause this "electronic" fault? Over use?

 

Thanks. I partially rebuilt the assembly. I fixed the plastic arm by rebuilding it in epoxy and sanding down to size, and yes , the magnet polar orientation matters. Also realigned the hall sensor (3 micronas 504k units ) assembly as it appeared mine was out of square possibly from the broken arm. You can pretty much replace all the parts off a used one or order new from digi-key with the exception of the coded IC.

 

If you have time write up a quick DIY procedure to help the board. I'm sure many here including me would be thankful!

 

I'm working on a write up - had a nice one almost finished posting on the other forum and lost it before it posted - argh. I'll try to get it up soon. Not sure yet what causes these problems. Could be QC to some degree or ?

 

I have sent mine off to a place in Sydney he said the board was fried and I need another second hand one, so got him one, he soldered some components in and sent it back, I refitted the part and put the column back in the car turned the key and still had the steering Fault on the dash with nothing happening, so called guy who fixed it he told me to send it back to him so its with him now and i'm waiting to hear,
The plastic plunger I think can only fit in one way as there is a recess for it to sit on down the small hole so when steering lock operates it moves up and down with it.
thanks for pics and advice, what we need is for Porsche to get on board and sort this major problem out.

 

When you got it back, did you clear the stored fault code from KESSY? when this fault is set, term 15 will NOT fire up until the fault is cleared. You have to wake up the CAN line that has KESSY on it by holding in the brake pedal for 25 seconds. This will wake up enough of the CAN bus to allow communication with ano OBD device such as Durametric or PIWIS.

 

Excellent!!! Thanks!

I have a feeling why these parts are feeling is because Porsche went with the lowest bidder, and you get what you pay for!!!

Can this board be removed without removing the column?

 

Yes it can be removed without removing column. The assembly is accessible from the dash side once the interior trim pieces are removed. There are 4 "headless" bolts that I removed with a small chisel and needle nose pliers. After those are removed, there is one additional torx headed bolt that is accessible thru the lock assembly. It can only be removed if your column is unlocked. One 3 wire plug, and the lock assembly will be free. To access the board, you will need to remove the back plate to access the PCB.

 

when i got it back from Guy is Sydney I asked him if I needed to get any codes cleared he said the part should be refitted and it will be OK but it didn't work.
so I will see what happens next time I get it back, Problem over here In Perth Australia is that there are only a couple of Porsche dealers they charge $200 an hour but wont give a time frame of how long to read codes so will hit me up with a large bill. Unfortunately if it fails this time I think I will have to take it to them and see what the outcome is .

Porsche need to get onto this, hopefully someone from Porsche will be following this thread

 

Information surrounding this item is hard to come by. The Touareg forums were helpful as well as some Bentley sites. Same lock. One other common failure point on the Cayennes is the "wire splice" issue on the driver's floorboard side but I don't have any experience with that to comment on. This is the only ESL that I've found that uses 3 Hall effect sensors rather than microswitches to determine slide position.

 

I Removed mine with column still in car its a pain in the **** when i came to refit the electric panel the plastic plunger fell out so I decided to remove the column it takes about 20 mins and worth the effort as it makes any further work on it easy.
Mine still has steering lock on and it came off reasonably easy.
its so much easier working on column when out of the car,
I have checked all my wiring in foot well area and all looks new .

 

John - I highly suggest getting a Durametric setup ~$300 usd. This will allow you to do a lot of your own work and troubleshooting.

 

will that read the codes I need to clear ?
Whats the name and model of the Durametric.
Thanks john

 

Yes. It will read and clear this code. I use Durametric Enthusiast which is limited to 3 vehicle use by VIN number.

 

It might seem possible to do two things:

1 - Disable the motor in the column unlocked position
2 - Use a jumper on the Hall-Effect sensors to indicate to the circuits that the column is unlocked.

That's assuming it's a problem with the sensors thinking the column is locked.

BTW - I assume the arm above is broken - with the bend in it? Did that happen on disassembly or was that the cause of the failure? If that's the cause - then putting the part of the arm that triggers the Hall sensors to signal column unlocked permanently in position in the sensors would seem to solve the problem. It might defeat the anti-theft, but at this point - who cares? Some JB-Weld might come to the rescue.

BTW - feel free to totally ignore the thoughts above - since I no longer own a 955 series, and I'm hoping the 958 series no longer has this potential time bomb lurking, I'm just throwing it out there as something to think about.