Just look how many prep their car for the track, thanks to John, BEnjamin and thier crew at Metropolitan detail my 997.2 is all-season ready. It is prepped to protect all the elements of nature. So far I have clear-bra'ed the entire painted portion of the car and tinted the windows with 35 %. The city where I live has no salting, as they use loose gravel for traction. However the major mountain passes will salt the roads although I heard washington state uses a chemical that is less corrosive. Although modern cars' undercoating is very good I still worry about corrosion especially since this vehicle will be a keeper.

This is my plan of action when I travel on the mountain passes in winter: Immediately upon return, I use a garden hose hooked to a garden sprinkler and move one feet every 3 minutes to give the undercarriage a thorough rinse to get any salt off. Although I can do this when I return to my garage, this is not possible when I go to Seattle and stay there overnight. My questions

1. What recommendations do people here have to keep the salf off after every drive.
2. I do know that salt is not good for the clearcoat of the paint but I have the clear-bra for that. Is it that critical to do wash off the salt on the undercarriage after every drive or is it probably okay to just wait until the end of the winter and do a deep undercarriage clean.
3. If so can you go over what it takes for a deep undercarriage clean. I will anyway be seeking detail John's help for this.
4. How abrasive is salt for the paint protection film ? Anyone has any thoughts on this ?

Thanks.

 

Road Salt
Although dry salt is inert 15 – 20.oF (9 – 29.oC) is considered the lower limit for salt to melt snow and ice but once H2O, even in the form of moist air (i.e. humidity) is added the freezing point is lowered and the sprayed brine solution (pH 8.5) used on roads will have an adverse effect (the formation of rust and/or corrosion) on the vehicles paint surfaces, PPF and undercarriage. When washing the vehicle ensure that all salt removed to avoid a brine solution remaining on the paint finish. Using a durable protection (Collinite Insulator Wax) will provide a sacrificial and renewable protection to the vehicles paint finish.
The salts (salt CI and water H2O produce oxides, which cause corrosion) used for freezing point depression in a sprayed brine solution (often mixed with grit / sand for tyre adhesion) commonly used are;

(a) Sodium chloride (NaCl) the most common salt used Sodium chloride (rock salt, halite) lowest practical temp: 15.oF (9°.C) keeps sidewalks dry, corrosive, damages to concrete and vegetation

(b) Calcium chloride (CaCl2) works at lower temperatures than sodium chloride. Lowest practical temp: 20.o F (29. °C) melts ice faster than sodium chloride, attracts moisture, surfaces slippery below

(c) Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) is the name for the chemical compounds and its various hydrates MgCl2 (H2O) x. These salts are typical ionic halides, being highly soluble in water. Melts ice faster than sodium chloride. Lowest practical temp: 5. °F (15°.C) attracts moisture

Magnesium chloride is very effective even at the lowest temperatures but also contains the most aggressive corrosives (especially on glass surfaces) and a sprayed brine solution, it is used to prevent snow / ice adhesion to the road surface. A number of state highway departments throughout the United States have decreased the use of rock salt and sand on roadways and have increased the use of solutions of magnesium chloride (often called "liquid magnesium chloride") as a de-icer. Magnesium chloride is much less toxic to plant life surrounding highways and airports, and is less corrosive to concrete and steel (and other iron alloys) than sodium chloride.

Anti-icing liquids, which according to State authorities, the liquid solution consists of - Magnesium chloride (MgCl2) Calcium chloride (CaCl2) and other liquids that work like anti-freeze, by lowering the freezing temperature of water and preventing ice from forming a strong bond to the road

Use a high pressure hose (Power wash) the wheel wells and undercarriage, and allow to dry. Spray the affected area (s) with Eastwoods Road Salt Neutralizer a high performance rust-preventive coating designed for application directly on rusted metal surfaces; apply thin coats and allow each coat to thoroughly dry

Undercarriage Cleaning & Care

Your vehicle’s undercarriage; it’s what you don't see that silently awaits underneath your cars. Removing sprayed brine solution to protect your undercarriage is just as important as detailing the paint. Wheel wells, sub-frame, springs, fender well and all of the other black and gray parts underneath the body need detailing too.
After removing dirt, road grime, and etc with P21S® High Performance Total Auto Wash or Optimum™ Polymer Technologies - Power Clean- use a pressure washer (Kärcher Model K5.93M) neutralise the effects of the alkaline sprayed brine solution on the suspension, wheel wells and the undercarriage (See also Road salt)
Never go underneath a car supported by the supplied jack - always use axle stands if you wish to work underneath the car.

Always jack the car up at the manufacturer's recommended jacking points. Ensure the jack is in stable contact with both the jacking point (see owner's manual) and the ground. Always work on level ground.

A spray coating of Chemical Guys - Bare Bones not only adds a durable long lasting shine, it also repels dirt but can also hide dirty spots and discoloration between parts, while enhancing any detail .It is possible to do this detail with the wheels on and just jacking the car up, but the ideal way is with the wheels off.

Metal parts use #0000 steel wool and Optimum Metal Polish and then apply a WOWO polymer sealant (Optimum Opti-Seal or Zaino Z-8 Grand Finale Spray Seal) for any rubber / vinyl parts spray with 1z einszett Tiefenpfleger -Vinyl-Rubber Care and Protectant.

 

Your preparation before the winter is key. All painted or glass surfaces should be washed, clayed, polished, and sealed with at least 2 coats of a strong sealant (Zaino Z2 or Z5 Pro).

Salt and road de-icing chemicals become inert when below 32*F. To remove with minimal effort, I believe this is where a foam gun is key. Rinse, foam, rinse, put away. The soapy foam will remove more than water alone. You can do this on all surfaces (paint, windows, wheels, wells, undercarriage, etc)

When I lived in the Northeast, I did not have a problem with my clear bra and the salt. No abnormal discoloration or adherence issues.

A deep undercarriage cleansing will require a lift, especially on a low car. From time to time, I will saturate the undercarriage with an all purpose cleaner, allow to dwell, rinse, and spray down with dressing.

 

I do not agree with using a pressure washer to wash off grime. The high pressure water will drive the salt or whatever deicer is used into every crevice and pore on the car. Not all crevices are designed to protect from high pressure water at any angle. For instance, you can get water into a car's cabin if you spray really hard upwards again the door window seals. Just one example, but that can happen with metal joints too.

Wash off the deicer with low pressure water. It works just as well.

 

Thank you for some excellent responses guys.

 

[Salt and road de-icing chemicals become inert when below 32*F.]

Not exactly true, although dry salt is inert, when you add moisture it become corrosive