Water spots on a clear bra - what to do?
#1
Water spots on a clear bra - what to do?
I've tried Plexus, nothing. I've machine polished it with a polish/wax, that took out the fine scratches, but the water spots remain. Should I carefully use a detail clay? Other suggestions?
#2
On clean cotton cloth try isopropyl alcohol. Do not rub in circles. Try just a small area first, and see how it goes. Having car sit in direct sunlight may help too.
If severe staining, if was on film for a long period, use just a very amount of lacquer thinner. I would wax after it removes the stains.
If severe staining, if was on film for a long period, use just a very amount of lacquer thinner. I would wax after it removes the stains.
#3
(PPF) Film Yellowing
The film itself is optically clear, most ‘yellowing ‘on clear film is caused by oils, road grime, diesel fumes and dirt from the road and other environmental contaminants staining the film, as opposed to ultra violet (UV-B) photosynthesis.
The exception to this is where a solvent or other chemical has been used on the film that causes a yellowing reaction with the polyurethane (Kerosene, Toluene, and Xylene) and some other solvents or propellants commonly used in many adhesive removers. Toluene can be used in small quantities without adverse effects, but in concentrate form if left on film and not neutralised right after use it will cause yellowing.
Plexus was developed for use on acrylic or polycarbonate windscreens...it works great for that, but it is not good for polyurethane. It tends to yellow, just take a look at the white nozzle after some time; it actually turns yellow. It also contains butane, which dries out the micro-pores of the urethane film
Toluene will degrade polymers, so do not use on headlights indicator lenses or urethane convertible rear. Also any products that are formulated with petroleum distillates (paraffin wax, etc.) will also cause yellowing
This usually happens when using a liquid wax product, which uses kerosene as a solvent for its carrier system or some bug and tar removers which contain the solvents already mentioned. If the contaminants are allowed to permeate too deep into the pores of the film, it can be difficult or impossible to remove.
Best prevention is to seal the film with a polyurethane safe sealant to slow down the absorption, and then clean it regularly with a purpose made cleaner.
The chemicals within some plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time. Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
Maintenance / Care
• Maintenance cleaning - mix a 1:20 solution of Optimum No Rinse (ONR) and distilled water. Put the solution in a fine mist trigger spray bottle. Use a 100% cotton medium nap micro fibre towel to avoid static between the urethane PPF and a polyester Microfiber
• Premier Protective Films - PF1 TT is an advanced agent that attacks the marks and transfers at the micro-level to loosen up these particles so that it may be safely wiped off with a clean micro fibre towel. Most importantly, it can be utilized on paint protection film with a clear coat safely. Simply clean the area in which it will be applied. Next spray on and in five seconds; begin wiping with a clean micro fibre towel. Repeat these steps as needed.
• Optimum Opti™ - Clean (Spay application) or PF1 Crystalline - wipe on, and wipe off (WOWO) walk away, no buffing, just allow to air dry. Use on paint, glass, wheels, plastic, clear bra, or trim for the protection, durability, slickness, and gloss. All surfaces are protected against potentially damaging exposure to sun or ultra-violet light with UV inhibitors.
The film itself is optically clear, most ‘yellowing ‘on clear film is caused by oils, road grime, diesel fumes and dirt from the road and other environmental contaminants staining the film, as opposed to ultra violet (UV-B) photosynthesis.
The exception to this is where a solvent or other chemical has been used on the film that causes a yellowing reaction with the polyurethane (Kerosene, Toluene, and Xylene) and some other solvents or propellants commonly used in many adhesive removers. Toluene can be used in small quantities without adverse effects, but in concentrate form if left on film and not neutralised right after use it will cause yellowing.
Plexus was developed for use on acrylic or polycarbonate windscreens...it works great for that, but it is not good for polyurethane. It tends to yellow, just take a look at the white nozzle after some time; it actually turns yellow. It also contains butane, which dries out the micro-pores of the urethane film
Toluene will degrade polymers, so do not use on headlights indicator lenses or urethane convertible rear. Also any products that are formulated with petroleum distillates (paraffin wax, etc.) will also cause yellowing
This usually happens when using a liquid wax product, which uses kerosene as a solvent for its carrier system or some bug and tar removers which contain the solvents already mentioned. If the contaminants are allowed to permeate too deep into the pores of the film, it can be difficult or impossible to remove.
Best prevention is to seal the film with a polyurethane safe sealant to slow down the absorption, and then clean it regularly with a purpose made cleaner.
The chemicals within some plastic cleaners can actually be harmful to the film if left on for an extended period of time. Certain propellants within aerosol canisters are responsible for excessively drying out the pores of the clear bra, which then leaves them open to the elements and yellowing.
Maintenance / Care
• Maintenance cleaning - mix a 1:20 solution of Optimum No Rinse (ONR) and distilled water. Put the solution in a fine mist trigger spray bottle. Use a 100% cotton medium nap micro fibre towel to avoid static between the urethane PPF and a polyester Microfiber
• Premier Protective Films - PF1 TT is an advanced agent that attacks the marks and transfers at the micro-level to loosen up these particles so that it may be safely wiped off with a clean micro fibre towel. Most importantly, it can be utilized on paint protection film with a clear coat safely. Simply clean the area in which it will be applied. Next spray on and in five seconds; begin wiping with a clean micro fibre towel. Repeat these steps as needed.
• Optimum Opti™ - Clean (Spay application) or PF1 Crystalline - wipe on, and wipe off (WOWO) walk away, no buffing, just allow to air dry. Use on paint, glass, wheels, plastic, clear bra, or trim for the protection, durability, slickness, and gloss. All surfaces are protected against potentially damaging exposure to sun or ultra-violet light with UV inhibitors.
#4
First question...what brand of film is it and how old?
#5
Good question. The bra is about 4 years old, done when the car was new. It is custom cut, so it is not a mask bra. It unfortunately has some scratches too, but I view the cost and risk of removing it and replacing it greater than the potential reward. (Will probably have the car another year or so and I'm not going to spend $1500 to have the whole front end covered. The car is basalt black, so yellowing would not be as apparent add with other colors. Thanks much for the feedback. If there is a particular polish or chemical I should use, please let me know where I can buy it!
Oh, I've heard of the evils of plexus, I've used it only once.
Oh, I've heard of the evils of plexus, I've used it only once.
#6
To remove light surface scratches use Menzerna Super Finish SF4500 and Lake County (LC) Mfg. Black Finishing foam pad (70 PPI) at speed # 3-4, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning or smudging of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the edge.
#7
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#11
Good question. The bra is about 4 years old, done when the car was new. It is custom cut, so it is not a mask bra. It unfortunately has some scratches too, but I view the cost and risk of removing it and replacing it greater than the potential reward. (Will probably have the car another year or so and I'm not going to spend $1500 to have the whole front end covered. The car is basalt black, so yellowing would not be as apparent add with other colors. Thanks much for the feedback. If there is a particular polish or chemical I should use, please let me know where I can buy it!
Oh, I've heard of the evils of plexus, I've used it only once.
Oh, I've heard of the evils of plexus, I've used it only once.
Can you take photos and post?
#14
To remove light surface scratches use Menzerna Super Finish SF4500 and Lake County (LC) Mfg. Black Finishing foam pad (70 PPI) at speed # 3-4, do not use any downward machine pressure and maintain a fast linear motion. It is important not to apply a lot of pressure to the film as this may lead to burning or smudging of the surface. Use a Q-tip and some isopropyl alcohol to clean out the edge.
I have 3M clear film on the top of the rear bumper of my wife's MB E350 wagon, and after I wash the car and dry it, I often get water spots that roll down and sit on top of the rear bumper. If I don't catch them before they dry, they leave spots (sometimes worse than other times), and we have rather hard water (despite running through 2 whole-house filters).
I have the products you describe on my shelf and a Porter Cable 7424, so would this work on the water spots that I get?
#15
Optimum MDR (Mineral Deposit Remover) is a high tech gel to remove stubborn water marks from paint, glass, and other exterior surfaces.
Place a quarter sized dot on a clean, damp micro fibre cloth, using light -medium downward pressure; do not scrub. Flush rinse with clean water or use ONR
Place a quarter sized dot on a clean, damp micro fibre cloth, using light -medium downward pressure; do not scrub. Flush rinse with clean water or use ONR
Last edited by TOGWT; 04-26-2016 at 04:23 AM.
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