Quote:
Originally Posted by The Turbo
Evidently a hell of a lot more than yours.
Explain to us the merits of fluid with regards to PCCB longevity.........
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You mentioned the stupidity to have a conversation about PCCB, but not to a lot of people here may see PCCB as a stupid topic. There are Porsche owners not running PCCB and considering them for their future Porsches. There are concerns about track use, but we have been gaining experience on their features, strengths, weaknesses, running them at the track.
Boiling brake fluid leads to inconsistent piston brake pressure under braking. Once the fluid is boiling, not only the brake pedal becomes soft, this is just a symptom, the brake pads don't release from the rotors as normal, heating up the brake pads more than usual and this is the problem.
The problem is not the brake fluid boiling itself, it is the excessive heat gained by the brake pads once we get on these conditions, and then the brake pads falling apart.
PCCB rotors run at higher temperatures than cast iron rotors, at extremely high temperatures, the brake pads start falling apart, they crack and release chunks of material. On cast iron rotors this is not a problem, you're just carving grooves on the rotors, on PCCB you will wear the coat on the surface eventually releasing chunks of PCCB material. This happened to me with RS19 and stock Yellow or Black P90 stock Porsche pads.
I have been told to use the P50 Green MotorSport pad from Pagid specifically designed for PCCB, I have yet to try it.
My front PCCB rotors are due for replacement, due to these chunks. The second owner ran them at the track without checking brake pads conditions, and eventually wore out the surface coat. The rear ones are fine. The rotors have 5+ years of combined track/autoX/street use and close to 40,000 miles. These are Generation I rotors.
Generation II rotors are stronger, as seen recently on retired Porsche Driving Experience PCCB from 997 and 10,000 track miles from different drivers.
To ensure PCCB longevity:
- change pads if there are chunks or big cracks
- avoid getting on the ABS
- Use a cool down lap
- For 996 cars, install larger brake ducts, and make an opening on the front fender liners
- Replace pads when they're beyond 50% of material left
- Use a race brake fluid. If you don't flush the brakes at every track day, use Castrol SRF as it has the highest wet boiling point