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Alright all. I suck at taking low light photos, so this is the best I could do. You get a LED in the front trunk. There are the two that are overhead in addition to the switchable dome lights. The lights in the foot wells are only on when you first get in the car. The lights in the trays in the door under the speaker and in the closable compartment stay on while in motion. You can only see them if you put your hand into that area. I didn't get a photo buy you also get lights above the speaker grills in the rear. There is no rear foot well lighting or any other rear lighting. In my opinion SAVE YOUR $500 BUCKS!
Money, I recognize it takes a lot of time and effort to make your detailed posts. I for one appreciate your efforts.
Thanks man! We chose to move closer to my office about two years ago into a primarily retiree area. The only problem is that most all of my friends live about an hour away, so playing with my cars is my main hobby.
I was gonna say...arent you a little young to be living in the villages?
Yeah, we are the one of the very few young families that live around here. I'm in Wealth Management, so I decided to be where the money is. Young people typically don't have much.
Money: Great thread, enjoyed the read/pics and tutorials.
Well done/love your enthusiasm/great stuff!
Now, how about a tutorial on how to remove the stock center silencer and add a bypass?
Best/Cheers,
B
I'm working on it. I just can't decide what to do, iPE or Sharkwerks bypass. I called AWE and begged them to come up with a solution that makes the exhaust sound the same at low RPMs as high. I'm going to disconnect the vacuum lines this weekend to see what happens.
I'm working on it. I just can't decide what to do, iPE or Sharkwerks bypass. I called AWE and begged them to come up with a solution that makes the exhaust sound the same at low RPMs as high. I'm going to disconnect the vacuum lines this weekend to see what happens.
^^^ subscribed, and I'm all in. It appears you and I are looking for the same sound, even at idle...
Tks/Looking forward to your outcome. I'm sure I'll follow your lead.
If you aren't familiar, the exhaust on the GT3 is different than other 911s. When you press the Sport Exhaust button, it really doesn't change the sound much below about 4,000 RPMs. So the car sounds really pedestrian while driving around town and opens up above that.
In my constant need to mess with stuff, I decided to disconnect the valves to see what the car would sound like. It took all of about five minutes to jack the car up and pull the rubber hoses off. With the lines disconnected, the valves are in an always open mode regardless of throttle input. The downside is that the Sport Exhaust button doesn't work any longer.
Being the hooligan that I am, I want more aggression at normal operating RPMs. Also it annoys me that the valves are opening and closing all of the time. I want to be able to open them or close them when I push the button.
So after disconnecting the valves to force them open all of the time, I know why Porsche has created the valve system this way. There is just enough drone at lower RPMs to be annoying. It sounds good, but there is a tad too much drone for my liking.
I'm still hoping someone comes out with a valved solution that allows the Sport Exhaust button to fully open or fully close the valves. iPE allows you to do this, but you need to use a separate key fob. For the time being, I'm going to reconnect the lines and get the Sharkwerks bypass.
This is a pretty easy job. Rather than messing with the electrical system and use a mirror tap, it's just as easy to run the wire through the headliner and down to the fusebox. I figure it's safer than getting into an argument with the dealer should I have an electrical problem.
I bought my Passport Max from Best Radar. If you want to learn anything about radar/laser, give these guys a call. They are the experts and have the best prices I've found. I asked them if I should wait and get the Passport Max 2, and they said it's not worth it unless you are doing Escort Live. They don't recommend spending the money every month for Live.
I'm transplanting my Blend Mount from my C2S. These things are like $130, but I love them. It's much better than sticking a suction cup to the window. Just call Blendmount to ask them which model. I have it somewhere in my C2S Journal if you want to search for it.
I ran over to Advance Auto to get an "Add-a-Circuit. There are two sizes. You need the larger size and a couple of fuses. You'll also need a hardwire kit. I had a V1 Kit laying around, so I used it. The V1 kit works on an Escort just the same. It's $19. You need a Direct Wire Power Kit. You could also get and Escort kit or ask Best Radar to include one with you Radar Detector.
Sorry for the iPhone Photos. My wife had the cameras that day.
You don't need to do this step, but I like to run the wire down through the mirror stem for a cleaner install. It's super easy but might make you nervous. You have to pull hard on the plastic to break it loose.
First pull the top piece off. It splits in two. I just put my fingers under the rubber near the headliner and pull.
This is how I pull the stem cover off. Get two pick tools and pull in opposite directions. There are little holes to stick the picks into.
Here is what it looks like opened up. Next I pull the plastic wire cover off so I can get the RJ11 phone line cleanly down from the headliner to the bottom of the stem.
Find the right amount of slack and reinstall the stem cover. I pinched the wire between the two pieces.
Sorry for the crappy photo. Pry the A-Pillar cover loose. You don't need to take it all the way off. Just pop the top near the headliner loose to get the wire over the the rubber trim.
I didn't want to pull the fuse cover box off the car because I broke the very fragile clips in my C2S.
I got the wire though without taking the cover off. Well, I didn't have anywhere to ground it. So I gently fulled the cover off and broke the tab I was trying to save. Oh well. This time I only broke one tab. Last time I broke two.
Zip tie the extra wire and tuck it in nicely for a clean install.
This isn't a perfect solution, but I think it looks better than the really loud looking stickers on the visors. Under certain light conditions you can still see the outline of the sticker. It's acceptable to me and I'm picky.
Get some IPA. I went to the store to get closer to 99%, but they didn't have it. So that means, I added a solid hour to my rubbing. Oh well, the job still got done.
10-20-2014, 06:38 PM
