Dashclock added to my Panamera 4
#33
Ready
Hey
So far i got:
1. Autometer clock
2. LED dimmer
3. Add a circuit wires
4. Solar power lights (for the steel ring). Looks kinda flimsy though...
I ordered the dash cover and was supposed to get it today, so when i called, dealer says out of stock and needs to order from germany!
What?!?!
ETA is Nov 24.
So far i got:
1. Autometer clock
2. LED dimmer
3. Add a circuit wires
4. Solar power lights (for the steel ring). Looks kinda flimsy though...
I ordered the dash cover and was supposed to get it today, so when i called, dealer says out of stock and needs to order from germany!
What?!?!
ETA is Nov 24.
#36
Just curious. I see that everyone used an 2 1/16" Automated Gauge, weather stripping and a ring of some soft to fit the gauge. Why didn't anyone use an AutoMeter 3585 gauge that is 2 5/8". From my measurements the hole size of the cover should accommodate this gauge, or am I totally wrong??
#37
I used Autometer 3685 because it has through-the-dial LED backlighting with glowing red pointers, this is the closest match to the factory gauges. The 3585 has perimeter lighting and I am not sure if it has glowing pointers. The 3685 is a newer and improved version of the 3585.
#39
I was wondering if anyone could assist.. I have a 2011 Pan S. I tapped into the 24 and 44 fuse but no power to the clock (3685). I grounded the unit to the dash bolt inside the fuse panel cover. I have a couple questions:
1) Where did you guys ground your clock?
2) In fuse 44, did you have the white or red wire from the clock?
3) In fuse 34, which wire was used?
I test the clock after it was in and it works, but not when I use the fuse panel.
For both, I took out the existing fuse and put in back into the add-a-circuit. Thanks in advance for you help.
1) Where did you guys ground your clock?
2) In fuse 44, did you have the white or red wire from the clock?
3) In fuse 34, which wire was used?
I test the clock after it was in and it works, but not when I use the fuse panel.
For both, I took out the existing fuse and put in back into the add-a-circuit. Thanks in advance for you help.
#40
Connect red wire to fuse 44 which is always hot to power the clock.
Connect white wire to fuse 24 which is linked to ignition to power the backlight.
See pic for ground connection, just use one of the existing holes.
Connect white wire to fuse 24 which is linked to ignition to power the backlight.
See pic for ground connection, just use one of the existing holes.
#41
I think I know what your problem is. If your fuse slot has an existing fuse, you need to add another fuse to the add-a-circuit. Because the circuit you added needs its own fuse, I think the clock manual calls for an one amp fuse. Please look at the add-a-circuit connector, you will see that it accepts 2 fuses, one for the original circuit, the other for the newly added circuit. If you are adding to an empty fuse slot, you only need to add a fuse to power the new circuit. Hope I am not confusing you.
#42
Thanks for the info and quick update... I think your right.. I only used the one fuse in the slot. I will try to add the second fuse in a couple days when I get a chance and update.
Also, I have posted a picture of my mod.. Essentially, I used the Automated 3685 and instead of the silver housing, I used a 2 5/8" OD Mechanical Value couple gasket from Home depot. This fit snugly into the OEM cover. The Inside diameter was 2" and was snug. I took a Dremmel tool and an 80 girl tip and hallowed it out a little. This allowed me to, if I ever need to, remove the clock from the housing without removing the cover and vents......
#44
So I was able to get it to work. For my car, I had one fuse into fuse slot 44 as shown, but instead of Slot 24, I had to plug it into 27 (ignition) and add the second fuse as recommended . Works perfect and was definitely one of the best aesthetic mods . Thanks for the post and answering the questions