I was starting the car two days ago and the car gave me the lossing hydraulic steering warning, then i restart the car, she then gave me steering support limted warning instead. Then i immediatey drive the car to the dealer and on my way, there were more warning came up on the dash, dsc+tc loss, brake fluid dist. warning, , pdk fault lossing R gear, fault of headlamp control system which comes up once in a while.

The dealer looked into the car and said the battery current is not stable and causing some of the system not working. They claimed that some of the system draws a lot of current. The car is 2 years old and 6000km, and the battery already not good? I had my c2s for 4 years never change my battery. They said becoz the GT3 was not driving often and the battery always low in charge which causes and the battery performance to deteriorate quick. Is that true? I dun really buy that, and now they changed the battery as my own cost but there are some other warning coming up. Now they tell me they need to further look into the problem.

Anybody experience this before? I dun want to pay for the new battery cause i dun think the problem is battery related but they changed it already, how should i argue this with the dealer? Hope i can get some input here

 

Always trickle the GT3. It's standard practice.

go buy a new battery and buy a trickle charger at the same time.

 

The problem is they changed my battery and the warnings are still there.

 

A low battery does make the system go haywire and mileage doesn't matter. If the car doesn't get driven then the battery will draw itself faster then it can recharge.

You might have other more serious issues if the dealer replaced the battery and did a reset and you're still getting those lights.

 

Did they drive the car around after changing the battery? you have to drive 3 or 4 miles for the car to recognize the faults have been fixed and they should reset. And +1 for trickle charges on all 911's

 

They changed the battery cause they claimed the voltage of the battery is not stable. After battery change they tell me there is still warning and tell me they need to look into that. Then they said they need to update the software for the new battery and then its all okay. Today, the car break down on me again, i got like 9 warnings and i have to get the car tow back to the dealer. Now, is it still the battery? Or it is still the software......

 

 

These cars can be hard on batteries. My experience with my 2002 Boxster is it is a very battery friendly car. Spoiled me. However, my 996 Turbo requires regular use and considerable use -- I take it to work several times a week which is a 60 mile round trip -- to keep the battery topped up. A battery charger is not an option as I have no where to plug one in.

As an aside it is important when you park the car you are sure there are no parasitic electrical loads. Disconnect any phone charger or anything you have plugged into the car. I disconnect my NAV unit and my radar detector power cords when I park my cars. And I always lock the car. This puts the car's electrical system into its lowest power state sooner than if you leave the car unlocked.

It is important if you can't trickle charge the battery to when you start the engine you should drive the car some times, 15 to 20 minutes (possibly more if at night with the lights on or at any time with the A/C on) to give the battery time to be recharged, to have replaced what charge is has lost over time and what charge it used up at the engine start.

Now even if you do all of the above the battery can fail prematurely.

However, there is another consideration. While less common the alternator can fail to produce enough electricity to keep the battery charged. What can happen -- what I've seen in the service bay in fact -- is a car (Pamamera in this case) starts just fine and idles just fine but after a few minutes the engine starts to act up and run poorly. Warning lights appear on the dash. The engine finally dies. The tech turns off the key and waits. Some minutes later he turns the key on and the engine starts and runs just fine but the whole going downhill happens again.

The alternator starts out putting out sufficient electrical power but soon stops and the car is running on battery power alone. The battery -- and it has to be a good battery to begin with -- can only supply sufficient power for a short time before its voltage level drops below the level at which the engine can continue to run.

It reads like what your car needs is to have the alternator checked to make sure it is producing enough power to meet the electrical needs of the engine/car and to supply enough power to recharge the battery.

At the same time all the battery/alternator wiring/connections should be checked to make sure a marginal connection is not a problem.

 

Thanks Macster for you info..

Dealer told me generator is no problem and they have to go through the wires and see what went wrong.

And today the dealer said they fixed the problem and told me there was a code from the rear steering sensor that cause all the warning. They re-caliber the steering wheel control unit and reprogram the module and the car is good to go. I really have no idea whether it is the real reason that trigger all the warnings or the dealer just clear all the fault and reset the computer and give me back the car.