Got a brand new hose, new clamp and it still blew off on my second run yesterday. I am including some pictures of the event. I got lined up first so that I could get the benefit of track prep and ran first against this Camaro SS with a Corvette engine and Mickeys and a new suspension. He was hoping to run 10.8 and 130. Maybe he did later but I didn't get to stay around. Both runs were on pump gas and that launch is off a completely prepped surface but unfortunately it was already 83 by the time we ran. The AP wouldn't start logging but I took Vbox of it which of course doesn't agree at all and it's worse than my first run at the county road, a lot worse. It shows slower trap and better ET than the track system. I don't know what to think about this car other than it's not a very good car and it isn't likely to get any better. The fronts were at 33 and rears at 39. Now granted this was pump gas and it was warm but the car was the first down a well prepped track. I should add, I also brake boosted and spun the tires before lining up, no help there as you can see.

On the second run, a bunch of dragstrers ran in front of us and put lot's of rubber on the track but I got massive spin off the line and something blew out at about 90mph. The car over revved and failed to shift. I had to back off. I decided after that to call it a day in complete disgust. I had no idea what happened but knew it would be a waste of time to run anymore. On the way home a coolant warning came on saying take the car to the shop. I drove home because the temp was fine on both oil and gas but I had no boost so I figured the hose slipped again. I could hear the air sucking in when I accelerated.

So sure enough, I took off the fan shroud and the hose was slipped but the clamp was rock tight. Anyway, I used the AP to read the codes and there were tons of them. There was a PDK code a bunch of DME codes and some 0x753 sytem code that apparently the AP doesn't understand. I cleared the codes by using the Reset ECU and relearn feature. Then I just let the car cool overnight. This morning I got in there and tried to reseat the hose and reset the clamp. I don't think it worked. The hose is impossible to get all the way up to the base of the IPD plenum all the way arond but I got it a lot closer. I tightened the clamp down and took the car out. It seemed to accelerate well up to about 70 but on a 30 to 90 run I felt it lose power and on a start from 0 to 84 it felt slow. I read the codes when I got back home and I still had this 0099 under DME which is decoded as Turbo Underboost. That one was on there yesterday.


Does anyone have any experience with these codes? On my PDK the code was

P199A

Under DME

P1373
valve lift control above limit value
P1647
P0299
Turbo Underboost
P1433

0x753
P1802

These were the many codes listed after I got home. Now all I have is the under boost. Something went bad wrong on that second run, you can see it in the slip and the Vbox.

ETA:

Actually I felt on the first run the car was losing power at about 126mph right near the end of the run and it looks like that is where the hose probably came loose. Unfortunately because the AP wouldn't log to start with because I screwed up, I can't see the MAP readings. However, in the second run they were 25 max and of course on the CR runs I was getting as high as 42 so clearly I lost boost before that run started. I also don't have the hose on completely now if I am still getting the Turbo Underboost code, either that or something else much worse happened.

 

Really sorry to see you having issues with that William. More important than it being very tight is that it's completely dry and seated properly before tightened. After a thread or to a couple years ago this problem seems to have gone away with this advice.

 

Does the pipe have a bead rolled end?

 

It's the relative motion that is the problem. They did a good job of getting it flush and cleaning both surfaces. Here are the pics they took after they finished working on it. The problem is that it blew out at the track without any race gas, I was not using PDCC so the car sits down more and there is more relative motion between the engine and the Ypipes and car body. I had a number of runs at the county road that weren't a problem for it and it was hot. I think the traction at the track did it but still, the car didn't cut a good 60ft even though they had just coated and dragged the track before I ran and I spun the tires. I don't understand this car.

 

Maybe a little more slack on the other ends would help. Jason and the guys really do a good job out there I agree. I would be glad to get on the phone about him and share ideas and explain what we do anytime.

 

I worked some more on the hose this afternoon in good light and I think I got it snug all the way around and then I secured the clamp very tightly. The car has two DME codes that persist

P1647 or P1847, hard to read and the P0299 which is Turbo Underboost. I took the car out for another run and ran it straight up to 90mph which took 8.7 seconds, that was from 9 to 87. MAP never exceeded 30psi. Something else is wrong. I am going to have to take it in to see what failed.

 

As of this afternoon it's back in the shop. They are going to look at some better mechanisms for holding it all together. I also think there might be a leak on one of the Ypipe connections because I can still hear some air sucking even though I am certain I did a good job getting the throttle body hose back on yesterday. I know some people here did have problems with the ypipe connections in the past but I didn't have them the first time they were installed. However, the Ypipe connections to the ICs were redone in this turbo exchange so maybe one of them didn't hold. I certainly hope this is a simple fix. I am really looking forward to heading out to the county road in some 60 degree weather.

 

Sorry to hear William...hope you get it worked out soon.

If it makes you feel any better, many people go through issues like this. In fact many of the cars and owners that post here will only post their glory runs and leave out all the details about the problems and issues they experienced along the way and I have seen it with my own eyes...cars that are trailered to an event, worked on constantly by a professional shop, run ****ty times, get fixed enough for a couple clean runs... perhaps do something like turn off timing correction....and them BAM one or two bad *** runs or fast 1/2 mile passes. And guess what gets posted?

The difference is that you don't have the level of support to attend events with you. You actually drive to and from the event with no shop / tuner there helping you. Do you think the cars that break the records do this with no support in attendance? Very likely no. A shop and tuner there could have tightened your clamp (I've see a shop do this very thing for another 6speed poster who dipped into the 9's), logged your runs, changed the tune, and helped you with a glory run pass. For some people this is all it is about. If you are like me, that is not success. Success to me is a strong car that performs consistently and reliably, so that if you want, you can drive to and from an event without worrying about anything.

Thank you for posting. There are very few on this forum that post when things don't always work out. Others that come to mind besides you and I are Mark Blackwell, Scott and a couple others. They will post the good and the bad. That is what ultimately helps people on this forum. Many other only post to support their cause - likely to promote a tuner/shop that has provided them free sh*t/service. Many of these people/cars come and go.

I'm glad you decided to keep your car and mod it up....and once it's running correctly and you have the right combo of mods/tires there isn't anything close to the price range that can touch it from a performance standpoint.

Again, best of luck with getting it 100% Keep us posted.

 

Hey, thanks for the encouragement Adam. I am going to keep trying. I would like with the new turbos to be able to do on pump gas what I used to do on race gas but with sub 10.5 ET. Everyone is prone to hoping for more than what they get I think. That guy in the Camaro was hoping for more than he got but maybe he needs some more tinkering too.

You are right, I want a nice tight car that isn't on a razors edge to get the performance. I want to be able to know what I can do in general. Sometime a magical set of circumstances can occur and you get a really good number that you can't repeat. So far that hasn't happened for me. I can repeat with the right conditions, the 10.57 number, but I just would like to see it about .2-.3 less and mayb up around 138 or 139 with some race gas.

Tell ya what though, even slow, the car sounds bad *** with the Klines and no cats. The new turbos sound really good too when they spool. Now we just need to get it all sealed up and away we go. I also need to get some cooler weather, it's 84 out here today and it was that hot on the first run Saturday. This is January and I am not in SoCal. Thursday and Friday will be cooler and maybe the car will be back. I will be sure to report what I find out.

 

Hang in there William. Amen Adam. Especially when we all get to help each other out and have fun! The shop is great and the effort was there. Just a string of crap luck but we can all work together and get that girl solid. I think it's a matter of orientation/alignment as there are so many out there that are sealed up great with an IPD Y Pipe including Adam on his 997 beast. My lines are always open bud. We need to get a good pressure test on her before putting the bumper back on.

 

100% on what LB said.

The tb to ypipe hose is a chronic issues for all 997 and 991 cars when you run bigger boost. I have seen tons of them fly off and spent countless hours on my own car trying to find a solution. Srm plenum on my car with good thin clamps.

 

Update.

I spoke to the shop at closing yesterday. They looked into all the codes and are focusing on the underboost. They said I did a great job putting the throttle body hose back on and so they are going to be taking off the bumper and looking at the rest of the boost charging system. I imagine that includes the ypipe to IC connections.

They also said the P1647 is related to the secondary cooling pump and it seems to be transitory but that one did come back on for me so they will have to look into it further once they isolate the boost leak. It's not the throttle body hose though. The good news is they have a full day to work on my car and hopefully can fix it today and I get it back in time to use it at the county road in the cooler weather coming to us the next few days. It's predicted to be sunny with highs in the 60s on Thursday and Friday which is perfect county road weather.

I compared the two first runs side by side. The one from the County Road and the one from the drag strip. The SAR run was actually faster and similar ET at 1/8 mile but by 1000 feet the car was behind. It's easy to see that something happened to the car becuase the comparison of the acceleration curves after 9s shows that at the drag strip the car only got to 130 by the 12s mark while at the county road it hit 140.

 

Pressure test William!

For the record nothing beats a Wiggins connection I agree. However there are literally hundreds of cars running out there just from me with no issues using IPD even up to 30psi. A few times guys have struggled but with some attention the issues were resolved after cleaning the connection or re installing. It won't be an option for all to weld that up and a lot is in the way. Shouldn't be necessary.

 

So the shop got back with me and the drivers side diverter valve has failed or is failing. That explains the loss of boost pressure. Sam has two Forge diverter valves on the way to the shop and they should arrive in the morning. They are going to replace them and pressure test the charge system for 42 psi. They had only tested between 30 and 32 pounds before because they weren't sure how much boost was being put out with the upgrades and the maps.

So hopefully the diverter valve was the main problem. I actually don't think the throttle body hose was the problem because I never heard it sucking loudly as it has in the past. It was offset but that hose clamp was still like an alligator. Anyway, Sam has suggested a specific sequence of operations when putting the hoses, ICs and Ypipe back together that will hopefully put all slack that is in the connections more toward the ypipe to throttle body connection. That way when the rear end of the car sits down on a dig launch at high g force, there is more room for flex at that connection and there is no loss of integrity in the pressure seal of the charging system.

The good news is that this is a part that fails with age and use and could be susceptible to the higher boost pressures so we are going with a better than OEM replacement. Not a high cost item anyway. Keeping my fingers crossed for a good resolution tomorrow.

 

DV's on the way and I am here if you need me for anything else. Good luck bud!

30 PSI test is fine. You read 42 on there because it's counting atmospheric pressure in that #.