Anyone interested in Nitrous Oxide in Tri-State area?

We are thinking of setting up a Nitrous Oxide (N2O) refilling station depending on interest or needs of the public to compliment our tuning operation. We tune all VAG products and more with GIAC on our AWD Mustang Dyno.

Here are some of the reasons we think N2O is a great option:
N20 offers you more performance per $ spent, than any other performance modification.
N20 installations are relatively easy to accomplish.
Since N20 is used only when needed, it offers you the advantages of complete drivability and normal gas mileage while not "on the button."
Complete programable systems are now available.
Systems are available for virtually any power needed from 5 HP to over 500 extra HP.
Systems can easily be removed or transferred to another vehicle unlike conventional tuning parts.

We will stock all the common Nitrous Oxide systems and controllers from NOS to ZEX as well as the gas depending on the responses to this poll.

 

Do you have any pics?

 

You may visit our site but i dont have pictures of the filling station up yet.

 

It is like crack, cheap and highly addictive. You dont think you have a problem and do more and more. Then disaster strikes.

 

That is why you have a competent shop both install AND tune it accordingly. Also, the DRY system should only be used on carbureted cars where the extra volume of air is met with calibrated fuel from the carb, the WET system is what should be used (although it rarely is) on EFI systems. If its not tuned it may blow up. Simple as that.

 

Not knowing anything about it I did witness a nitrous explosion that took the hood off the car and sent parts flying (this was a big block and I can only imagine what it would do to a Porsche engine). With that being said and never wanting to lose 20K that way plus the back of my car I am curious about the performance it puts out on the low end. If a turbo kicks in at 4500 RPM it seems that all of the power is going to come alive at speeds that will get us thrown in jail these days. I am wondering if nitrous kicks in earlier or is more controllable so it makes it just that more fun getting onto the highway before you see the first black and white (California)? Can a system be set up so the car is very quick from first thru forth and then settle in fifth and sixth?

 

That statement right there confirms exactly what I suspectd after reading the initial post. You know nothing about nitrous and how to use it safely. its as simple as that. do the world a favor and stay away from it

 

Yes sir, no nitrous! All of a sudden the monikor "Fear" conjures up a new perception of this individual. Even though I am suprised to see a response at this level I will keep my rebuttle respectful. Isn't this an informative site for people to gain knoweldge and share interests? I certainly think that I am a person that is never to old to learn and I think you would be surprised by what I have achieved in life by not listening to advice like this. Do me a favor when you close the doors around you be sure to lock yourself in.

 

you talking to me or him?

 

Nitrous cannot blow up. It is not an explosive. It is an oxidizer as in oxygen. It uses the Oxygen molecule combined with fuel. It must have enough fuel so as to not become so hot as to burn holes into things like your pistons.

Fuel is what makes power. The idea behind nitrous is you can add more fuel to the enriched oxygen molecules in the cylinder to produce more power.

Of course the parts must be designed to handles the power you are adding. In addition, nitrous is a drying agent. It will dry out the oil on your rings and liners, which produces more heat. In addition to stronger parts you need to do things like anodize your ring lands to keep them from fusing to your rings. You also need to coat your piston domes (ceramic), skirts (friction) and exhaust ports (exhaust ports). Your liner squirters should be enlarged to provide more oil to your liners to prevent them from drying out along with heating up.

 

So, we at Hudson Historics have been using NOS and installing it successfully for many years now and we are now open to the general public. And ALL of you have most of the fact right. NOS in of itself will not explode an engine, however many factors can contribute to the demise of an engine including (most common) installation/tuning errors, expecting too much of a stock engine, improper use.

The days of the system turning on like a light switch are over. No more is it all or nothing. There have been major advances in metering technology, even computer controlled progressive deployment that allows it to be properly tuned as it should have been from day one. These tools and a chassis dyno will make for a highly reliable system that cannot destroy an engine. Really, it should be installed, tested, verified by a competent tuner that has the knowledge of that particular engine and how far it can be pushed before all %@*) breaks loose. It even helps to have intimate knowledge of different "personalities" of a specific engine. Example, does the intake path allow fuel to puddle or collect, how much distance is their from a MAF to butterfly and which path does the air take, where to install the injector(s). It may get quite complex on forced air engines.

One thing really nice about the modern tunable systems is that the optimum settings can be "snuck up on" safely getting you the max performance and safest operation..

 

YOUR WORDS:

the DRY system should only be used on carbureted cars where the extra volume of air is met with calibrated fuel from the carb, the WET system is what should be used (although it rarely is) on EFI systems. If its not tuned it may blow up.

THATS IS JUST WRONG, LIKE 2 PLUS 2 EQUALS 17 WRONG. IF YOU HAD ANY CLUE HOW A CARBURETOR OR NITROUS FOR THAT MATTER YOU WOULD KNOW THAT. I HAVE BEEN USING, SELLING, INSTALLING AND TUNING NITROUS FOR 15 YEARS, AND I HAVE NEVER SEEN A DRY KIT FOR A CARB'D MOTOR, BESIDE A SMALL SNEAKY PETE KIT. YOU CANT ADD THE FUEL THAT WAY. ITS IMPOSSIBLE.

AND IF YOU WERE TRULY A "TUNER" YOU WOULD KNOW THAT PROBABLY THE SAFEST WAY TO USE A KIT IS DRY, USING THE COMPUTER TO ADD THE FUEL. LET ME GIVE YOU A TIP, YOU SET A SEPARATE FUEL TABLE AND TIMING MAP THAT ONLY TAKES EFFECT AFTER A PRE DETERMINED AIR INTAKE TEMP IS TRIGGERED, ONE THAT CAN INLY BE TRIGGERED BY NITROUS FLOW. GUYS ARE GOING 8'S IN STREET CARS LIKE THIS AND GETTING YEARS BETWEEN TEARDOWNS. NORMALLY I JUST LET PEOPLE BE PEOPLE AND DO DUMB THINGS, BUT TRYING TO COME ON HERE AND REPRESENT YOURSELF AS A PROFESSIONAL WHO IS GOING TO INSTALL AND TUNE NITROUS ON PEOPLES CARS JUST ISNT COOL.

 

Sorry you feel this way. I'm sure you know from experience what you're talking about. I have mentored under one of the developers at NOS the Holley company. This is their position in addition to mine. Read a book if you have to.

Just because people get results a certain way doesn't make it the right way. You can make a bomb with improvised devices that kill people, but that's hardly a sophisticated, technologically advanced way to perform that SAME action.

 

holley bought nos from thermos, they didnt develop crap number 1, and this still doesnt change the fact that there is no such thing as a dry kit for a carb'd motor. you show me one and i'll shut up.

in general a wet kit is safer, if you are installing out of the box, but if you have the skill, and the means, a custom set up dry kit is safer, much less parts to fail.

all these nitrous controllers you like, flutter solenoids, thats how they work. and they cause major failures, the life of the solenoid is cut significantly, and i dont need to tell you what happens when a nitrous solenoid sticks open or a fuel one fails to open.

 

I'm interested, but you can't run nitrous here on the street. They actually made a law to prevent it.