anyone else experience this? im just hoping its the 38 degree cold weather affecting it as its never happened before but in second gear i dont boost right. it starts to stumble and only boosts around .4-.5 but once i shift to third it goes back up to .6-.7.

ive never had this happen before and the temp suddenly dropped 20 degrees here literally over night. any suggestions on what might be causing it?

 

could be a boost leak or the maf. sDo you have any codes? the temp should make it run stronger.

 

Nope... not a single code was being thrown at me... so i was a bit clueless.. i guess ill try it out again today. it wasnt consistant. it happened two of the 10 times i did a sprint down the street.

 

The MAF will not necessarily display a fault and it will not necessarily show anything but slightly rich when hooked up to the computer.

When my MAF went, it would stumble and sputter, and then take off as the RPM increased. It acted like the plugs were fouling.

So I purchased a new MAF off E-Gay. Once installed (5-minute ordeal) the care runs like new.

If the MAF needs replaced, be sure to get the connection installed correctly or you will end up seeing a PSM\ABS failure displayed.

 

went for another run today and didnt notice anything... maybe the car just wasnt warmed up all the way.

 

so i narrowed it down to just.... third gear. third gear is the only gear at WOT that im getting .5 and every other gear im getting a solid .6/.7

any ideas?

 

When was the last time you changed plugs? Which plugs are you running?

 

im guessing the last time the plugs were changed were about 10,000 miles ago with a major service done to the car at 30,000 miles.

after fiddling around, it only happens when im shifting from 2nd to 3rd at WOT. If I start in 3rd and go WOT, then i get my solid .6 but when i shift from 2nd to 3rd at WOT, it stumbles to .5 and i definitely feel the difference...

 

any idea... =(

the car just feels like its stuttering when i go from 2nd to 3rd during WOT.

 

Get the codes read...this was already suggested. Your car does not have to have any dash lights for codes to be registered. Either get a code reader (durametric) or take it somewhere to get it read (autozone or dealer)...this will help with diagnosis.

 

well the ECU is gone for a reflash so i guess ill have to wait till i get it back this weekend.

 

You should have just got a programmer and loaded into your ECU without removal....but too late.