The movement in the std factory rubber bushes results in significant toe and camber change. The sway (anti-roll) bar is primarly to control the body roll, and while reducing the body roll will help a little towards reducing the toe and camber changes getting rid of, or reducing the movement in the bushes makes a much greater improvement in the handling.

 

Depending on the application, the ultimate is to run the 2 piece RSR lower rear arm with the solid castor bush and the inner monoball, other wise we run a 2 piece control arm with a stiffer rubber inner bushing and the solid castor bush.

 

I omitted to mention that the bushing and toe arm upgrades by no means negate the advantage of having better (and adjustable) sway bars.

 

keeps the rear toe correct and replaces the rubber with a fixed ball that wont give or change toe in corners.

 

I generally agree but, when your car increases in torque by more than 250wtq within 500 rpm there is a sweet spot that can easily be overstepped....it was my EVO I was talking about as I have not tracked the 911 any. I run 275s all around with D compounds and 2 degrees of camber, the car is decently dialed. I have a bad habbit of throttle mashing and find that loosening up the sway allows the car to move a little and gives the tires time to stick.

IMHO each driver needs to find their own flaws, learn how to get away from them and try to dial thier car in to suit their driving style. Suspension tuning is not a one size fits all from my perspective.

 

Evader... you are right. Many people have their own technique and need to find their weak spot to improve.