Confused and Tired.. High RPM Idle
#1
Confused and Tired.. High RPM Idle
Well, after fixing up the MAF and the Intake, and the plugs the car FINALLY ran like it should and now its doing this.
I got P0507 on the OBDII reader telling me my cars idling high. If i turn the A/C on it goes down to normal but obviously thats not the end of my problems.
When the car is boosting, it only boosts up to .7 bars instead of the 1.2. I'm assuming its a leak but I'm trying to pinpoint where the leak would be.
I've seen it spike up to 1.5 bars when changing gears which makes me feel like its not a leak but i'm just tired of it.
I've did the battery reset (disconnected negative for 12 mins), turned the car on without the maf then back with it on. still nothing. all the MAF reset did was pop up the PSM and ABS lights but that went away.
Need help soon.
I got P0507 on the OBDII reader telling me my cars idling high. If i turn the A/C on it goes down to normal but obviously thats not the end of my problems.
When the car is boosting, it only boosts up to .7 bars instead of the 1.2. I'm assuming its a leak but I'm trying to pinpoint where the leak would be.
I've seen it spike up to 1.5 bars when changing gears which makes me feel like its not a leak but i'm just tired of it.
I've did the battery reset (disconnected negative for 12 mins), turned the car on without the maf then back with it on. still nothing. all the MAF reset did was pop up the PSM and ABS lights but that went away.
Need help soon.
#2
Sounds like you have a vacuum/boost leak. You can use some PVC fittings to pressurize the entire system and pinpoint all of the leaks. Search for "boost leak tester" on google to get an idea of what parts you will need from the hardware store.
#7
My car did something similar when I changed out the plugs. Turned out I had not totally clicked in one of the lower IC hoses. You might want to check that. And just to let you know, i double and triple checked them when reinstalling so when everyone told me to look I thought it was a waste of time (imagine the look on my face when I saw that IC hose not totally seated)!!
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#8
A spike to 1.5 is not proof that there's not boost leak. Infact, it may be a symptom of the leak. Just a guess... The ECU is trying to overcompensate for the leak and leaving the wastegates shut (via N75 valve) with the compressor wheels cranking. Eventually it overpowers the leak and you get the spike.
#9
i'll check both of them tomorrow afternoon when its light out again and i have time...
if it was indeed a hose that popped off the Wastegate, how can i make sure it doesnt pop out again?
if it was indeed a hose that popped off the Wastegate, how can i make sure it doesnt pop out again?
#10
1. That hose is under vaccum, not pressure, so it is unlikely to pop off.
2. Make sure to use the factory porsche hose (that thing is like chinese finger cuffs and is a royal pain in the A*S to get off. The harder you pull the tighter it gets).
#11
the car sounds just about the same. this all happened after my MAF went bad and i was driving. The car suddenly started to idle high. I reset my MAF again to see but no avail.
I checked the vacuum line to the wastegate but nothing. they are both seated in pretty tightly with zip ties.
for the IC hoses, without taking off the bumper, can you see this? I checked and felt around and it seems like it everythings locked in.
Where else is it likely for a hose to pop-off during a hard acceleration?
#12
Purchase/assemble a boost leak tester such as this one (no affiliation):
http://www.boostpro.net/prodz32tester.html
Plumb it in just before your MAF (or wherever is convenient) using a rubber hose adapter from the hardware store if needed.
Pressurize your intake system to 15-20 psi, and the leaks will all uncover themselves. You won't have to guess or search for likely spots that could leak, you just listen/feel for the leaking air and fix as needed.
This is something every turbo owner should do after playing around with the plumbing.
http://www.boostpro.net/prodz32tester.html
Plumb it in just before your MAF (or wherever is convenient) using a rubber hose adapter from the hardware store if needed.
Pressurize your intake system to 15-20 psi, and the leaks will all uncover themselves. You won't have to guess or search for likely spots that could leak, you just listen/feel for the leaking air and fix as needed.
This is something every turbo owner should do after playing around with the plumbing.