Greddy Diy Install
 

Several guys have asked me to explain my experience in installing my Greddy, as the instructions are written for those with some knowledge of the cars. No disrespect intended to Todd, as the directions are perfect. However, for those of us who are a little less "seasoned" with the square end of these cars, here goes....

The factory piece has three hoses on it and a wiring harness. You can get the factory piece out of it's holder...no problem. The three hoses are key and how I did it was, in looking at the hoses, realized there is one in the front, one on the bottom and one in the back. Armed with that novice based strategy, here is how I did it:

NO Front hose
COM Bottom hose
NC Back hose.

Things I bought and where:
2 sections of 25' each of vacuum line from Napa
3 male-male brass barbs for splicing vacuum line [Lowes]
1 90 degree brass vacuum line fitting that goes into the Greddy [Lowes]
1 three way brass Tee [Lowes]

So now I have the factory gray solenoid popped out of its bracket and have removed the hoses and wiring harness.

Next I spliced in 3-4 inches of new hose onto each of the 3 factory hoses using the brass barbs to give me some room to mount the new solenoid. I also wire tied all the factory fittings as two of them are mated to hard pipe and had no clamp on them. Just hold them from the bottom, slide the hose down tight and double wire tie each connection.

Once I had the splices in and double wire tied, I plugged the tag ends into the new solenoid, using the 90 degree for one of the connections. It doesn't matter which one and you probably don't need a 90, but in my case it just made it easier to get them all buttoned up without any hint of a kink in any of the three lines.

Manipulated the Greddy into a "comfortable location and wire tied the whole thing into place. Done.

Now to the fpr vacuum line. Using one section of new 25' vacuum line from Napa and Mikelly's GREAT tutorial for replacing a 5bar, I removed the air pump and the vacuum line was right there. I used a brass three way I bought from Lowe's for this to make the connection. Once you get it in place, route the hose [w/ the air pump still off so you can see!] back towards the harness.

So now you have 25' of vacuum hose and a wiring harness together in the engine bay. Crawl under the car and follow Todd's directions for snaking your line up through into the bay. Tape them up and pull them through, wire tieing them as you go. Not too tight on the ties- don't crush the vacuum line.

Now you have the harness and the vacuum line hanging under the car. If you are putting your Greddy anywhere in FRONT of the arm rest console, now would be a good time to splice some wire into the harness.

Once that is done. route the vacuum line and harness up, following the ebrake line, into the tunnel where the drive shaft is. Just in front of where the ebrake and shift cables go through, in the very top of the tunnel and directly above thye drive shaft AND COMPLETELY OUT OF SIGHT, run your hand up there and you will feel a rubber grommet. Pull it out.

Route your lines up through the hole and please make sure to wire tie them all the way up to where the ebrake goes through as you certainly do not want them getting caught in the drive shaft!

The rest is pretty straightforward. Route the lines where you want the thing mounted and getr' done. I found what i believe was an old factory radio harness that was not being used for my power. 12v switehed is green/brown and ground is brown. It is a flat 4 or 5 pin plug. Todd's directions use the windows for power.

That's it. Enjoy!

tks will use as a guide
Any chance to get images?

Any chance to get images?

In the greddy manual it says connect NC or NO depending upon internal or external wastegate used...I followed this rule...Am i wrong?Can you get a picture of the solenoid vacuum connections?

for universal purpose; is it safe to say that the front hose is the input to the switcher, and the bottom hose is the output to wastegate, and the back hose is the vacuum source? I ask because i am using the HKS evc 6, and want to get a clear understanding.

i am trying to find out WHY the stock boost controller has 3 vacuums...One goes to the wastegates...The others are almost the same...both are taking intake vacuum from just different positions...One from the throttle body and the other near the F hose...Am I wrong?

that is what i am thinking, but judging from his description, his lower hose(wastegate) is for COM(output), and front hose(to diverter valves) go to NO which is basically input to the stepper motor(HKS EVC6/GREDDY VALVE), and the back hose goes to NC (greddy says this can be TURBO PRESSURE, so is that also vacuum?

The first hose goes from the intake...the other goes from the DVs...both are vacuum/pressure points...Whats the reason to have two different?

i got my EVC 6 running today, but i feel something might be wrong in the hose routing, im hoping someone can clarify the 3 hoses on the frequency valve to see if all 3 have different purposes.

Manager,

Thanks for the post! It was very helpful as was several others that posted regarding the Greddy ProFec B EBC install. I have a question that nobody ever addressed: Did you unplug and/or remove the factory solenoid "996.605.155.00 / PA6 GF30 8" and if you did, did it throw a code??? :confused:

Take it completely out. Harness, clip and vac lines...then remove and store in that special drawer of tool box for removed parts.

Any diagram to how installing the greddy B profec II?

I'm installing 18g's turbos

I made some search i found this

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...astegates.html


https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...-question.html

Manager,

I removed the unit and left the plug there and added extended vacuum hose to all 3 and plugged them in at the 3 ports on the ProFec B unit.

Thanks again, Rick

Did I do it right? :confused:

Any taken photos? Looks like fun.