Here's one reason for loss of boost
I have lost boost many times for many reasons, most already beaten to death on this forum. all very informative. most of my boost problems came from a bad Greddy controller and bad installation.
however one of my times lost boost, while car otherwise was "normal" turned out to be a broken actuator rod on my waste gate of the passenger side turbo. this is a Protomotive upgraded K24 turbo and waste gate. I was not given any real reason why the rod broke.....the first time..... Well you guessed it, start of a 4 day driving event and guess what no boost. drove all weekend anyway and was still as fast as any 997GT3 but in backstraights was a dead heat. usually can blow right bye them. well it was a good weekend to hone my driving skill and actually turned my fastest lap time. anyway back at the shop, you guessed it same rod broken again. again no explaination. I will try to contact todd. My reason for the post is that (and no I havent searched) this seems to be a rare or rarely talked about reason for loss of boost?? So just FYI. if anyone has had this problem and knows why or how to make it not happen again I would appreciate it. regards tom ok PS I did a search and gee I am not the only one with a broken rod. that was what I learned from the search. what I didnt learn is a good answer as to why they break (right side only) and how to make sure that it doesnt happen again?? thanks again tom |
Can you describe the loss of boost? Is it fluctuating? Staying at a certain bar?
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tom rods do break more often then you think , those actuators suck . they stick open alot of times and if your running agreddy that can be bad news, hence to why im running externals now , and i recomend that since your an avid track guy it would deffinately be a good idea . plus they are alot more accurate.
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Originally Posted by 996twin_sc
(Post 2277401)
Can you describe the loss of boost? Is it fluctuating? Staying at a certain bar?
so your max boost is basically half. and car feels like it lost 100hp. |
happened to me already
on evo wategates |
I would never have run if something likte that has happend..stop the evnet and find the problem
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Originally Posted by Kevin
(Post 2277562)
Tom, please don't forget that prior to your engine failure many moon's ago, you broke your actuator arm on one of your turbochargers>> Remember... Then you lost your engine..
(this is a serious question) |
Anyone try spraying some graphite "dry lubricant" inside the wastegate before closing it back up? Mine is a modified stock unit that was cut open and the clamped shut with metal "o" rings before being screwed back together.
lately I do feel that one of the wastegates may be sticking in the closed position. Scary, since that causes overboost. In the meantime I have reverted to the stock flash and get a sustained .9 ro 1.0 BAR. Makes you appreciate how linear the stock TT is. :) ..but I'll take the sssss...BANG dynomite flash any day.
Originally Posted by unvmym3
(Post 2277414)
tom rods do break more often then you think , those actuators suck . they stick open alot of times and if your running agreddy that can be bad news, hence to why im running externals now , and i recomend that since your an avid track guy it would deffinately be a good idea . plus they are alot more accurate.
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think that only one wastegate is working, that mean 1 turbo is boost all it can and the otherone is full open, the flow in the intake will be toataly messed upp and the engien is going to get wrong mixtures
There is a reason why the wastegates are dialed in with extrem causient |
I have had two wastegate rods snap, both on the left side, both on GT700 progams. the first on the standard piece, the second on EVOMS' "older" upgraded piece. On their "new and improved" item, so far, so good.
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I broke several of them (both sides) before I finally got tired of replacing and went to external WG's. On the larger compressor housings (I have GT30 series)the rods must have 4 bends to clear the housing. Many times the whole rod is threaded and that's the worst thing to have. I believe stress risers are created at the bends bc most of them are probably bent using a vice.
Tom, the ultimate solution is 44mm Tial external waste gates. Easy to set up with your existing boost controller. I think mine have 0.9 bar springs and with my boost controller completely off the max boost with spring control only is somewherre between 1.1 and 1.2, as best I remember. |
Originally Posted by Al Norton
(Post 2277739)
I broke several of them (both sides) before I finally got tired of replacing and went to external WG's. On the larger compressor housings (I have GT30 series)the rods must have 4 bends to clear the housing. Many times the whole rod is threaded and that's the worst thing to have. I believe stress risers are created at the bends bc most of them are probably bent using a vice.
Tom, the ultimate solution is 44mm Tial external waste gates. Easy to set up with your existing boost controller. I think mine have 0.9 bar springs and with my boost controller completely off the max boost with spring control only is somewherre between 1.1 and 1.2, as best I remember. |
Originally Posted by unvmym3
(Post 2277414)
tom rods do break more often then you think , those actuators suck . they stick open alot of times and if your running agreddy that can be bad news, hence to why im running externals now , and i recomend that since your an avid track guy it would deffinately be a good idea . plus they are alot more accurate.
thanks but what would that take. do I need to change out turbos also? ??Dan's turbos with external waste gates or mod mine? |
It has happened to my as well...on passenger side on a 1bar wastegate at k16/24 turbos...i believe that passenger side rods tend more to fail than drivers side due to the fact that the rod is already bended...and so it is not so strong...
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Originally Posted by Kevin
(Post 2277562)
Tom, please don't forget that prior to your engine failure many moon's ago, you broke your actuator arm on one of your turbochargers>> Remember... Then you lost your engine..
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