I had a spoiler failure indication, and wrote a thread or two and got some feedback on bleeding a cylinder because the drivers side was not moving.

I decided the winter snow is a great excuse to shred, so I here it is....

First of all, I didn't have any leaks. Some had written that they had to bleed, but this didn't make sense to be as I'd have to have a leak somewhere. I didn't, just the ram didn't move.

The system is pretty easy as a motor drives a screw that connects to a block that pushes on the two pistons that move the cylinders. The block, made of some kind of pot-plastic, fractured. and the pushrod of the drivers side piston just moved freely back and forth through the broken block.

Anyone have some old bits such as the block and the wiring harness that they'd part with so I can patch up this thing?

Some Pics....

 

Thanks for the write up JJ. Can't you just some super duper adhesive and put it back together?

 

JBWeld baby! That stuff fixes dang near anything :-)

 

nice write up.

 

jb or liquid nails

 

I wish it was that easy.

Reading up, I guess that the rams extended are at about 30 bar, or about 450 psi. It's just a bunch of force.
Thought about machining a block out of steel by some buddies at one of the shops at Cornell U., but probably just see if someone has replaced theirs because of a leak, and would sell me their hydro unit to canabalize...

 

Will post a WTB for a hydro unit. Dead one OK...
Just need that piece.

 

Here's a potentially dumb question, but has me thinking looking at the guts of that assembly you showed us.

Would it be theoretically possible to remove all that stuff from the car in order to leave the wing in the down position? The reason I ask is because I already have mine disabled and in the down position, but would love to clear out the unnecessary weight left behind.

Assumption: This might lead to problems with my car throwing a CEL, even if it's possible. I currently have my wing unplugged and taped, but have never thrown a CEL at all (2001 model). Could you confirm if this sounds possible at all?

Further assumption: The hydraulic rams might need to be left behind since they are helping to support my wing, even in the down position.

Final question...do you mind weighing the guts of that stuff to let me know how much weight we're talking about. I assume 5 pounds or so, but would love to know the truth, particularly if the motor itself can be easily removed. Thanks so much.

 

You really can't do that in that the cylinders must be extended to get the wing on and off.
If you pull off the hydro, I don't know how you'd be able to reattach the wing.
To ge my wing off, I had to extend the wing, but the drivers was down. To get the tool in, I had to lift the wing and it comes up hard.... put towels and used a hockey puck on edge to hold it up.
When I gave the cylinder the turn with the pin spanner, and it came loose, it shot back into the decklid with a shotgun type spring tension. Scared the crap out of me.
The only way I think it may work for you is if you took out the banjo bolt and the bottom, and used a very long bolt to thread up and extend the cylinder so you could get the wing on.

 

Ah well, you can't blame me for trying. Thanks jjbravo!

 

Oh, and I missed the part about weight... It really isn't that heavy 2-3 lbs for the electrohydro unit. The cylinders seemed heavier as I recall... but without them, you really can't hold the wing down.

 

JJ,http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/PORSC...#ht_500wt_1182 may be....

 

In.
Thanks so much.

 

Thanks. Won the auction... well, I was the only bidder.
When I get it, I'll post up my fix.

Then I'll post up my Clutchmasters Stg3 clutch and GT2 hydro conversion DIY... I have the parts, but I need motivation.

 

Good for you. Now Keep the extra parts JJ we never know and keep us inform of your progression...