Can anyone give me an idea of exactly how much fluid is required to refill the two hydraulic lifts the push up the rear spoiler?

The reason I am asking is because I finally figured out that the very small leak at the base of the driver-side lift in my car wasn’t due to a malfunction but to a slightly loose banjo bolt: once I tightened it the leak has stopped altogether. Yay!

However, the thing has been leaking a drop every two-three days for the past three-four months: the warning never came up in the instrument cluster and the wing never failed to rise evenly on both sides.

Now that in a few days the car is due for maintenance I am wondering if I should have the shop refill the reservoir or just let it be until (if at all at this point) a warning comes up on the cluster.

Your thoughts? Would a few drops of fluid each week for the past few months be sufficient to make a significant dent in the total amount held in the reservoir?

 

There is about two shot glasses worth of fluid in each side, but there is no fluid in the reserviours that attach to your wing UNTIL the wing is raised. All of the fluid is in the pistons inside the pump when your wing is lowered.

 

. What ever you do, DO NOT REMOVE the pump and attach it to ann external battery, this will guarantee to ruin your pump - for more information on this, follow this post. https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...ml#post2701430

 

Thank you, that’s valuable information.

Do you really think that the lines will have enough negative pressure to suck up the fluid from the their respective containers (as you described) upon the wing being extended?

 

Oh, I am sure that there is enough negative pressure - so much so that when mine - await a minute... don't do this.... thinking this through, that may be exactlly what the springs are for. I have no doubt that there is enough negative pressure to pull it back, but the question is, are the internals strong enough to pull it through without the spring and I think the answer to that is NO!

 

sorry - I wanted to get that post out to you as soon as I realized it was not a good idea. Reason being is that the entire mechanical part that makes up the plunger and guides inside the pump housing is made of PLASTIC! Yes, while everything else is waaay over engineered, the piston guides and balance block are made of plastic and could never take the amount of pressure it would need to suck the fluid back into the internal reserviours with out the spring to assist.... damn, all weekend I was thinking to myself - WTF is that spring for, who would "rig" some 1/2arsed contraption like that? And all the time it is because the pump is not strong enough to pull it back on it's own. Would also explain why you cannot manually lower the wing when you are going over 45mph....

 

Understood. Thank you for the correction - before I do some major damage to the thing :-)

 

no kidding - sorry about that... only real safe way to do it is to follow these instructions.

Because there is no fluid (or very, very little) in the external rams that connect to the wing, there really should not be any reason to remove them. If I had to do this again, this is what I would do.

1. with the wing at the lowest setting, disconnect the banjo lines from the external jacks and remove the pump housing from under the fan shroud - Remembering NOT to take the brake light out, just unplug it - regardless how long it takes to disconnect the wire from the light, don't do it...

2. remove the 4 allen bolts from the top of the pump housing (the end away from the motor's connections and remove the cover with lines attached.

3. Inside you will see two plunger reserviours, I used an infant medicine syringe to extract out the hydraulic fluid from the quart I bought and then just filled the plunger reserviours all the way to the top. The reason, I think you should keep the lines attached to the top ofthe pump housing and fill the plunger reserviours all the way to the top is as you reconnect the 4 allen bolts and begin to tighten, the excess fluid will slowly be forced through the lines, removing any air bubbles and the whole assembly is so air tight that there is no way that any is going to run out after the top is screwed back on.

Anyway, that is exactly what I should have done and would do today if I had known better. - Ryan

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