996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Sachs & LWF options - what works

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Old May 23, 2010 | 06:25 AM
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Sachs & LWF options - what works

Im looking at a Sachs set up hp range 525 to 600 max. The dual mass FW is heavy the LWF maybe to light. So what is the best option available today.
1. Is there something in between 40 and 14 lbs that works ?
2. If i decide LWF what are you guys using that works ?
Who has the best price as well? thx for your help
 
Old May 23, 2010 | 09:06 AM
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Can't advise on your specifics, but my recent tune, put me at ~540+ at the crank. When I changed the clutch, I went with a GT3RS clutch and a LWFW (12 #'s, IIRC).

I love it - it changed the motor in the best ways - no more lugging at low revs, much faster on throttle response, and the shifting is delight as well. (I also have an SSK, but the LWFW is the best -would never go back to that dual-mass POS)

I was very reluctant to go this route, but both Kevin @ UMW and Colin @ Cantrell's talked me into it, and it was absolutely the right decision.

Butt dyno says LWFW added another 30 HP ... of course not really, but the load off the engine is AMAZING!!!
 

Last edited by Supercollider; May 23, 2010 at 09:08 AM.
Old May 23, 2010 | 09:38 AM
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How is the sound?
 
Old May 23, 2010 | 10:11 AM
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+1 to supercollider. I have the same setup on my car, also from UMW, and I like it fine. The 964RS clutch is somewhat stiffer than stock, but you get used to it.

If you idle at a stop light with the clutch out and the windows open, it's noisy. It sounds bit like a diesel truck, so I feel at home in Indiana. Depress the clutch and the noise goes away.

I also did the GT2/3 actuator conversion and 997 SSK.

All great mods.
 
Old May 23, 2010 | 10:51 AM
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1.s o then my next question is GT3RS clutch and a LWFW (12 #'s, IIRC) quiet? I would think there is some noise correct?

2. Looks like 964RS set ups works but makes some noise?

Question which one makes less noise?

I dont mind noise at idle just dont want noise when crusen or moving forward.

thx guys
 
Old May 23, 2010 | 01:08 PM
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Kevin... I agree

1.For the street and DE use the newer GT3RS clutch disk is the recommendation. For street and DE you need the springs in the disc...kinda looks like like a hockey puck to relieve vibration in drive train.

2.Is the cluch masters on one of the threads here a option also?...


3.I guess i can use GT3RS on my dual mass but if i want to go with something lighter what LWF do you guys use?

thx Ed
 
Old May 23, 2010 | 02:20 PM
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Can anyone explain why the LWFW sounds like a bucket of loose bolts at idle?
I love the benefits of a LWFW but hate the noise.

Is it a 2 piece unit or? And can the noise be reduced or eliminated?
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 05:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Racin Jason
Can anyone explain why the LWFW sounds like a bucket of loose bolts at idle?
I love the benefits of a LWFW but hate the noise.

Is it a 2 piece unit or? And can the noise be reduced or eliminated?
I'd also be interested to know if there are any LWFW's out there that don't rattle so bad....
 
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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I have the Carbonetics Triple Disk Clutch and LWFW.

I have the 9 inch clutch plate and 11 inch clutch setup. The disk is a composit of Carbon, Silicon, Aluminum, Bronz and Titanium. The LWFW ia Aluminum.

LWFW weights 11.5 lbs
Clutch weights 12.3 lbs

Simply an awesome clutch and will hold 800+HP, 1000 TQ. My car makes about 590HP to the crank.

It takes 800+ miles to break in.

It does not stop the tranny gears from making noise at idle.

Remember, the LWFW does not make any noise it comes from the LWFW's inability to keep the tranny grears from moving around at idle so you hear a rattle noise. I changes the tranny oil when I changes the clutch but this will not help. No way to get around this. Some make more noise that others and depends upon the weight of the LWFW. I like myne to be on the light side and get the maximun effect of having a LWFW = quick engine revs throughout the entire rev range.
 
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Last edited by robertp; Jun 17, 2010 at 07:34 AM.
Old Jun 17, 2010 | 08:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Kevin
eds996tt

If you lug your engine below 2000 RPM, you will get the noise/rattle. You must have more than 235ft lbs of torque generated by your engine to get rid of the noise. This quickly happens in 1st gear at around 2400 RPM's..
As Kevin states, below 2400 rpms you will hear the noise unless you're driving somewhat aggressively. I don't hear it in 1st, but do in 2nd (also at idle without the clutch pedal depressed) - can't always drive hard in rush-hour traffic
 
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