ATTN: anyone who purschaed a set of gt3 seats from the rottec group buy...
ATTN: anyone who purschaed a set of gt3 seats from the rottec group buy...
first off thanks for reading this because im stumped.
im trying to figure out how to get these brackets/sliders mounted up to my seats but it seems like i dont have enough of the right sized bolts to do both seats.
the setup came with 6 short bolts, 6 long bolts, 12 washers, 12 lock washers and 4 zip ties. now i was assuming that you use the small bolts for the bottom mounting plate to the slider but with only 6 of them clearly im mistaken.
does anyone have a DIY or a step by step instruction on how to put these things together?
i found this for the actual install of the seats...
http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album651
hope someone is able to help me out ASAP.
thanks...
btw here are the seats and the car its going in
im trying to figure out how to get these brackets/sliders mounted up to my seats but it seems like i dont have enough of the right sized bolts to do both seats.
the setup came with 6 short bolts, 6 long bolts, 12 washers, 12 lock washers and 4 zip ties. now i was assuming that you use the small bolts for the bottom mounting plate to the slider but with only 6 of them clearly im mistaken.
does anyone have a DIY or a step by step instruction on how to put these things together?
i found this for the actual install of the seats...
http://gallery.rennlist.com/gallery/album651
hope someone is able to help me out ASAP.
thanks...
btw here are the seats and the car its going in
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 100
From: Fort Worth, TX
Rep Power: 23
While overall I'm satisfied with the quality of the seats (based on the price), the installation is far from "plug and play." I just finished getting the seats in today but I'd have to say I probably spent a solid 10+ hours trying to "engineer" things and make it all work. And that doesn't count numerous trips to the hardware store either.
First, I trashed the supplied hardware. It appears to me to be low-grade, and based on my desire to ensure my seats remain firmly bolted in in the event of a mishap, I purchased new stainless hardware (I couldn't find any Grade-8 metric bolts locally). How you're supposed to put everything together with a total of 12 bolts, I have no idea. And yes, I received the same number as you did.
The next thing you'll find is that after you bolt the flat brackets to the slides, the bolt heads (or nuts depending on which way you orient the bolts) will contact the floor of the car when you try to bolt them down. When I inquired as to how this was supposed to work, the email I received said I could basically just bolt them in that way. Unacceptable in my opinion. My solution was to go to a local welder and have the slides welded to the lower flat brackets. It wasn't necessary to run a continuous bead along the entire length of both sides of each bracket. I just had four beads of about 2" length done evenly along each side of each bracket. That of course required a lot of clean up, sanding, and repainting. There's a couple of hours right there.
Next thing you'll have to do is engineer how you're going to bolt on the female seat belt end. In the hardware box, there should have been two additional side brackets. They will have a hole drilled in each one. I was told to use these brackets on the sides where the seat belts bolt up, and use the pre-drilled holes. Standby for another trip to the hardware store. You'll need some sort of a sleeve type bushing as well as a bolt and nut to bolt the seat belts to the brackets. I basically made a bronze sleeve bushing that allows the female end to bolt up to the bracket much the way the stock seat has a steel bushing where the belt bolts to the seat. I used a 10mm button head bolt, as if you use a bolt with a hex head, and use a bushing like I did, the head of the bolt will probably drag on your center tunnel carpet when you move the seats fore and aft.
Part deuce of the seat belt problem is that if you use the supplied holes in the brackets for the bolt location, you cant use the bottom mounting holes to mount the seats because the seat belt bolt will hit the carbon-fiber seat bottom. I had considered drilling a clearance hole in the seat itself, but finally decided against that and drilled a new hole for the seat belt bolt roughly and inch back and about 1/2" below the pre-drilled hole. If I'd have started out knowing this, I'd have simply drilled a single hole in the original side bracket.
The next thing you'll find if you desire to put the seats as low as they will go (I'm tall), is that the top of the aft seat brackets will sit over the top of the plastic inserts for the belt holes in the sides of the seats. I spent some time trying to figure out how to take these out, so I could use a Dremel with a sanding drum to trim off the material that interferes with the brackets. Eventually I figured out that there is enough side-to-side play that I could shim the outside of the plastic trim piece away from the seat and simply trim it still installed on the seat. However, you'll want to figure out what seat position you'd like before carving away, as the amount of material you'll need to remove will depend on which holes you use in the front and rear of the side brackets. In my case, I found that I needed a little more recline, so I am using the bottom most rear hole, and top most front hole. That's all the recline you can get, and actually put the seat back very close to where my stock seats were anyway.
Doing the seat belt wiring, getting the brackets set up to the proper dimensions to match the floor of the car, routing the seat belts, and several other details would add several pages here. Safe to say I found the recommended "GT3 Seat Install" web link helpful, but far from satisfactory in answering a multitude of questions on how to do this job properly.
I'll be happy to offer more details if you want or need them.
R-
Bill
First, I trashed the supplied hardware. It appears to me to be low-grade, and based on my desire to ensure my seats remain firmly bolted in in the event of a mishap, I purchased new stainless hardware (I couldn't find any Grade-8 metric bolts locally). How you're supposed to put everything together with a total of 12 bolts, I have no idea. And yes, I received the same number as you did.
The next thing you'll find is that after you bolt the flat brackets to the slides, the bolt heads (or nuts depending on which way you orient the bolts) will contact the floor of the car when you try to bolt them down. When I inquired as to how this was supposed to work, the email I received said I could basically just bolt them in that way. Unacceptable in my opinion. My solution was to go to a local welder and have the slides welded to the lower flat brackets. It wasn't necessary to run a continuous bead along the entire length of both sides of each bracket. I just had four beads of about 2" length done evenly along each side of each bracket. That of course required a lot of clean up, sanding, and repainting. There's a couple of hours right there.
Next thing you'll have to do is engineer how you're going to bolt on the female seat belt end. In the hardware box, there should have been two additional side brackets. They will have a hole drilled in each one. I was told to use these brackets on the sides where the seat belts bolt up, and use the pre-drilled holes. Standby for another trip to the hardware store. You'll need some sort of a sleeve type bushing as well as a bolt and nut to bolt the seat belts to the brackets. I basically made a bronze sleeve bushing that allows the female end to bolt up to the bracket much the way the stock seat has a steel bushing where the belt bolts to the seat. I used a 10mm button head bolt, as if you use a bolt with a hex head, and use a bushing like I did, the head of the bolt will probably drag on your center tunnel carpet when you move the seats fore and aft.
Part deuce of the seat belt problem is that if you use the supplied holes in the brackets for the bolt location, you cant use the bottom mounting holes to mount the seats because the seat belt bolt will hit the carbon-fiber seat bottom. I had considered drilling a clearance hole in the seat itself, but finally decided against that and drilled a new hole for the seat belt bolt roughly and inch back and about 1/2" below the pre-drilled hole. If I'd have started out knowing this, I'd have simply drilled a single hole in the original side bracket.
The next thing you'll find if you desire to put the seats as low as they will go (I'm tall), is that the top of the aft seat brackets will sit over the top of the plastic inserts for the belt holes in the sides of the seats. I spent some time trying to figure out how to take these out, so I could use a Dremel with a sanding drum to trim off the material that interferes with the brackets. Eventually I figured out that there is enough side-to-side play that I could shim the outside of the plastic trim piece away from the seat and simply trim it still installed on the seat. However, you'll want to figure out what seat position you'd like before carving away, as the amount of material you'll need to remove will depend on which holes you use in the front and rear of the side brackets. In my case, I found that I needed a little more recline, so I am using the bottom most rear hole, and top most front hole. That's all the recline you can get, and actually put the seat back very close to where my stock seats were anyway.
Doing the seat belt wiring, getting the brackets set up to the proper dimensions to match the floor of the car, routing the seat belts, and several other details would add several pages here. Safe to say I found the recommended "GT3 Seat Install" web link helpful, but far from satisfactory in answering a multitude of questions on how to do this job properly.
I'll be happy to offer more details if you want or need them.
R-
Bill
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 611
From: Portland OR
Rep Power: 52
Thanks for the writeup on your install woes dog4delta. I am curious to hear some others experiences and see if they are having similar difficulties or if you were supplied "bad" hardware for some reason. I am considering some of the sFCGT seats in the future. Thanks for being a guinea pig!: )
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Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,111
From: Vancouver Canada
Rep Power: 0
While overall I'm satisfied with the quality of the seats (based on the price), the installation is far from "plug and play." I just finished getting the seats in today but I'd have to say I probably spent a solid 10+ hours trying to "engineer" things and make it all work. And that doesn't count numerous trips to the hardware store either.
First, I trashed the supplied hardware. It appears to me to be low-grade, and based on my desire to ensure my seats remain firmly bolted in in the event of a mishap, I purchased new stainless hardware (I couldn't find any Grade-8 metric bolts locally). How you're supposed to put everything together with a total of 12 bolts, I have no idea. And yes, I received the same number as you did.
The next thing you'll find is that after you bolt the flat brackets to the slides, the bolt heads (or nuts depending on which way you orient the bolts) will contact the floor of the car when you try to bolt them down. When I inquired as to how this was supposed to work, the email I received said I could basically just bolt them in that way. Unacceptable in my opinion. My solution was to go to a local welder and have the slides welded to the lower flat brackets. It wasn't necessary to run a continuous bead along the entire length of both sides of each bracket. I just had four beads of about 2" length done evenly along each side of each bracket. That of course required a lot of clean up, sanding, and repainting. There's a couple of hours right there.
Next thing you'll have to do is engineer how you're going to bolt on the female seat belt end. In the hardware box, there should have been two additional side brackets. They will have a hole drilled in each one. I was told to use these brackets on the sides where the seat belts bolt up, and use the pre-drilled holes. Standby for another trip to the hardware store. You'll need some sort of a sleeve type bushing as well as a bolt and nut to bolt the seat belts to the brackets. I basically made a bronze sleeve bushing that allows the female end to bolt up to the bracket much the way the stock seat has a steel bushing where the belt bolts to the seat. I used a 10mm button head bolt, as if you use a bolt with a hex head, and use a bushing like I did, the head of the bolt will probably drag on your center tunnel carpet when you move the seats fore and aft.
Part deuce of the seat belt problem is that if you use the supplied holes in the brackets for the bolt location, you cant use the bottom mounting holes to mount the seats because the seat belt bolt will hit the carbon-fiber seat bottom. I had considered drilling a clearance hole in the seat itself, but finally decided against that and drilled a new hole for the seat belt bolt roughly and inch back and about 1/2" below the pre-drilled hole. If I'd have started out knowing this, I'd have simply drilled a single hole in the original side bracket.
The next thing you'll find if you desire to put the seats as low as they will go (I'm tall), is that the top of the aft seat brackets will sit over the top of the plastic inserts for the belt holes in the sides of the seats. I spent some time trying to figure out how to take these out, so I could use a Dremel with a sanding drum to trim off the material that interferes with the brackets. Eventually I figured out that there is enough side-to-side play that I could shim the outside of the plastic trim piece away from the seat and simply trim it still installed on the seat. However, you'll want to figure out what seat position you'd like before carving away, as the amount of material you'll need to remove will depend on which holes you use in the front and rear of the side brackets. In my case, I found that I needed a little more recline, so I am using the bottom most rear hole, and top most front hole. That's all the recline you can get, and actually put the seat back very close to where my stock seats were anyway.
Doing the seat belt wiring, getting the brackets set up to the proper dimensions to match the floor of the car, routing the seat belts, and several other details would add several pages here. Safe to say I found the recommended "GT3 Seat Install" web link helpful, but far from satisfactory in answering a multitude of questions on how to do this job properly.
I'll be happy to offer more details if you want or need them.
R-
Bill
First, I trashed the supplied hardware. It appears to me to be low-grade, and based on my desire to ensure my seats remain firmly bolted in in the event of a mishap, I purchased new stainless hardware (I couldn't find any Grade-8 metric bolts locally). How you're supposed to put everything together with a total of 12 bolts, I have no idea. And yes, I received the same number as you did.
The next thing you'll find is that after you bolt the flat brackets to the slides, the bolt heads (or nuts depending on which way you orient the bolts) will contact the floor of the car when you try to bolt them down. When I inquired as to how this was supposed to work, the email I received said I could basically just bolt them in that way. Unacceptable in my opinion. My solution was to go to a local welder and have the slides welded to the lower flat brackets. It wasn't necessary to run a continuous bead along the entire length of both sides of each bracket. I just had four beads of about 2" length done evenly along each side of each bracket. That of course required a lot of clean up, sanding, and repainting. There's a couple of hours right there.
Next thing you'll have to do is engineer how you're going to bolt on the female seat belt end. In the hardware box, there should have been two additional side brackets. They will have a hole drilled in each one. I was told to use these brackets on the sides where the seat belts bolt up, and use the pre-drilled holes. Standby for another trip to the hardware store. You'll need some sort of a sleeve type bushing as well as a bolt and nut to bolt the seat belts to the brackets. I basically made a bronze sleeve bushing that allows the female end to bolt up to the bracket much the way the stock seat has a steel bushing where the belt bolts to the seat. I used a 10mm button head bolt, as if you use a bolt with a hex head, and use a bushing like I did, the head of the bolt will probably drag on your center tunnel carpet when you move the seats fore and aft.
Part deuce of the seat belt problem is that if you use the supplied holes in the brackets for the bolt location, you cant use the bottom mounting holes to mount the seats because the seat belt bolt will hit the carbon-fiber seat bottom. I had considered drilling a clearance hole in the seat itself, but finally decided against that and drilled a new hole for the seat belt bolt roughly and inch back and about 1/2" below the pre-drilled hole. If I'd have started out knowing this, I'd have simply drilled a single hole in the original side bracket.
The next thing you'll find if you desire to put the seats as low as they will go (I'm tall), is that the top of the aft seat brackets will sit over the top of the plastic inserts for the belt holes in the sides of the seats. I spent some time trying to figure out how to take these out, so I could use a Dremel with a sanding drum to trim off the material that interferes with the brackets. Eventually I figured out that there is enough side-to-side play that I could shim the outside of the plastic trim piece away from the seat and simply trim it still installed on the seat. However, you'll want to figure out what seat position you'd like before carving away, as the amount of material you'll need to remove will depend on which holes you use in the front and rear of the side brackets. In my case, I found that I needed a little more recline, so I am using the bottom most rear hole, and top most front hole. That's all the recline you can get, and actually put the seat back very close to where my stock seats were anyway.
Doing the seat belt wiring, getting the brackets set up to the proper dimensions to match the floor of the car, routing the seat belts, and several other details would add several pages here. Safe to say I found the recommended "GT3 Seat Install" web link helpful, but far from satisfactory in answering a multitude of questions on how to do this job properly.
I'll be happy to offer more details if you want or need them.
R-
Bill
Former Vendor
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 4,111
From: Vancouver Canada
Rep Power: 0
Thanks for the writeup on your install woes dog4delta. I am curious to hear some others experiences and see if they are having similar difficulties or if you were supplied "bad" hardware for some reason. I am considering some of the sFCGT seats in the future. Thanks for being a guinea pig!: )
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 611
From: Portland OR
Rep Power: 52
Noted, thanks Ray!
Registered User
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 823
From: Mojave, CA
Rep Power: 133
First, I trashed the supplied hardware. It appears to me to be low-grade, and based on my desire to ensure my seats remain firmly bolted in in the event of a mishap, I purchased new stainless hardware (I couldn't find any Grade-8 metric bolts locally). How you're supposed to put everything together with a total of 12 bolts, I have no idea. And yes, I received the same number as you did.
Some info on stainless steel (from Bolt Depot):
"Stainless steel is an alloy of low carbon steel and chromium for enhanced corrosion characteristics. Stainless steel is highly corrosion resistant for the price and because the anti-corrosive properties are inherent to the metal, it will not lose this resistance if scratched during installation or use.
It is a common misconception that stainless steel is stronger than regular steel. In fact, due to the low carbon content, stainless steel cannot be hardened. Therefore when compared with regular steel it is slightly stronger than an un-hardened (grade 2) steel fastener but significantly weaker than hardened steel fasteners."
Would highly recommend 8.8 or 10.9 bolts.
Happy motoring!
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