996 Turbo / GT2 Turbo discussion on previous model 2000-2005 Porsche 911 Twin Turbo and 911 GT2.

Carbon Fiber package, dash trim repair?

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  #31  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:07 PM
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Alright. I dove in. It helps if you crack the resin. Mine was still in tact just warped. Once i accidentally cracked it in a spot it all went much smoother
 
  #32  
Old 02-18-2018, 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by HotRodGuy



can you describe this more? You’re basically breaking off the clear coat?
Yes, it all just cracks and breaks off leaving the perfect carbon fiber weave to be re-coated. Mine came off very easily and the long strip lent itself to the cracking off process. A small rounded vent wound be a different story.
 
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  #33  
Old 02-18-2018, 05:04 PM
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Still holding up well with the clear?
 
  #34  
Old 02-18-2018, 08:26 PM
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Yes, perfectly and it's been years now...no curling whatsoever
 
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  #35  
Old 02-19-2018, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by HotRodGuy



can you describe this more? You’re basically breaking off the clear coat?
It's not clear coat, rather poly resin (hence why it yellows and looks like **** over time). Yes if you're careful you can peel it all back. Next I would try and clean carefully as you don't want to disturb the carbon cloth. Then I'd brush layer after layer of epoxy resin (not poly) and then sand in between and then after all that you re-clear w/ auto paint. Will last forever.
 
  #36  
Old 02-19-2018, 10:16 AM
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You don't have to sand in between if you do the next layer within about 12 hours (depending on the cure time of your resin). The slow stuff takes about 24 hours to cure fully.

If you coat with automotive clear coat (3 coats) at the end, you can stop the "yellowing" process almost completely.
 
  #37  
Old 02-19-2018, 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Slider
You don't have to sand in between if you do the next layer within about 12 hours (depending on the cure time of your resin). The slow stuff takes about 24 hours to cure fully.

If you coat with automotive clear coat (3 coats) at the end, you can stop the "yellowing" process almost completely.
Yeah I should've clarified to mean, sand in between last coat of resin and clear, not between all layers, though case by case my sometimes dictate otherwise. The yellowing is due to the poly resin 100%> clear will eliminate for sure. I bet even just the epoxy resin would be stable for many years as most is UV rated nowadays.
 
  #38  
Old 02-19-2018, 11:09 AM
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I just used an off the shelf clear coat in a spray can and it has lasted for years, no yellowing or curling...it took about 20 coats to get a good look and depth.
 
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  #39  
Old 02-19-2018, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by John@SpeedTech
I just used an off the shelf clear coat in a spray can and it has lasted for years, no yellowing or curling...it took about 20 coats to get a good look and depth.
Yeah it works, but there's a reason you had to do 20 coats. It's not the proper way to do it. Substrate > carbon cloth > epoxy resin > clear coat.
 
  #40  
Old 02-19-2018, 04:03 PM
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I'll be honest, the resin scares me. How do you separate it, etc? How messy does it get? Which resin do you recommend? How do you ensure even layering?
 
  #41  
Old 02-19-2018, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by HotRodGuy
I'll be honest, the resin scares me. How do you separate it, etc? How messy does it get? Which resin do you recommend? How do you ensure even layering?
I use a marine resin. Epoxy is 2-part. Easy to use, makes a mess, no fumes which is nice. It's very labor intensive for sure, but if you are interested and take your time you can do it.
 
  #42  
Old 02-19-2018, 06:04 PM
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The resin you use really matters. Some resin easily fills with bubbles that are hard/impossible to get out, other stuff is clear and invisible. Easy rule - if it costs more - it's probably better. I get mine at CompositeEnvisions.com. If you don't know what to get - call them. They will fix you up.
 
  #43  
Old 02-19-2018, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Slider
The resin you use really matters. Some resin easily fills with bubbles that are hard/impossible to get out, other stuff is clear and invisible. Easy rule - if it costs more - it's probably better. I get mine at CompositeEnvisions.com. If you don't know what to get - call them. They will fix you up.
torching is key, but agreed buying good resin is very important.
 
  #44  
Old 02-19-2018, 09:06 PM
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Originally Posted by s65e90
Yeah it works, but there's a reason you had to do 20 coats. It's not the proper way to do it. Substrate > carbon cloth > epoxy resin > clear coat.
Maybe so, but it was very easy to do and worked very well, so I am totally happy with the result and have zero regrets...I did the 20 coats in a day and was done. No mixing materials, no fussing, just go out and spray a coat every 30 minutes or so until a the desired thickness is achieved. A coat takes about 1 minute with a spray can. I think it's a reasonable alternative to mixing and playing with resin.
 
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  #45  
Old 03-05-2018, 09:27 AM
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So, i decided to clear coat them.....and in the process my kids decided to knock them off onto the ground.......i now need to redo them. Any tips for getting clear coat off CF
 


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