Hi,

I just got the 60K service done on my car, and the battery was disconnected at that time. I need to get emissions done sometime in the near future, and the procedure to get all states to "ready" seems impossible. I can't see the following events ever happening in the normal course of driving (the info below is what I got when I did a search on this topic here) - link below is 993 specific, but supposed to apply to 996's as well.

Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.


Can't think of any place where I could just drive 60 mph for 15 minutes without a stop sign or other slow down. According to the above criteria, if the engine goes above 3k RPM or above 60mph, you have to start over.

Any help or input? Has anyone passed emissions soon after service without going through the above?

Thanks!!


forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-964-993-technical-forum/382813-obdii-readiness-drive-cycle-procedures.html

 

Idle in gear for 5 min? As in you have to keep it in 1st and your foot on the clutch the whole time? That seems rather annoying.

 

I'd bet those are cumulative numbers, idle in gear for a total of 5 minutes, not all at once.

The parameters will reset over time by simply driving the car. If you want them reset the quickest possible, those are the criteria the PCM is looking for to determine the sensors are "ready".

I've seen various numbers of miles for resetting the sensors, probably depends on where you're driving. I'd expect at least one tank of gas is needed, if not two.

I've also read that the PCM will enrichen the mixture to test the O2 sensors to ensure a difference in reading between the first and second to validate the CC is doing its job. Not sure what the parameters to run this test but I'd, again, bet it wants a hot convertor and steady-state driving.

 

Is the a known 996 turbo way to do this?

 

Having this problem now. Flunked my last emissions testbecause sensors were not "ready". Been driving around for a few weeks in hopes that everything will reset. Fingers crossed.

 

[quote=okcomputer;3180299]Hi,

I just got the 60K service done on my car, and the battery was disconnected at that time. I need to get emissions done sometime in the near future, and the procedure to get all states to "ready" seems impossible. I can't see the following events ever happening in the normal course of driving (the info below is what I got when I did a search on this topic here) - link below is 993 specific, but supposed to apply to 996's as well.

Start engine, idle cold for approx. 2 min, 10 secs.

Accelerate to 20-30 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 3 min, 15 secs.

Accelerate to 40-60 MPH, Maintain steady speed for approx 15 mins.

Decelerate and come to a stop. Idle in gear* for approx 5 mins.


Can't think of any place where I could just drive 60 mph for 15 minutes without a stop sign or other slow down. According to the above criteria, if the engine goes above 3k RPM or above 60mph, you have to start over.

Any help or input? Has anyone passed emissions soon after service without going through the above?

Thanks!!




I've reset the check engine light on my 03 Turbo now a couple of times. Once just to do it -- no error codes -- the next time after a couple of wet engine misfires.

Takes about 30 miles/minutes of driving 'normally' for the readiness monitors to become ready.

What I do is start the engine cold, let it idle until idle slows down/smooths out (minute or less) then just drive the car 'easy' (under 4K rpms and I keep it below 3.5K rpms) until engine fully up to temp, then drive it. Some highway driving, some blvd. driving and some additional city driving with stop and go driving.

If you want you can get a simple Obd code reader/readiness monitor viewer and check the status of the readiness monitors as you drive and to re-check them before you take the car in for smog. Do not press clear codes button though or you have to do it all over again!

When you take the car in be sure the engine is fully warmed up -- I drive the car like I want to have the readiness codes set to all ready again -- and I don't shut the engine off when I visit the smog shop and I watch the techs and they don't shut the engine off until after the test is over.

Oh, no dyno testing. In CA the smog check simply requires a sniffer be inserted in an exhaust pipe and the engine rev'd to 1500 and 2500 IIRC. Gas cap is checked for leaks, too.

Sincerely,

Macster.

 

Macster, do you know if the Durametric is capable of reading the readiness monitors? I've been playing with my durametric for a while but was unable to find anything in the program interface relating to readiness status. I really need to resolve this so I can get registered soon!

 

In the Porsche PIWIS tester it is located under DME-Vehicle data-Ready status. I assume the duraetric tries to emulate the PIWIS. Hope that helps. Also, any shop with a PIWIS tester can use whats called, Short Tests, which forces the ready monitors to set while in the shop. This is a tool I use to verify the repairs I have done without having to use the required drive cycle. It shouldnt take long to do and when finished you can even get a print out with Happy faces on it. Seriously, the sign for ready or not ready is a happy face or a sad face. I laugh every time I see it. Cheers.

 

Thanks for that response. I'm going to give it another shot at the emissions facility and if that fails, off I go to my shop for a PIWIS reset!

 

Hi, Were you able to reset clear the faults with the drive cycle? My car passed the emissions part of the test but there were 3 "sad faces". The tech asked if I had a dead battery because that would trigger the drive cycle parameters to be met. I did recently change the battery and drove it for a couple of weeks but failed the test. The tech said not to go over 3000 rpms ... so it's back to the drawing board. Hope it works

 

I had this not ready problem with my car after driving 400 miles on mixed driving, including some track time. I took it to my tuner who let it idle for 20 minutes and the EVAP finally reset. A real pain in the ***, but if you are having issues, I'd recommend the 20 minute idle, in addition to at least 100 miles of varied road driving.

 

Thanks for the info. I guess I'll just leave it idle for the 20 minutes.

I like how you have your 911 turbo setup. We have a lot of similar mods.

Recently, I found out that I need a new mass airflow sensor. I was getting all sorts of messages. ABS failure, engine failure, PSM failure... The tech told me that with the reflash (imagine auto software) that the duratech reader could not read the codes. Have you ever had this problem?

 

I have not had any problems with the MAF, nor have I had the crazy codes you were getting, but I will now store that in the memory banks just in case it happens to me.

Thanks

 

I found out that a bad MAF can throw all sorts of codes. They say that the stock MAF doesn't handle hp more than 500 very well. They have a system that uses a Hitashi MAF. One is by EVOMS. I replaced mine with a stock one but just wanted people to know there is an option.

 

This is incorrect and you can't go replacing MAFs with alternates without POSSIBLY reprogramming the ECU. I am running over 600 with stock MAF no problem. FWIW, there are multiple kinds of codes....some can be reset by cycling the start-shut down cycle, some will reset with engine time and others can only be reset with PST2 or PIWIS (and most with Durametric).

Fault overview
• In order to ensure that a fault is no longer present after a repair
or after the fault memory has been erased, a short test or test
drive should be performed. Only in this way can you ensure that
all diagnostic routines have been performed by the DME control
module.
• In the case of Tiptronic vehicles, the Tiptronic fault memory must
also be read out, because activation of the Check Engine MIL
can also be initiated by the Tiptronic.
• The fault memory must always be deleted after repairs.