Hi guys, Ive searched and searched and looked in the knowledge base. But is there a clear DIY guide to taking the turbos off??? I spoke to my porsche tech and he says the oil scavenge pipe and oil feed pipes always snap off. Is this true? Thanks guys!!

 

they don't snap off but the head is easy to round , just to be sure, heat them up well with a torch before you try too hard. You will need to replace the check valve and filter on top of the turbo, it is a good to change it after a while no matter what.

On my passenger side, after 2 swap, i need to order 2 new pipes because the fitting is starting to be round. They are about 50$ a pipe.

Otherwise it is pretty straight forward.

Take off bumper, exhaust intercoolers and then remove plumbing around turbo, it is easier to remove the headers attached to the turbo. Took me around 3 hours taking my time last week.

The only thing that might make you wonder is the oil tank under the turbos, there is one bolt you can see but the other one you need to go through the drain plug to take it off.

While you are in there it is a good time to change the coil packs and the spark plugs.

 

Thanks for the info pumalex!! If the pipe does get rounded and needs replacing is it true that the engine has to be removed to fit this pipe?

 

when i took the turbos off, the pipes were fine. be careful with them, use line wrenches. i also took them off with the headers per the manual. last time i did this it took me 2 hours from start to finish, first time i did it - it took about 4.

 

on the passenger side no, on the driver i would think so.

 

Passenger side was easy bolt off bolt on.
Drivers side I needed to take the exhaust manifold off.
No pipes needed to be changed. Follow Pumalex instrtuctions.

 

Just a questoin, if u heat the line wont u set the oil alight!!

 

you would have to heat it up a lot, the oil gets very hot in the engine plus the fact that there isn't really any oil in there since it all drains when the engine is stopped. Unless you do it with the engine running

The only thing that might happen is that you burn the o-ring or the little filter inside the check valve fitting

Don't heat it up with a huge garage torch to cut metal, just a little blue plumber propane torch. Try it first to see if it comes loose without that but if you feel the wrench is starting to round the fitting, STOP. Make sure you use a line wrench like someone said before, you know, those thing for the brake lines and such.

 

Hi Yazz,I think how easy it will be depends a lot on how many winters your cars been through, I've just had the turbos off my 04 and had lots of problems.I took them off to replace the nuts/bolts which were very corroded.


I tried to remove the oil lines but there was no way they would come off,they came loose from the oil tank but the fittings wouldn't turn on the oil lines,and the lines were twisting back and forth.
In the end I left the oil tanks in place and seperated them from the bottom of the turbos, as mentioned above the oil tanks are held to the turbos with two bolts,one external and one inside the oil tank. I only just got the external ones off.The heads of the allen bolts were very corroded, and my car is one of the better ones I've seen so they could be more trouble on an older car.

I also had trouble getting the oil tank drain plugs out to get access to the bolt inside,even though I had a perfect fitting allen key they were just rounding.I got a mate to help, he did the allen key while I gripped the edge of the plug with waterpump pliers,with both of us applying some serious force they came off. There was ally corrosion between the side of the plug and the body of the oil tanks.
If I hadn't been able to seperate the oil tanks I would have cut the two oil lines to each tank and replaced them.

I did have to cut the oil feed lines just above the check valve and also the bolts on the support brackets.
Once I'd got this far it was easy to unbolt the manifolds from the heads and remove the turbos complete with manifolds,my head bolts were ok but some people have had them snap.

I thought fitting the new oil feed lines was going to be a nightmare but it was ok, I already had the engine carrier removed and and therefore could easily drop the engine. This also made access easier to the end of the right side oil feed pipe.

My turbo to manifold nuts were too corroded to use tools to remove, so I ground down one side of the nut and then used a chisel to split the nut.
I can't recommend this method enough,this was the part of the job I was dreading but it turned out to be very easy. Once I had the nuts off I was surprised to find the studs were fine and cleaned up nicely using an 8mm die nut.

I then cleaned everything up and refitted with new nuts,bolts,seals and pipe clamps etc.I also shotblasted/painted the actuators and set them up using a pressure tester.

Overall it was a very difficult job with one problem after another, pretty much all caused by corrosion.


And

 

Guys Major issues!! We started the procedure of removing the turbos yesterday evening. The exhaust came off easy, the nuts to the manifold to turbo studs came off easy by just heating them. But the oil lines are being a PITA!!! We tried line wrenches, spanners, adjustable wrench, heating them, lubing them...EVERYTHING!! They just WILL NOT come off!! I am fearing that we will have to cut off all the oil lines and then replace them all Thats made the quick turbo swap VERY VERY expensive!

 

Have you read my post above in which I had this exact issue?

 

Yes I read that. I will do this
Once u chizzel the nut, does it just snap off. or do u use the chizzel to push the nut round.

 

the chisel is not for the oil pressure line, it was for the corroded nuts.

Make sure you heat the check valve, not the oil line itself.