I'm getting 0 to .5 Bar on 01 turbo dash display
 

mostly it runs at 0, but got it up to .5 at 5500 RPM once. Is this normal? Does 0 mean 0 pressure in turbos and so not working?? dealership just told me waste gates are not adjustable has to be done through chip? Is that correct. I'm taking it to Dyno on Saturday; that guy says he can adjust easily? Thanks

check for pressure leaks....get the codes read and post them. Wastegates can be adjusted. does not sound like you need tune adjustments, it sounds like something is wrong.

My car won't go past .4 bar on the gauge sometimes. It ended up being the N75 valve, google it. The part is $26 bucks, same thing happened to my friends car. Not saying this is whats wrong, just another option.

Sounds like a boost leak but I imagine you would get a CEL.

Did you not test drive the car before you bought it? And also no PPI?

yes PPI at dealership, but they said nothing. Are you positive 0.0 - 0.5 is evidence of mal function. Saturday I'll do 0-60MPH and see how close to 4 seconds it is, then dyno is scheduled too.

Does anyone know what HP would be without turbos and with??

Should be reading 0.7 bar at max boost for a 2001 with K16s.

Could be a boost leak or bad MAF. I had a bad MAF a few years ago and would not go above 0.5 bar (limp mode).

Wowza, just wow.

RTFM?

0 bar = no boost = 300Hp

Try racing a Pontiac Aztec or a smart car 2go...

Easy answer.

Is MAF the one on freash air intake? What about one on black turbo Y pipe? That is a MAP max air pressure? Could that cause boost problems too?

I honestly would check for leaks first before replacing any parts.

Aslo, make sure you give it full throttle up to about 6k rpm. If you don't, it would be possible to only see 0.5 bar.

does anyone know what would happen if I take the N75 waste gate valve off completely. I was thinking with the valve gone and a boost leak I might top at 1bar or so??

Jeez! Like I told you in the other thread that you posted about this: If you run with the N75 disconnected you run the risk of blowing up the motor. OTOH, I suspect that you have a huge leak and might not be able to get enough boost pressure to blow it up.

An awful lot of people who are knowledgeable have told you what to do. Check first for boost leaks. Check the operation of your diverter valves. Do this systematically. Stop asking questions, stop pushing the car hard, and get it diagnosed!!

Jon

1) how would I blow up motor if I keep pressure to 1 bar or less?
2) I suspect I have small leak since I can boost now to .6 bar
3) I just changed diverter values since checking them is all but impossible
4) checking for leaks is tough unless you can do it from turbos. I'd guess a shop would charge $500 just for starting.

Also, my understanding is that the N75 normally keeps waste gates open, and they don't start closing until a lot of power is demanded by building turbo pressure and ECU electrical input? So no N75 ought to mean no boost and no chance to blow up motor-right?

5) the forums are for asking questions in large part I thought.

In order of your questions:
1) How will you guarantee that you stay below 1 bar if you disable the boost control valve?
2) Your leak is huge. Your turbos could make 1.2 bar or more if they weren't venting to the atmosphere.
3) Actually, you can vacuum test them. But it made no difference, correct? You are now just throwing parts at the car instead of diagnosing.
4) There are several threads here telling you how to build a boost leak tester from under $20. It won't find everything, but it will probably find your big leak to get started.
5) OK, let me re-phrase: Stop asking questions if you are not going to pay any attention to the answers.

Here is the thread I pointed you to already:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-oh-dear.html
This guy's shop left the N75 valve disconnected and blew up his motor. See the explanation in Posts #16-18.

If you STILL want to disconnect your N75 and go boost testing, bring your AAA card for the tow and your checkbook for the rebuild.

In order of your questions:
1) How will you guarantee that you stay below 1 bar if you disable the boost control valve?

******I assume if there is no valve to shut waste gates there is no boost.

2) Your leak is huge. Your turbos could make 1.2 bar or more if they weren't venting to the atmosphere.

*****all I've read says that a stock 996 turbo will make .7 boost tops

3) Actually, you can vacuum test them. But it made no difference, correct? You are now just throwing parts at the car instead of diagnosing.

******its easier and cheaper and some fun too and i don't think a pro will find one simple problem anyway, especially since new N75 gets me to .6 bar. If I do tune will it allow me to adjust boost upwards?

4) There are several threads here telling you how to build a boost leak tester from under $20. It won't find everything, but it will probably find your big leak to get started.

*******It seems I never had a big leak just a N75 issue for the most part

5) OK, let me re-phrase: Stop asking questions if you are not going to pay any attention to the answers.

******I promise you I'm paying attention

Here is the thread I pointed you to already:
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...o-oh-dear.html

This guy's shop left the N75 valve disconnected and blew up his motor. See the explanation in Posts #16-18.

********I will look at that for sure

If you STILL want to disconnect your N75 and go boost testing, bring your AAA card for the tow and your checkbook for the rebuild.

*****I do want to understand that