Originally Posted by f1crazydriver
(Post 3811578)
What toe in the rear ?
What are your alignment specs? |
3.2 front negative camber
1/16 toe out up front 1/16 toe in at the rear 2.4 rear negative camber stock front sway/trg drop links gt2/3 rear swaybar / tarret droplinks KW CS with solid hats/ dog bones / toe links / gt2 control arms... |
Originally Posted by f1crazydriver
(Post 3811637)
3.2 front negative camber
1/16 toe out up front 1/16 toe in at the rear 2.4 rear negative camber stock front sway/trg drop links gt2/3 rear swaybar / tarret droplinks KW CS with solid hats/ dog bones / toe links / gt2 control arms... Would you know what are the pros and cons with running 3.0 neg camber in the rear and 2.5 neg camber up front (essentially the reverse of your setup)? |
Originally Posted by 996TWINS
(Post 3811648)
Thank you F1.
Would you know what are the pros and cons with running 3.0 neg camber in the rear and 2.5 neg camber up front (essentially the reverse of your setup)? Just thinking in pure dynamics IMO ... More camber in the rear then the front means, contact patch is less at the rear. it means that the car would have less traction at the rear when not at pushing hard enough to use 3.2 rear camber. ...I'm not saying i'm right but typically the rear dosen't need that much negative camber compare to the front... Look at a Formula 1 car, the front wheels have noticeable more front camber then the rears. The rears, since it is typically more stiff sprung, they dont sway as much, hence the lack of so much rear camber. The front end has more movement, and when your turn the wheel, the outside wheel gets help due to that negative camber, when the wheel rolls over. |
My guess is that somehow you have toe out (negative toe) in the rear which would give you this type of behavior.
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
(Post 3811746)
My guess is that somehow you have toe out (negative toe) in the rear which would give you this type of behavior.
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Got the car back from an alignment shop. The tech's comment was "who ever did it should not touch your car again."
Seeing the before and after specs it was a mess. Looking forward to my next track day. Thank you all for your input. |
Originally Posted by 996TWINS
(Post 3812878)
Got the car back from an alignment shop. The tech's comment was "who ever did it should not touch your car again."
Seeing the before and after specs it was a mess. Looking forward to my next track day. Thank you all for your input. |
Originally Posted by f1crazydriver
(Post 3812887)
What specs did you have ? What specs do you have now ?
Before: -3.0° Toe: 0" After: -3.0° Toe: 1/32" Front right: Before: -2.5° Toe 1/16" After: -3.0° Toe 1/32" Rear left: Before: -2.7° Toe 7/32" After: -2.7° Toe 1/32" Rear right: Before: -2.3° Toe 1/32" After: -2.7° Toe 1/32" The steering angle sensor was way off too. |
996TWINS I have been following this and look forward to hearing how it turns out! Where did you get your 2nd alighnment done? I'm also in Socal (Pasadena Area)
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Originally Posted by gdalton
(Post 3812941)
996TWINS I have been following this and look forward to hearing how it turns out! Where did you get your 2nd alighnment done? I'm also in Socal (Pasadena Area)
Check out House Automotive (board sponsor) in your area. Hear they do great work at a reasonable price. |
Glad you got it sorted out. Now you're going to have to put your H&R bar back on. :)
Later, Steve |
Update. Went to the track yesterday at Big Willow here in SoCal. Removed the rear sway bar after the second session, and the car handled much better. But still does not handle as well as before the suspension "upgrade".
Going to buy a GT3 front bar (I believe it is thicker/stiffer than anything else available, if I am wrong let me know) and hopefully this will bring the cornering speeds up and lap times down. Hopefully, this will be the fix and be done with this issue. |
It sounds like the ride height front to rear is off. These cars are very sensitive to that along with very closely matched tire diameters. If either is off much, horrible and scary handling will result, even if the alignment is perfect. Your spring rates could have upset the ride height. Removing the rear sway should have made the car push or understeer generally speaking. Measure a stock car ride height front to rear and put yours at the same rake angle.
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Originally Posted by nick49
(Post 3828256)
It sounds like the ride height front to rear is off. These cars are very sensitive to that along with very closely matched tire diameters. If either is off much, horrible and scary handling will result, even if the alignment is perfect. Your spring rates could have upset the ride height. Removing the rear sway should have made the car push or understeer generally speaking. Measure a stock car ride height front to rear and put yours at the same rake angle.
nick49, the car was corner balanced after the whole suspension package was installed, and rechecked/adjusted after the 2nd alignment. The tires have all the about the same tread depth. |
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