My car is around 500hp/500tq, it is my daily driver year round. Last week my clutch slipped for the first time when the car hit +1 bar; in 4th gear. Besides repeating the same test to ensure it was indeed slipping I have been driving it easy as to not aggravate things.

I am not exactly flush with cash at the moment but are quite mechanically inclined. I was quoted $1400 for the install if I supplied the new clutch assembly; but are considering doing it myself. This wouldn't be the first clutch I've done on a vehicle on the garage floor by any means.... but I'm not exactly looking forward to it this time of year.

I know there are some trick duel/triple clutch setups out there but I think for what this car is used for I'd be better off with a slightly more aggressive than stock single disk setup retaining the stock DMF.

I think I've narrowed it down to a Spec Stage 2+ for $899.99 on Amazon; if I did it myself I could do the EVOMS GT2 slave conversion for $999.99 and have less into it than a stock clutch replacement w/ labor.

I've had this car for a year and it now has 142kms (89k miles) I have no idea if the clutch / flywheel / Slave cylinder is original or not.

I've had no problems with the stock clutch system up to this point, I also don't think the clutch pedal feels bad as I keep reading on here.

Any input or experience is appreciated.

 

Contact Kevin at UMW, get his advice and matched clutch / flywheel for your needs. I would suggest someone who has done clutch jobs on these cars before, especially if you do the slave mod (if street only - probably skip GT2 slave mod). <note - I have no idea how mechanically inclined you are>

If you mismatch your equipment / mess up the install - it is no small bill / task to redo it. You don't want to end up with a poor feeling clutch. It may be more than you care ot spend, but in the long run - peace of mind and correct the first time.

 

if your doing the clutch by yourself the trans will be out anyway so do the gt2 as an oem setup and save yourself 500$. i did mine for less than 500$ and it was easier than getting the clutch fork in place!

 

What was the final verdict on slave rod length? Stock length, shorten or lengthen? I will be doing this when my clutch gets swapped along with 964RS LWFW, Sachs 999 PP with blue GT3RS disk.

 

I'll vouch for the spec 2+. Mine held 1.4 bar with no problems and is drivable. You will need the gt2 slave setup to make it work.

 

I had my gearbox drilled and tapped with the GT2 slave installed correctly just like it was done at the factory (on the driver's side). The factory GT2 slave rod length is perfect as is. I have a RUF clutch which is a Sachs 999 Motorsport pressure plate with GT2 disk.

 

HI,,I have a few clutches .
Now I have a Sachs High Performance set-up which uses a special GT-2 disc...I love it ,,feels close to stock and holds my 18g power..
I have no GT2 conversion and run the stock Dual Mass flywheel.
You should do yourself a favor and do a search for tons of info and opinions on this subject.
Good Luck..

 

i have left it at stock length for now. still breaking the clutch in

 

"Drivable" doesn't sound that flattering. Are you happy with the setup? You seem to be of the opinion that the GT2 slave setup is a necessity with this clutch. Is this because the stock setup won't hold up to the additional force required to actuate the stronger pressure plate or due to drivability issues?

 

Thanks for the info. I have spent countless hours reading on this site and others and yet there still seems to be some debate on the subject. I'm liking the sound of your setup so far. How long has your clutch setup been like this and have you ever had any slave failures? My stock setup has had zero issues and I find the engagement point and feel just fine. I'm not as hard core as many on this sight as likely not as in tune with my car as those that complain about the stock clutch feel.

 

Not sure why guys constantly try to reinvent the wheel. The German made Sachs 999 Motorsport set up with GT2/3 disc has been a proven clutch for up to 700 hp or so with OEM driveability. Engagement is buttery smooth and progressive. I have over 25k miles with 50+ track days on mine with both the factory and now GT2 hydraulics and have had zero issues. Clutch is still in great shape based on a visual inspection that was done while the engine was out last year. I've driven a friends car with a triple plate carbon clutch and the racket was terrible along with the fact that driveability was horrendous.
I'd rather have a clutch that drives great but has to be replaced every 3 years than one that drives like crap but lasts forever. To each his own however.

 

I get your point. I agree there are proven OEM Porsche type ways of handling the torque requirements as can be observed on the more powerful or race bread models. Where would I get a clutch like yours? Is this the kit sold my AWE as the Sachs 2.5 for $1600 or so? You went to GT2 hydraulics eventually due to personal preference or mechanical failure of the TT system?

 

pwrhound - is this essentially your clutch setup? http://www.evoms.com/product_p/clu997ttl3.htm

 

I'm pretty sure this is what RUF uses:

http://www.sachsperformance.com/Sach...-Pro::193.html

It is a Sachs 999 Motorsport 764 pressure plate with a GT2 disc. When my gearbox was out that is what was written on the pressure plate. The disk is non sprung if you have a dual mass FW or sprung if using a LWFW. This is pretty much what everyone stateside calls their Stage 2.5 or 3 kit. Just ask them what pressure plate is in their kit. The 764 has the highest clamping force. Still drives like OEM.

 

^^ Thank you. When mine goes out I want to replicate your setup.