Installed KW V3 coilovers last night (DIY and a few pics)
#47
I am dropped somewhere between 0.75 and 1.0" and my rear alignment is within spec.
#48
do you have an unusual amount of inside wear? ( btw my earlier comment was general in nature )
#49
Nope, my tires wear pretty evenly across the tread, but my alignment is also within spec in the rear.
#50
Do you have all stock wishbones, dogbones and links? If so that's encouraging.
#53
I realize this was a thread from earlier in the year.....but if I may revisit.....how did this get sorted out, and what are your impressions after a few months?
Other questions......any comparison to H&R RSS coil-overs......and finally, do you recall if your final ride height still had ample room for up-down adjust, or were you close to limits either in front or back.
Thanks in advance.
#54
I still love the KW V3's. I have Bilstien PSS10's on my 997tt and like them pretty well also. I have no experience with H&R.
I had the 996 very low when I installed the KW's. We raised them up a little and the bouncing was gone. There was plenty of room for up and down adjustment.
I had the 996 very low when I installed the KW's. We raised them up a little and the bouncing was gone. There was plenty of room for up and down adjustment.
#55
Question about the front. Did you unbolt the front struts to relieve the pressure and then pop the springs down? I am doing my coilovers this weekend and would love to not have to remove the axle.
#56
Definitely a lot easier if you pop the spring out and wind it down the strut on the front.
There are a couple of choices around the axle, I chose the lesser of all evils IMO.
1. Remove brake caliper
2. Loosen top strut mounts, strut to wheel carrier bolt (remove) and spring base bolt (remove)
3. Remove tie rod end from wheel carrier
4. Pop strut spring out of spring base on strut and wind it down the strut as far as you can
5. Pull down and out at the same time on the strut/wheel carrier and the inboard side of the axle will pop out of the transaxle
6. Keep pulling down and you have enough room to remove the strut.
Install is the reverse, when re-inserting the axle just rotate the brake rotor a little and the splines will line up and then you can pop it back in.
There are a couple of choices around the axle, I chose the lesser of all evils IMO.
1. Remove brake caliper
2. Loosen top strut mounts, strut to wheel carrier bolt (remove) and spring base bolt (remove)
3. Remove tie rod end from wheel carrier
4. Pop strut spring out of spring base on strut and wind it down the strut as far as you can
5. Pull down and out at the same time on the strut/wheel carrier and the inboard side of the axle will pop out of the transaxle
6. Keep pulling down and you have enough room to remove the strut.
Install is the reverse, when re-inserting the axle just rotate the brake rotor a little and the splines will line up and then you can pop it back in.
#57
Thank you.
#58
Got the rears done today but waiting for info to do the fronts. One thing I found that helps with the install in the rear is to reverse the bolt for the shock mount into the wheel carrier. I used various sized hex wrenches to get the holes lined up and then flipped the bolt when putting it in. Much easier as you have better access from the rear for the bolt to go in.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post