I recently installed a set of JRZ Pros with remote canisters and quick disconnects. I took some picture of the installation in case someone tackled this in the future. The rears are pretty straight forward as I routed the hoses through the existing ABS grommet near the shock towers. It's very easy to enlarge the grommets with a razor blade. I then attached the canisters to the roll bar behind the front seat. The fronts take a little time as you have to make sure the hoses do not bind anywhere during the full steering angle. I ended up doing the front a little differently as most people route the canister to the battery area and attach them to the cross braces. I could not mount them there as my car has an additional RUF strut tower brace in that same area. Plus, I did not want to have the canisters exposed to the elements and decided to mount them in the trunk area where they are easily accessible for compression adjustment (rebound is adjusted at the top of the shock). I ended up drilling a hole in the forward part of both wheel wells (don't forget to install grommets to seal the holes and prevent chaffing the hoses) and routed the hose through there and around the ABS pump on the drivers side. The passenger side is largely open although some cars have an auxiliary Bose amp there. I then zip tied the canisters to the trunk liner tucked neatly away in corners of the forward portion of the trunk. For further protection of the hoses, I bought about 10' of 7/16" ID fuel line and cut it open lengthwise with a razor. I then slipped the fuel line over the canister hoses and secured with zip ties. Worked like a champ. With this installation, it is very easy to adjust compression of the rear shocks by simply reaching behind the front seats, and the fronts by simply opening the trunk. I also put a hole in the front shock tower dust covers and so that front rebound adjusters would be accessible for adjustment with the covers in place. I cut open a small piece of fuel line along it's length and placed it around the edge of the opening. This effectively prevents water from running down onto the upper mounts.


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Very clean install - as always.

Is that the Porsche Tequipment rollbar? If it is, I have the same. I wish it'd tie to the rear shock towers rather than the seat belt mounts, but... whatever. For the mom at least.

Do you have any issues with the seat adjustment? I am 6' and have the OEM GT3 seats and a pair of 997 sport seats that I might swap in for longer drives. Or maybe not. I read somewhere that it is tight.

 

Very clean indeed! Send some thoughts on the new shocks once you have time to dial them in. Just bought a set for my m3 (non-pro RS2's) and hoping they live up to the hype!

 

Pulling off my 2 way shocks off the race car is my first winter project. Are there any issues disconnecting the canisters after the shocks have been serviced and dynoed? Just thinking about the reinstall.

 

I'm 5'10 and have no issue with the seat adjustment. When adjusted, I have about 6" of room between the seat back and the cross bar. In other words, plenty of room. I am however using Recaro Spa seats which have a very narrow and thin Kevlar shell and are nowhere near as bulky as the stock seats. The Spas only weigh 8 lbs each.

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I've run these for two seasons now. I've run several versions of JRZs and these are the best shocks I have ever used, period. I run them with 1400/1500# springs.. I would recommend either the dual adjustable monotube remote canister shocks or the single adjustable monotube shocks. The dual adjustable non remote shocks are a less desirable twin tube design. Not saying that's bad as the RS2s are excellent shocks but there is a lot of stuff that has to get crammed into the shock body. From a purely performance standpoint, a monotube shock will be superior to the twin tube design. There is a huge difference in performance when going to the remote canister shocks which contain a lot more oil compared to the non remote versions. I was shocked how much better the remotes are.

 

Hey Park. You will need to bleed out the nitrogen pressure from the canisters prior to disconnecting and reconnection them. When you get them reinstalled and reconnected, you will then need to recharge the canisters with nitrogen, normally 150-250psi depending on preference. Adjusting canister pressure is a fine tuning tool. You will need a special filler valve/gauge along with a nitrogen tank.

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Does the psi effect the dyno #s on the shocks? I know I'm going to get them back perfect, I wonder if I should just mount them so I don't have to disconnect the canisters.

 

The canister charge provides a lifting force to the shock so yes, it will effect the dyno #s but it's minimal. All you need to do is ask them what psi they charged them to and that is what you would recharge them to after reconnecting.

 

copy, thanks!