Setup is KW v3s with 18x9 +30 with 245/30

I'm aiming for GT2 height or slightly lower and I'm guessing I will need at least -2 probably closer to -3 camber up front to tuck the top of the tire in enough. My question is at this height will I be able to get that much camber up front or do I need camber plates and/or (most expensive case) gt3 arms? From what I've read it seems like there are no plates for our cars that allow more than 1 degree of camber adjustment.

Also are there any camber plates that also allow for caster adjustment other than the Ground Control plates?

 

I Just put KW V1 on my car and went the max lowering. It was too low so I raised it up to where it is really very low, looks great and is acceptable.

I am now about 2" lower than stock all around. I checked my rake and it's .250" lower in front than rear. I loosened the nuts on the front strut towers and pulled them all the way outward. I have a slight amount of neg camber on front and rear, toe feels good, I centered the steering wheel by adjusting the tie rods. I also made some adjustable upper control arms and adjusted them longer than stock. The car feels very good drives straight and handles very well. I've taken it over 100 MPH and it feels good at speed, no wandering, etc. I'll be getting it professionally aligned soon.

Sorry not to specifically answer your questions. I'll find out exactly where I am now and where I need to be after it gets aligned.

 

I'm at 96mm front /124mm rear ride heigh which works out to almost 1" lower than GT2 in the front. Stock GT2 is 118-123mm front /133-138mm rear. I am using upper monoball mounts (camber plates) set in the middle of the tub slots in stock configuration and GT3 LCA arms with 11mm of shims per side. Camber is -3.25º in the front.

Camber plates with only get you an additional 1º of camber and you will not be able to get that if your shock have a rebound adjuster at the top of the shock shaft (which KWV3s do) as it would come in contact with the tub as you add additional camber at the top. A better way to do it is to use the GT3 arms with shims as you will be increasing front track as a byproduct. That's always a good thing.

Running a 245/30/18 as you state is a poor choice. That tire is way too short. A proper size on an 18x9 is a 245/40/18 which is 25.5" tall. Your offset of +30 on a 18x9 is also going to give you issues. You will fill find out that you will need to pull out a bunch of castor to clear the front fender liners. I am running an 18x9 ET47 front and it is very tight even when using GT2 fender liners but it does clear lock to lock even with a wider tire like a 245/40 V710.

 

Thanks pwdrhound, the tire size is a typo on my part, they are in fact 245/40. Sounds like you think I will probably need the GT3 arms then, should I even bother with camber plates if that is the case? I know +30 is really pushing it. Not ideal but I had to use spacers for caliper clearance, but I'm confident it can work as a few people on here have already. I was just hoping I could spend 500 for plates instead of 1k for the arms haha

 

GT3 arms are the way to go. I use JRZ upper monoball mounts (camber plates) but have them mounted in the stock configuration. If you flip the plates you will get an additional 1º camber but only if you do NOT have a rebound adjuster on your shock (i.e. stock non adjustable shock). +30 is super aggressive especially considering that as you add shims to the GT3 arms you are pushing out the wheel towards the fenders as you widen the track. Such an aggressive offset then becomes a problem as it effectively increases the turning radius of the wheel and clearance issues start cropping up. My front wheels for example are +47 but with 11mm shims on the LCA they are effectively +36, but retain a smaller turning radius of a +47 which allows me to fit larger tires without clearance issues. Hope that makes sense.

 

It does thank you. I see a radiator bracket mod and maybe wide fenders in my future. Also looks like RSS makes plates for KWs though their design doesnt look like it would alleviate the adjuster clearance issue you were talking about so I'm curious what makes them work.