how long do clutches generally last in 996TT's?
thanks, gary
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That depends on stock/mods and driving style. I would believe a stock car driven normally should last 100k plus. People with modded cars sometimes only get 20k or so.
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All depends on driver/driving style assuming the clutch's torque holding capabilities are above the torque production on the engine(of course). A previous car of mine, both street and hard track duty, had original clutch at over 500k km's...
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Depends on the type of clutch first and then driving style.
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The previous clutch was in my car for over 25K miles (and close to 100 track hours) and had zero measurable wear on the clutch disc when it was removed. None. Zero. Both the pressure plate and flywheels still had the honing marks visible on them. If your clutch is rated for the torque of your engine and you know how to rev match and don't abuse it, your clutch will last the life of the car.
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^spot-on!
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
(Post 4151852)
The previous clutch was in my car for over 25K miles (and close to 100 track hours) and had zero measurable wear on the clutch disc when it was removed. None. Zero. Both the pressure plate and flywheels still had the honing marks visible on them. If your clutch is rated for the torque of your engine and you know how to rev match and don't abuse it, your clutch will last the life of the car.
I normally do clutch in, blip throttle, select gear, clutch out.....but only because I'm lazy to go clutch in, clutch out, blip throttle, clutch in, select gear, clutch out. |
Originally Posted by p556guy
(Post 4151931)
Is there a "proper" way to rev-match these cars?
I normally do clutch in, blip throttle, select gear, clutch out.....but only because I'm lazy to go clutch in, clutch out, blip throttle, clutch in, select gear, clutch out. |
don't need to double clutch, but it still makes it easier on the sychros
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Originally Posted by pwdrhound
(Post 4151852)
The previous clutch was in my car for over 25K miles (and close to 100 track hours) and had zero measurable wear on the clutch disc when it was removed. None. Zero. Both the pressure plate and flywheels still had the honing marks visible on them. If your clutch is rated for the torque of your engine and you know how to rev match and don't abuse it, your clutch will last the life of the car.
A few months back, at over 115K miles I had my 03 Turbo in for a leaking RMS. Tranny had to come out of the car, of course. Tech said the clutch looked "new". No measurable wear. From the friction surface to rivet's flange side measured 1.7mm and that is the dimension given for a new clutch in the factory manual. (Worn out is 0.3mm.) These cars aren't perfect though. The darn original brakes finally wore to the point the warning light comes on every so often now. Time for new front brakes. The car will have around 125K miles on it when I replace the original front brakes. Tech says the rear brakes look to go another 125K miles. |
Very funny Macster but must admit you have the lightest foot on the site.
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I just had my tranny out for a bearing fix. Tech said the clutch looks fine. Put it back together and within 2 days the clutch started slipping. Not impressed. 175K km.
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Originally Posted by Macster
(Post 4152288)
These cars aren't perfect though. The darn original brakes finally wore to the point the warning light comes on every so often now. Time for new front brakes. The car will have around 125K miles on it when I replace the original front brakes. Tech says the rear brakes look to go another 125K miles. What kind of high end performance sports car do you expect to get at least 100k on the original brakes ?? You sound like you're faulting the car/brand for this? These aren't Ford Tauruses or Chevy Impalas. |
think Macster was just being humourous about the awesome life the brakes have given him. Big brakes + easy driver/free-flowing driving routes= long life
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thanks all for the info
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