Getting ready to do a full overhaul of my suspension this winter so the car is ready to go for the spring. Want to buy everything in the next week so any links to what I actually need would be helpful. Based on my research on here and Rennlist as well as speaking with various race teams I know what coilover setup i'm going to be using (Ohlins DFV) but I need to know what else I should put into the suspension so I can just knock it all out at one time (Toe Links/Dogbones/LCA's)?

The car will be an aggressively driven Street car and probably will never see any track time. I just want a compliant, streetable, quiet system to increase handling and ride compared to the OEM but I want the adjustability to run GT2 alignments and not chew up tires every 3k.

Frankly I don't know what is worth investing in for the supporting upgrades and what will be overkill for the use of the car. I want to invest in what will make the biggest impact on performance for a reasonable $$$ but I don't want to throw stupid money at upgrading a part that isn't going to make a noticeable difference in the overall performance increase of the suspension for street driving. I also don't want to upgrade parts that will increase the harshness of the ride quality or add NVH into the cabin.

Here is what I 100% know I will be using:

• Ohlin's DFV Coilovers
• Eibach Front and Rear Swaybars
• RSS Engine Mounts (Not really a suspension upgrade)

What I don't know if I need to upgrade are:

• Adjustable Sway Bar Links
• Rear Adjustable Control Arms
• Rear Adjustable Toe Links
• Lower Control Arms
• Thrust Arm Bushings
• ?????

I appreciate your input gents!

 

You might be able to re-use the stock rear droplinks, but more than likely the fronts will break or won't fit. I like the idea of the Tarett extended ones, but they sell an adjustable set too.

If the fronts don't come with tops you'll need monoballs for the front. Again Tarett makes a nice set.

I would also consider rear toe links, and that's probably about it.

 

Subscribed, you goals align with mine and the only decision I've made thus far are the Ohlins & RSS engine mounts

Are you going with the "off-the-shelf" spring rates or having them revolved by Ohlins for a higher rate springs

 

-Stick with a 100lb front to rear split in springs for RWD, 200lbs for AWD
-Rear adjustable toe arms (PMNA Cup arms are the best). $1000 Add dust boots if you drive the car in the winter.
-Rear toe locking plate kit (Tarett makes one that's cheap) $100
-Rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings (Tarett) $200
-Front and rear adjustable drop links with dust boots (Tarett) $500

Nothing else is needed for a street car. The above items will lock down your rear suspension and greatly help with tire wear. You won't have any additional NVH. Stick with OEM dog bones. Do not waste your money on the adjustable dogbones, they're pointless. Even 996Cups have the same one's that are on our cars. Nothing else is needed unless you want more that -2º camber in the front. In that case front GT3 LCA are what you want. Again, for a street car, no need for it. I'd stick with OEM upper mounts too keep the NVH low. The monoball stuff is nice to keep deflection to a minimum if you're gonna be tracking your car with sticky tires, but not needed for a street car that can't really develop high G loadings on street tires anyway. Align to GT2 specs (maybe more aggressive camber in the front if you can get it with stock LCAs) and call it a day.

 

Subbed, as this is my goal also.

Thanks to 'Hound for the detailed answer here.

-V

 

pwdrhound - Thank you for the informative post as usual. I was hoping you would chime in so I could glean your experience off for my project.

Just want to make sure i'm ordering the right stuff off your list:

• Rear adjustable toe arms (PMNA Cup arms are the best): Where to buy?
• Rear toe locking plate kit (Tarett makes one that's cheap): http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...t01-detail.htm
• Rear solid LCA thrust arm bushings (Tarett): http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...a01-detail.htm
• Front adjustable drop links with dust boots (Tarett): http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm
• Rear adjustable drop links with dust boots (Tarett): http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...lnk-detail.htm

For the swaybar drop links they have options for a Stock or PSS9/10 compatibility or a JRZ/Moton compatibility. Do you know which ones I should get (I can not be lazy and call Tarett as well).

For the LCA's, are the GT3's a suitable alternative (http://www.tarett.com/items/996-997-...t-detail.htm)?

Thank you again for all your help!

 

My installer told me if I kept the OEM tops I'd be unhappy because the rubber will wear out quickly, crack, and then it'll get sloppy.

He doesn't sell parts so it's not like he was trying to milk me for more money. I took his advice and got monoballs...once in a while there's a small clunk when I'm going into a steep driveway and turning.

 

The PMNA cup arms can be purchased though Porsche Motorsport North America. You need to go through someone with a PMNA account and someone that is familiar with these parts as you need to trim the monoball bushing insert to fit the TT subframe. It's not difficult. If you want a cheaper plug and play option, Tarett makes an adjustable toe arms that are about half price at around $500.

You want the JRZ/Moton rear drop links for the Ohlins. You will need to purchase a spin on drop link bracket for the rear shocks as I don't believe they come with one. At least their brochure does no show it. Tarett makes a very nice set with a locking screw.

Tarett sells the OEM GT3 control arms. They can be purchased with mono ***** and solid thrust arm bushings but for the street that is overkill. I don't think you will need these as you will be able to get close to -1.75º camber in the front just due to the lowering. If you opt for the Tarett upper mounts, those can be flipped and give you an extra degree or so. I'll PM you some more info..

 

The OEM upper mounts are good for 50-70K miles in most cases.. You'll find some with even more without issues. If you drive on beat up roads all the time, it will be less. Monoballs will get beat up with time and the elements (especially for cars driven year round) and once they develop even a tiny bit of play, let the clunking begin. Pick your poison...

 

FYI - Just to keep everyone informed on what actually needs to be ordered from Tarett. According to Tarett, the front adjustable drop links do not need brackets so make sure you put it in the notes section when you order that you're using the Ohlins Coilovers so they can modify your drop links for you prior to shipping.

 

Yes, that is correct. I have the DFVs and went through several droplinks trying to figure it out. The fronts need extended without brackets. The rears are not as long but they don't need brackets either..

 

Link for Ohlins purchase. Also, recommended spring weights (both AWD and RWD). Thanks.

 

I can't say for certain how many miles mine had on the tops with H&R springs...from my research it looks like these were installed by the 3rd owner, and I'm the 4th. I'd estimate the springs have been on the car for 20k miles, and the tops were completely blown-out.

It just made sense to me that the monoballs would last longer, especially when I would have needed to purchase new OEM tops anyway.

 

call frank hes a Ohlins Dealer, oh and he just installed the gt3 ohlins DFV's on his car you probably can get a test drive to see how they feel.

gt3 DFV ohlins needs some additional parts to work on the 996tt but it can be done you get more height adjustment this way.

 

I can help as well, we've been an Ohlins dealer for 5 years.