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P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input

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  #16  
Old 01-26-2015, 07:36 PM
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brand new bosch alt. less than 2/3 k miles.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 08:58 PM
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Mine usually sits about 3 or 4 days each week and I drive it fri/sat/sun. Maybe try and AGM battery, or hookup a voltmeter and check for current draw when parked/locked.
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 09:07 PM
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Do you keep a battery tender connected when sitting?
 
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Old 01-26-2015, 11:21 PM
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Brand new stock alternator right? Have you added much in the way of current draw? A higher amp alternator might be needed but damned if I know where to source one for our cars - may need one myself soon...
 
  #20  
Old 01-26-2015, 11:42 PM
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After putting my motor together, I wanted to make 100% sure both cam banks were timed correctly. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can probably determine a bad sensor very quickly. The square wave is the cam trigger profile and the thin black lines are the crank trigger.


 
  #21  
Old 01-26-2015, 11:55 PM
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An alternator rebuild shop could probably up the amp output but they are rare these days..
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:24 AM
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Originally Posted by p556guy
Mine usually sits about 3 or 4 days each week and I drive it fri/sat/sun. Maybe try and AGM battery, or hookup a voltmeter and check for current draw when parked/locked.
thats' the oddity of it all. new(ish) battery mfg date is ( 3/14 ) no undue draw ( that I'm aware of?! ) i barely listen to music since my 03 has the MOST system which is laughable ( i work ( when i do ) in music production ) so it is is barely tolerable to listen. completely unlike the analog system in my old long gone MY '02 that sounded absolutely incredible for an analog system. ( anyone that knows firsthand the sound degradation that occurred going from pre-MOST to MOST knows what i mean ) it's truly an atrocity. so it's not a new increased usage of current per se? if it is? there is a parasitic drain somewhere.

i really just believe i had forgotten my own advice and with the "somewhat" colder weather the car has been sitting about longer that usual and i have forgotten to keep it trickle charged every few days. again, since i have left it on the tender, not ONE code or cel. strange, but true. and again, of COURSE i immediately bought myself a now possibly unnecessary CPS.

we shall seed over the next few days, as i'm visiting my tech sat and if it shows symptoms again, i'll likely just sway the CPS and see if that solves it once and for all. but again, no CEL since charging and the symptoms all point to a low battery as a potential cause of this code. i remember well, learning the oddities of the things that would go south merely owing to a low battery they were incredible. radio on/off at will. cels, you name it. weird stuff.

anyone without a trickle charger is cheating time lol
 

Last edited by '02996ttx50; 01-27-2015 at 05:37 AM.
  #23  
Old 01-27-2015, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by itguy
After putting my motor together, I wanted to make 100% sure both cam banks were timed correctly. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can probably determine a bad sensor very quickly. The square wave is the cam trigger profile and the thin black lines are the crank trigger.
that is so far beyond the ( ahem ) scope of my abilities as to be shameful, but the advice is appreciated. it would be super helpful to know if in fact the sensor IS faulty ( esp since i have a new one sitting here ! ) but i dont have access to a pwiss (sp?!) porsch tester or even a dura pro! my handheld has allowed me at least to screen capture the code and clear. same code every time. never any deviation, but again, none since a ( presumably ) full charge! again, i can only hope. thx for chiming in, I've read of your current build stuff. *mostly* way over my head, but read nonetheless. thx.
 
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Old 01-27-2015, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMGK
Brand new stock alternator right? Have you added much in the way of current draw? A higher amp alternator might be needed but damned if I know where to source one for our cars - may need one myself soon...
nothing added. brand new bosch. i mess with stuff, and cut corners where i feel i can. but do NOT rebuild alts or mess with changing out VR's. not worth it, in my estimation. not for a NEW 435$ part that is OEM/Bosch.

*pelican* cannot be beat.

Originally Posted by rmc1148
An alternator rebuild shop could probably up the amp output but they are rare these days..
i see no point! nothing is "new"! but thx for the advice.
 
  #25  
Old 01-27-2015, 05:36 AM
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My car has been in the stereo shop for a few weeks, can't help but think I should've taken my tackle charger in with the car! Since swapping out my ignition switch it's been able to go way way longer without needing it though.

I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
 
  #26  
Old 01-27-2015, 05:45 AM
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Originally Posted by BLKMGK
My car has been in the stereo shop for a few weeks, can't help but think I should've taken my tackle charger in with the car! Since swapping out my ignition switch it's been able to go way way longer without needing it though.

I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
all i can say from having had two of these last 7 years is that they EAT volts. this is all ( probably ) a mere result of my forgetting to trickle charge. don't take more than a day or two to drain them enough to have issues crop up, and we never first understand what the source actually is! as in my case of p0342, i mean CPS low input bank one circuit low wtf!? probably nothing at ALL to do with the code/cel. if ever i have to actually leave my car i demand they leave it on a trickle or better still just disconnect it if it's days at a time sitting.

i actually think we're fortunate in that the NEW boschs is *reasonably* affordable at the 435. why i didn't mess with alternatives. never a second thought. btw, when my alt went south? was at constant 14 on gauge and i was pleased! until..... lol
 
  #27  
Old 01-27-2015, 07:24 AM
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Originally Posted by rmc1148
An alternator rebuild shop could probably up the amp output but they are rare these days..
Call 2kRacing in Reseda, 818-344-4410

The guy's father started the place years ago as an auto-electric shop and a few of their employees still work there who can do that kind of work. I used to go to them for all my alternator work...they've probably rebuilt alternators in 5 or 6 of my cars throughout the years.

I think the dude just bought a 997.1 turbo too actually.
 
  #28  
Old 01-27-2015, 07:27 AM
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'02996ttx50 - do you have a standard battery or a sealed unit?

If it's a standard one, pull off the caps (carefully to avoid spray) and check the water levels.
 
  #29  
Old 01-27-2015, 08:23 AM
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BLKMGK mentioned possibly needing a higher output alternator that's why I mentioned the rebuild shop, they use to be common in my area.
 
  #30  
Old 01-27-2015, 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by p556guy
'02996ttx50 - do you have a standard battery or a sealed unit?

If it's a standard one, pull off the caps (carefully to avoid spray) and check the water levels.



I did just check for that very reason, thinking one of the cels might be low, but it's a sealed unit. I'm gonna have aaa come test it but it'll give a deceptively hi amp reading since I now have it fully trickled and "charged".


if its faulty I'd like them to replace it since its so "new".
 


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