P0342 Camshaft Position Sensor Circuit Low Input
#19
Brand new stock alternator right? Have you added much in the way of current draw? A higher amp alternator might be needed but damned if I know where to source one for our cars - may need one myself soon...
#20
After putting my motor together, I wanted to make 100% sure both cam banks were timed correctly. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can probably determine a bad sensor very quickly. The square wave is the cam trigger profile and the thin black lines are the crank trigger.
#22
i really just believe i had forgotten my own advice and with the "somewhat" colder weather the car has been sitting about longer that usual and i have forgotten to keep it trickle charged every few days. again, since i have left it on the tender, not ONE code or cel. strange, but true. and again, of COURSE i immediately bought myself a now possibly unnecessary CPS.
we shall seed over the next few days, as i'm visiting my tech sat and if it shows symptoms again, i'll likely just sway the CPS and see if that solves it once and for all. but again, no CEL since charging and the symptoms all point to a low battery as a potential cause of this code. i remember well, learning the oddities of the things that would go south merely owing to a low battery they were incredible. radio on/off at will. cels, you name it. weird stuff.
anyone without a trickle charger is cheating time lol
Last edited by '02996ttx50; 01-27-2015 at 05:37 AM.
#23
After putting my motor together, I wanted to make 100% sure both cam banks were timed correctly. If you have access to an oscilloscope, you can probably determine a bad sensor very quickly. The square wave is the cam trigger profile and the thin black lines are the crank trigger.
#24
*pelican* cannot be beat.
i see no point! nothing is "new"! but thx for the advice.
#25
My car has been in the stereo shop for a few weeks, can't help but think I should've taken my tackle charger in with the car! Since swapping out my ignition switch it's been able to go way way longer without needing it though.
I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
#26
My car has been in the stereo shop for a few weeks, can't help but think I should've taken my tackle charger in with the car! Since swapping out my ignition switch it's been able to go way way longer without needing it though.
I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
I might still have an alternator shop in my town but I'd hesitate to take my existing working alternator, I'd want it for a backup just in case. I did get a high amp one wound for my Supra and it helped for sure!
i actually think we're fortunate in that the NEW boschs is *reasonably* affordable at the 435. why i didn't mess with alternatives. never a second thought. btw, when my alt went south? was at constant 14 on gauge and i was pleased! until..... lol
#27
The guy's father started the place years ago as an auto-electric shop and a few of their employees still work there who can do that kind of work. I used to go to them for all my alternator work...they've probably rebuilt alternators in 5 or 6 of my cars throughout the years.
I think the dude just bought a 997.1 turbo too actually.
#30
I did just check for that very reason, thinking one of the cels might be low, but it's a sealed unit. I'm gonna have aaa come test it but it'll give a deceptively hi amp reading since I now have it fully trickled and "charged".
if its faulty I'd like them to replace it since its so "new".