you might want to look into the new bbi clutch slave eliminator that house auto in pasadena ca has now begin to sell/install. ( whatever the official name is I'm sure that aint it ) but for the 1100 bucks?! it eliminates the need for the system to share the pentosin for the clutch and the power steering as it comes from the same reservoir in the engne comp.

it's an alternative to the drill and tap method which requires tapping into the case? and essentially closing off one of the lines ( i'm explaining this as inexpertly as possible..sorry perhaps someone here will come in and clean up the confusion I've just caused! ). bottom line is, that was the only way ( well there were two..of eliminating the system sharing the fluid. the other required some cheap a** bracket iirc? )

those are your choices, and all are an improvement over keeping the system "stock". the pentosin is the chs 11. or used to be called pentosin 202. same shyte.

i've put off this conversion for a total of 3 accumulators and one clutch slave and couldnt say why exactly, but pretty sure if had to do with thinking i might one day sell the car, and some pu**y would want./need the hydraulically assisted clutch, but maybe its just because thats the way it came stock. it doesn't work any better for having kept it. that's for sure.

add: email this guy if interested ask about the slave kit: Jason Rangsipat || Sales & Service Advisor

HOUSE Motorsports
3820 E Colorado Blvd Ste A
Pasadena, CA 91107
(626) 539-2911
www.HouseMotorsports.com
www.HouseAutoGroup.com

 

Thanks for the info on the slave. I'll look into that if I can figure out who it is exactly doing it.

As for my existing slave I got a few minutes in the garage tonight so I removed that black ball reservoir and gained access to the bolt. Lone behold it's a 15 mm which was part of my struggles the night before. The other bolt was a 17 mm so no wonder I could never get my socket to catch. Looks like at some point someone lost one of the factory 15mm headed bolts and replaced it with a different one.

Any how slave is disconnected. Removed the 10mm bolt and hold down bracket from the left side of the transmission. Went to remove the plastic plug to expose the threads to pull out the lever holding in the clutch fork but the pliers kept slipping off the plastic cap. Ugg, try again tomorrow night.

 

are we having fun yet? i used a small pryer and the side of the trans to edge the bar against the plug and pop it out. its solid so no worry about breaking it. no threads its just shoved on the end of the clutch fork rod

 

do gt2 conversion, it will pay off at the end,

 

Ah thanks for the tip. I'll give that a whirl later tonight I hope.

I'm definitely looking into my options before this transmission goes back. I read a little on it the other night and it looks like its more complex than just swapping slaves. The drilling and tapping part doesn't bother me at all, it's the lines and routing I need to figure out and the changes by the power steering. Do I need a new clutch master cylinder etc. I need to figure all that out.

I hate more delays lol. Had to pick up a friends car yesterday evening. She hydroplaned into barrier on the highway yesterday and destroyed the outer tie rod end. The front wheels point in different directions lol. Hopefully getting her back on the road won't take long.

 

Always something, hang in there. I would go with GT2 set up or look into the new slave that eliminates our set up.

 

If the new slave works like a GT2 slave but doesn't have the engagement point issues then I'm all for it.

 

Couldn't answer that we will have to wait for an impartial owner install.

 

FWIW...the clutch disc thickness has more to do with the clutch engagement point than the slave.

To do the GT2 set up, drill a whole, then drill and thread two small holes for the studs...bam it's mounted.

I just plugged my pwr steering lines with a bolt and hose clamp. I also pulled the pwr steering pump and pulled out the little coupler...its sort of a pain but not terrible.

SO you end up buying a gt2 slave, you also need to replace the master cyl. Flush the lines.

optional are the master reservoir cap and the assist spring.

I did buy the assist spring since the one on my car had been removed.

Thats the basics of it...I am SO glad I did it when the trans was out...

 

What is with the fork, must be also changed or?
I have nearly all the parts together, only the slave and new fork are missing, now Im looking to sell everything and buy the BBI part...
still not sure which way to go

 

oh crap thats right... I forgot. That was the thing that pushed me over the edge. I had some wear on the pads of the fork and my car had been making this creaking sound when pressing the clutch in and out.

I'm still not sure what it was exactly but we thought the wear may have been the culprit. Since I had to replace it anyway, I decided to do the whole conversion.

 

If you can wait it out...I highly suggest looking into the new setup from BBi that we've been working on them with!

https://www.6speedonline.com/forums/...rsion-kit.html

We've got a couple pre-orders in already at this time - definitely excited to see what the public feels about the improvements with this new kit when these finally make their way out to owners and get installed. !

 

That looks amazing. That thread says estimated to release in June? Is this still on track? I'm ready to drive my car. If this will be ready any day I'd be willing to leave my car down a few days and get one.

 

Starting to feel compromised. This clutch is Huge! Recently sold it, thanks hound and 32Krazy!


I think the recent update will greatly enhance its engagement.

 

First batch is in the final production stages - and yes still slated for a mid June ship date! You have a PM as well, thanks!

- Jason