So for others after reding this thread here's the instruction set offered by tarret after multiple emails from myself and other members here


Extended Bracket Adjustment

1) You can start on either side. It’s best to do this with the suspension loaded, but usually not practical, and not absolutely required. Disconnect the drop link from the swaybar on one side.
2) With the wheels pointing straight forward, rotate the other bracket on the strut, in either direction while observing the swaybar moving up and down. Stop with the bar in its lowest position.
3) Tighten (19 ft-lbs) the pinch screw to lock it in place.
4) Repeat for the other side by disconnecting the link you just adjusted, and finding the optimum position on the other side.
5) Lock it in position and connect both drop links.
6) Rotate the steering in both directions (lock to lock), making sure the rod ends are orientated such that they will allow full rotation without binding.
7) Rotate the steering in both directions (lock to lock), making sure that there is no contact or interference between the bracket and drop link. Readjust the brackets slightly if needed to clear.

What this does is makes it so that as you turn in either direction, the swaybar will be pulled up on both sides by about the same amount. This, in turn, will eliminate/minimize any windup of the swaybar due to steering input. The end result is more consistent handling, and less understeer on tight turns.


Setting Drop Link Preload and Rod End Phasing

Setting the link length to about the same size as stock is a good starting point. For #996FDLNK, set length to allow for swaybar arm to be relatively parallel to the LCA, with the suspension loaded. The drop links install the same as the stock ones. It’s not critical, but you should try to get the swaybar close to perpendicular to the drop link. For the front on a C4, it’s most important to make sure that the swaybar does not contact the axle when the suspension is compressed. Then make sure it doesn’t contact the lower control arm when the suspension is hanging. Clearing the axle is more important if you need to choose between the two. In many cases the front swaybar will lightly contact the LCA when the suspension is hanging.

With the car on flat ground, you can adjust out preload by adjusting the drop link length on one side. The front wheels need to be pointing straight ahead. With the locking nuts loose, rotate the link in either direction to make the drop link shorter or longer. If you rotate the wrong direction, the preload will increases, and it will get harder to rotate the link. Rotating the correct direction will make it easier to turn. At the point of no preload, you will feel the link be completely loose.

Next step is to phase the rod ends so they don't bind. You can do this with the car off the ground, and the wheels off for better access. Be careful not to rotate the links much and throw off your preload. The back is easy, requiring that the rod ends be relatively parallel to each other. The front requires much more attention. With the wheels pointing straight ahead, rotate both rod ends the same direction completely, as far as they will go. Tighten the loose locking nut. Rotate the steering to full lock in both directions, checking for any binding by rotating the complete link (with rod ends) in either direction. The rod ends should still have some room to allow for some rotation before they are maxed out. If they bind in one lock position, and not the other, you may need to do some fine tuning on the phase angle between the rod ends so there is no binding in either lock position. Now tighten the locking nuts on each link.

 

Everything seems to be holding up after the "fix". Questions to others about setting. I have it set at 15 currently and am getting signifant bounce at 90-105 mph. Lower speeds seems great . Should I go up or down ?

 

^^ Interested to know that as well. I am set at 13 F&R but flat spotted some tires that are on backorder so I can't really go 100mph for the next few months.

 

Talked to Ohlins Tech today and from my 15 setting they suggested going to 20 for the compression adjustment and work backwards as a response to the washboard roads that I hit at 90-120mph this weekend. I'll report back
BTW, the information from Ira @ Tarret was helpful to get car set up. After 250 mile trip this weekend and a quick look under car jack, links are holding fine.

 

Car is in the shop. Checked the front drop links and found both damaged.

 

That's unfortunate, which suspension set do you have ?

 

Ohlins DFV with the Tarrett drop links

 

This is becoming all too familiar with coil overs and not just Ohlins. Hope you get it sorted.

 

See my posts above regarding communication with Ira @ Tarret and his proposed fix. Does take a bit of fine tweaking when following his instructions but basically mounting the links on the inside of sway bar and adding washers will leave wiggle room for coil over adjustments .
Ira has been more than helpful in resolving the situation. Wish we had that info in the beginning that would have made each of our installs simpler

 

You really need a competent installer when setting up these suspensions. Having someone set up a suspension only to later find out there is binding and damage to components is inexcusable. I always tell people after installs to check for binding through full travel of the suspension and lock to lock of the steering in the front. It's also a good idea to wrap drop links and other low clearance areas with blue painters tape and then go drive the car. If there are any interference areas, it will be clearly visible on the painters tape..

On the TT AWD front uprights, it also helps to grind down the inside area by the upright pinch bolt as that is where you will generally see interference with the drop link at large steering angles. Removing about an 1/8 -3/16" makes a big difference.

 

ya know.... ???!

 

Very wise words from Pwdrhound and yes Mark I'm getting to know....

I think you really need to find the right installer that has done this many times before with positive outcomes and this bring me to my dilemma as I dont think there is a competent installer in my area....

 

Where were you 2 weeks ago ?????

My installer was pretty competent but guess not completely. I believe the stock links would not have rubbed as was Porsche's wisdom to make them out of different materials and so thin

 

If you look at post #9 of this thread (copied below), the picture that RacingTwinJason posted is that of of my old set up I ran years ago when AWD. You can see how the portion of the upright by the pinch bolt is ground down (the shiny area) to create room for the drop link at large steering angles. Grind down a 1/4" there are your problems will largely be solved. Also note the orientation of the drop link bracket. Finally note that my drop link was mounted on the outside of the sway bar as normally done, NOT the inside. There is a lot of trial and error involved in making sure there is no interference. The whole problem is the AWD upright which takes up a lot of room as it rotates due to the swept back geometry of it. None of these problems are present when RWD uprights are used. Your other problem appears to the the stock Ohlins brackets which are shorter than the Tarett ones. The higher your attachment point is, the more clearance you will have. Hope this helps..

 

Originally, my installer attached the drop links to the outside of the sway bar and close to perpendicular. With the new replacement links, he attached them to the inside of the bar with both ends pulled up from perpendicular. Clearance is still not generous - hopefully enough. I haven't had the chance to drive much since the fix, but will report back after a few hundred miles.