Great! All clear now.. I will order additionally GT3rdlnk and should send back the shorter turbo rears, huh... happy I'm not alone here, thank you!

 

If going to use slicks what would you recommend? I have access to michelin, pirelli and maybe some others but not to US brands like nittos, hoosier, etc..

my 18 rims are OEM hollow twists ONLY 8J / 11 J so no 8.5/12
my 19 rims are 8.5 / 12 J but guess they arent first choice for slicks

thanks!

 

Ideally you want to run as wide a rim as possible for slicks so you can stretch the sidewall a tad, a 9/12 or even better a 9.5/12.5. With the narrow 8/11s, I'd run Pirelli Pzero 235/645-18 (or 245) and 305/645-18. If you are RWD, I'd opt for a taller 305/660-18 rear which has a better load rating even though it's designed to be used as a front tire.

 

Thank you for your answer! I'm RWD so going for 305-660-18 and considering also some cayman rears to buy for a quick fix, might find 9 or 10J

The 27/68-18 michelin from Cups is too big, isnt it ? What would be the max rear tire and keeping the car at optimum clearance for track (bellow gt2 height) ? Would that be 660 or we might get even 670 or 675, I can still order 315-675-18 Pirelli here

Another question would be, we want Medium compound fronts and Hard rears, right ?

 

The 27/68-18 Miche Cup tire is very tall at 26.7. Clearance will be an issue unless you are running stiff springs on the order of 1500 or so to limit compression. With soft springs you would have to run the ride height higher than optimum but it could still be done. I'd try it. The wheel well on a 6cup is much deeper than on the TT due to the limitation we have with the inlet duct above which takes up room. The 660 is 26.3" and more reasonable. With that said, I like to run as tall a rear tire as you can stuff in there. The taller the tire, the bigger that contact patch. The 315/675-18 (now discontinued and replace with 315/680-18) is huge and a perfect wheel offset and ride height will need to be selected. I have a set of the 315/675s at home.

The medium tires are super soft. Don't mix and match unless you are having issues with understeer that you can't dial out. In that case you could run medium front and hard rears. The car will typically understeer with slicks a little more (which is good) than R compounds or streets. You might need to stiffen the rear bar a notch. I'd run the DH (dry hard) front and rear. Our cars are heavy and will eat up the mediums. Hope that helps.

 

Yes it helps for sure, Mr. Porschepedia Great answer and knowledge, thanks

 

No prob..

 

refreshed brake calipers, new seals etc

also powder coated calipers and Ypipe- covered MAF with a metal piece and painted over

added 2 switches into the glovebox for FULL PSM OFF and another one for some USB that will connect gopros inside the car

ONE NOTE:

had a discussion with KW Germany regarding the install of the second springs and they said for

REAR suspension the helper springs should be installed in the LOWER part
and for
FRONT the helper springs should be installed close to the topmounts

My KW v3 came with helpers only for the rears and they were installed in the lower position, for fronts there were no helpers.

Ordered top mounts and helpers to make the supsension close to clubsport event I didnt send it to KW for revalving, yet..

 

Looks nice Fadi. There really is no difference between running tenders on top or bottom of the mains. I run them at the base, other run them on top. JRZ/Moton/MCS will tell you it does not matter. Not sure why KW is telling you something different unless their spring seats are specific for helpers or mains or their front spring connecting piece would not clear the shock body. Don't know.

I would also remove the powder coating from the base of the caliper mounting lugs, the flat surface that is in contact with the upright. That should be masked off prior to painting/PC. Brembo specifically prohibits painting of that area, it need to be bare metal to metal at the contact point to prevent any looseness to develop from the compression of the powder coat layer over time. There should also be no paint under the caliper bolt heads on the caliper for this same reason. You will also notice that on the OEM calipers Brembo masks off the brake pad locating pins leaving them bare metal to allow the pad to slide on them easier.

 

At that point with those shiny new looking calipers, I would sell at least the front calipers e.g. to a older Porsche or something and invest in 6-pot front calipers from a 996GT2/GT3, not the best kit available, but a lot of improvement for small money!

My friend sells e.g. adapters to 944/968 cars etc for those particular calipers,
http://9xx-parts.com/store/porsche-9...s-9p-baf44-tgt

http://9xx-parts.com/store/porsche-9...s-9p-bar44-tgt

So you could really get some decent money of them and invest in better brakes. Because you surely need them! Just think about a 996 GT3 mk2, that car came over 10 years ago, it had LESS power than stock 996 Turbo but better brakes...

Pwdrhound's choice of a full 997GT 380mm kit seems to be a great idea, but for a lot less money you could improve a lot even with the 996GT front calipers. I would recommend the GT3 master cylinder change in any case then.

 

Are the brake pads the same? I have already racing fresh pads front and rear

 

Now they aren't, if you change to bigger calipers the pads will be larger...and more expensive.

But still again, with your new pads it's a great idea to provide a great brake upgrade package to somebody's 911/944/968/996 with new parts

Sure you can do it later, but trust me, you will be searching for better brakes already this season.

 

I would do what Kai says Fadi. At a very minimum space out the calipers you have and run 350/350 rotors. The gt3 six pots are the way to go. The pad is much larger and soaks up more heat. 380/350 is best but $$$ to do it right...

 

I have the spacer kit to run 350/350 and also upgrading from oem rotors to Giros, so might feel some improvement

Brakes will follow soon, not IF but WHEN, not 100% sure will be this season but I know they will be at least 996gt2/gt3 or 997.1 Turbo as I know they are the same, will hunt for some 380mm 997.2 too

Seems my new tires 245/35/19 8.5J rim, are hitting the radiator bracket, thats strange as before I ran 245/40/18 on a 8J rim and was close but not hitting, seems I have to cut and bend the bracket as I plan to buy some new 18 rims (9.5-10J fronts and 12-12.5J rears)

Do you guys roll fenders in front too ? I am just before painting and this is the right time to do it, will do the rear fenders (running gt2 liners F+R) but the fronts seem like they have a lot of tolerance, not sure we need rolling fenders even with 265-275 fronts

I am building now a half cage to be able to install correctly the Schroth 6 point belts, dont know why but my guess is 2017 will be fullcage, full getty wing, 380 brakes, wide tires and rims etc

 

For big front tires, you can try to move the radiators a bit forward.

Also adjustable caster bushes help to reduce caster when doing the track alignment. The more aggressive alignment you do, the more caster there will be...so that's a good part.

I don't have rolled fenders in front. I do have the wheel wells completely destroyed though

I hear what you say, I have interior, air con, air bags etc. in place. That has been the strategy, car is street car not race car...However, I think I will be in problems with well driven 991 RS cars this year Have to consider how aggressive I want to go. The great (but expensive) thing with these cars is you can always make it faster

I don't really see guys driving 265-275 in front at the track with 996s. Sure, people can put 265 Toyos and Falkens etc. "narrow tires" for street use, but R-compounds are quite wide and you can't rub the tires at track...
I only see 265-275 used on the track if the car has wider fenders. Would be cool to put 265 r-compound to front but don't know if worth the effort with stock fenders.

Speaking about stock fenders, I spotted these affordable and light carbon fenders, no clue about quality and can they make a wider version though: http://www.ebay.de/itm/Porsche-996-M...0AAOSwdvpWEl6U
(Fenders won't save much though, those are in total -6.6kg to OEM fenders, but usually carbon fenders from Cargraphic etc. cost twice the money for these cars.)