New clutch
#16
well, pwdr.. i already have your generous offer of your basic upgraded parts list, so i obviously know which clutch ( with the 764 plate etc ) to get if and when i feel the need to upgrade.
but as i know where i'm "at" and know what my clutch will handle "as is" ( and i'm "cheap" when i CAN be lol ) i'm ok for now
but as always, thanks for the dearth of info, as WELL as a clarification as to why my guys told me to run what i run VS upgrading *potentially* UNnecessarily. ( for now, anyway...)
again, thanks.
but as i know where i'm "at" and know what my clutch will handle "as is" ( and i'm "cheap" when i CAN be lol ) i'm ok for now
but as always, thanks for the dearth of info, as WELL as a clarification as to why my guys told me to run what i run VS upgrading *potentially* UNnecessarily. ( for now, anyway...)
again, thanks.
#17
Thanks for the info yeah, I'm easy on my clutches too and I don't plan to go beyond upgraded compressor wheels on my k16's (though, things can change... Lol) .... Thanks again
about two years now. same as was in before. but I'm not hard on a clutch. i use it to shift gears only, and I'm not trying to be "cute". i learned early on a clutch was not be slipped and i don't believe in drag racing or "launching", as i find it borders on sacrilege. it's a porsche. not a corvette, camaro or 427 cobra.
i have an oem replacement clutch ( search pelican parts for oem sachs and the gt2 disc ) with a gt2 disc is all, and i have 575/600 rwhp. no issues. no muss no fuss though the clutch fork is just as much a pita to re-install no matter what one uses lol
cost me about a grand maybe 1100? plus 3 hours labor not counting 3 attempts to get the clutch fork to line up ( arghh lol )
i have an oem replacement clutch ( search pelican parts for oem sachs and the gt2 disc ) with a gt2 disc is all, and i have 575/600 rwhp. no issues. no muss no fuss though the clutch fork is just as much a pita to re-install no matter what one uses lol
cost me about a grand maybe 1100? plus 3 hours labor not counting 3 attempts to get the clutch fork to line up ( arghh lol )
#18
Pwdr, would a 752 or 764 be a good match for the OEM gt2 disc? I really don't want to increase pedal effort if possible, and the max I plan to do is k16 billets or similar. I am very easy on my clutches also. Great info as always BTW!!
#19
it's fine for where i am..if i went up to 650rwhp and above *MAYBE* ( but why!? ) a28's with injectors/972ic's etc etc.. than MAYbe i'd upgrade the clutch, but believe me when i say all my parts match remarkably well as they are right now! and work in concert with one another, oh how about... symphonically lol
i'm a learner too. cheers
#20
With that said, the 764 plate has greater clamping force than the 752 and thus gives you more clamping margins. There is really no reason to buy the 752 as it's likely not much cheaper than the 764. If you are retaining the DMFW, install the 764 with the GT2 disc and you can retain the stock accumulator. For a street car, I would do that and call it a day.
If you are installing a 964 LWFW, install the 997GT3RS 4.0 disc. That is what I run and I consider it clutch nirvana when paired with the GT2 non assist clutch set up. In other words, I would recommend ditching the troublesome accumulator. You will reduce complexity, drop a little weight, and have a clutch with better feel. The effort is more but a complete non event after driving the car for 5 minutes. Assuming you don't have a muscular disability or an injury that prevents you from exerting a little more pressure with your foot, you won't notice it. Do this when doing the clutch as the gearbox will be out and it's only a couple of hours of labor to drill and tap the housing to do this. All factory parts are used. You are basically doing what Porsche did not do on the TT application. All the bosses are there as the casting is the same on the TT and GT2. Hope that helps.
Last edited by pwdrhound; 10-05-2015 at 10:14 PM.
#22
more great advice pwdr. i have always said this is my LAST accumulator and wouldn't you know, it's been trouble free with a perfectly consistent engagement point, for a few years now, and long since my clutch was "out" for my trans "refresh". but while i KNOW my clutch is similarly setup to your ruf car ( or was way back when.. ) it IS adequate to my needs, and to be honest, i don't have a lot of room on this two lane blacktop for much ( if ANY! ) more power. if i'm being honest about it.
i dont need to explain in detail what 575+rwhp rwd is like rounding 15mph corners. it's an e-ticket ride, and the clutch handles it flawlessly without issue at all. particularly during full wot uphills, and believe me, i have some STEEP uphill grades daily.
still, great advice ( as usual ) all.
i dont need to explain in detail what 575+rwhp rwd is like rounding 15mph corners. it's an e-ticket ride, and the clutch handles it flawlessly without issue at all. particularly during full wot uphills, and believe me, i have some STEEP uphill grades daily.
still, great advice ( as usual ) all.
#24
what is your current power level?
what do you anticipate or expect you'd like to have your power level be in the near ( or even distant ) future?
the answers will help to eliminate your confusion.
#25
Additionally, what are your expectations relative to pedal effort and engagement?
Will you be launching the car?
What's your budget?
Keep in mind that clutch discussions are similar to horsepower builds. You want it to be cheap, reliable and powerful. Pick two.
Later, Steve
Will you be launching the car?
What's your budget?
Keep in mind that clutch discussions are similar to horsepower builds. You want it to be cheap, reliable and powerful. Pick two.
Later, Steve
#26
FYI I'm getting ready to install a GT2 disk with a Sachs 764 pressure plate. If money was unlimited, I would install an ERP Carbon twin disk.
My car made 515wtq and would slip the stock clutch if I tried to launch the car or made a quick shift to 4th gear. Full throttle in any gear was not a problem after the clutch was engaged.
Later, Steve
My car made 515wtq and would slip the stock clutch if I tried to launch the car or made a quick shift to 4th gear. Full throttle in any gear was not a problem after the clutch was engaged.
Later, Steve
#28
Okey, thank you all so far for help.
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
#29
Okey, thank you all so far for help.
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
I'm currently at 410whp, and im looking get some more soon.. 650 +/-. Nothing extreme, but new turbo, coolers, fuel regulator, Keeping it simple.
Budget, lets say max 2000$ and see where it takes me?
Ofcourse, if I dont need to spend more then 1000$ Thats awsome
#30
Thanks for the reply... This is such great info! Especially since it is all from experience.
Very interesting that Ruf used the 752, I know they do their homework! Says a lot about how good this combo is
Thanks again.
Very interesting that Ruf used the 752, I know they do their homework! Says a lot about how good this combo is
Thanks again.
My car originally came with the Motorsport 752PP and a GT2 clutch disc along with the OEM DMFW and the assist accumulator. This was the standard clutch installed by RUF in all the 550 Rturbos. The RUF motor had K24hybrids, RUF intake manifold / turbo intake hoses, and a RUF exhaust. Power and torque were likely right at 500-520 at the wheels but I never dynoed it. Clutch was flawless and never slipped. When I removed it, the GT2 clutch disc actually measured at or better than NEW at all the factory measuring points. Both the pressure plate and DMFW still have the honing marks on the friction surfaces. There was absolutely zero measurable wear after 20K miles many of which were on a road course. I never launched the car and always rev match.
With that said, the 764 plate has greater clamping force than the 752 and thus gives you more clamping margins. There is really no reason to buy the 752 as it's likely not much cheaper than the 764. If you are retaining the DMFW, install the 764 with the GT2 disc and you can retain the stock accumulator. For a street car, I would do that and call it a day.
If you are installing a 964 LWFW, install the 997GT3RS 4.0 disc. That is what I run and I consider it clutch nirvana when paired with the GT2 non assist clutch set up. In other words, I would recommend ditching the troublesome accumulator. You will reduce complexity, drop a little weight, and have a clutch with better feel. The effort is more but a complete non event after driving the car for 5 minutes. Assuming you don't have a muscular disability or an injury that prevents you from exerting a little more pressure with your foot, you won't notice it. Do this when doing the clutch as the gearbox will be out and it's only a couple of hours of labor to drill and tap the housing to do this. All factory parts are used. You are basically doing what Porsche did not do on the TT application. All the bosses are there as the casting is the same on the TT and GT2. Hope that helps.
With that said, the 764 plate has greater clamping force than the 752 and thus gives you more clamping margins. There is really no reason to buy the 752 as it's likely not much cheaper than the 764. If you are retaining the DMFW, install the 764 with the GT2 disc and you can retain the stock accumulator. For a street car, I would do that and call it a day.
If you are installing a 964 LWFW, install the 997GT3RS 4.0 disc. That is what I run and I consider it clutch nirvana when paired with the GT2 non assist clutch set up. In other words, I would recommend ditching the troublesome accumulator. You will reduce complexity, drop a little weight, and have a clutch with better feel. The effort is more but a complete non event after driving the car for 5 minutes. Assuming you don't have a muscular disability or an injury that prevents you from exerting a little more pressure with your foot, you won't notice it. Do this when doing the clutch as the gearbox will be out and it's only a couple of hours of labor to drill and tap the housing to do this. All factory parts are used. You are basically doing what Porsche did not do on the TT application. All the bosses are there as the casting is the same on the TT and GT2. Hope that helps.
Last edited by gophaster; 10-07-2015 at 06:12 PM.