when you say key in ignition, are you turning it to the 'on' position?

 

Update: I've tried jumping the fuse box to open the hood from an actual car, and still having the same issue with the alarm

Is there any way to shut off the horn from the alarm through the fuse box inside the car or is the only fuse under the frunk

 

alarm horn is the one beside the battery if you want to disconnect

 

Want to bump my question, I know you said you unlocked the wheel, but have you had the key to the full 'on' position once putting power to the car?

 

I've tried the key in the ignition in all turnt positions

 

Odd...normally that 'fixes' the alarm situation.
Can you close the door safely with the jump leads still attached to the box?
If so, close the door and try to lock/unlock with the remote...if that fails, lock/unlock the key and then ignition to 'on'

 

Jump it through the lighter, Radio Shack sells (sold?) a lighter plug with terminal lugs that worked great. I really think the alarm may be interfering with the opening of hatches though - makes sense when you consider that would prevent a thief from getting to the battery to disable the alarm...

 

Wait, are you trying to open the frunk by wiring into it fuse? Or powering the whole car then hitting the frunk switch?

 

Would be great if I could get the trunk to open

I've tried that too. My Uneducated guess is that the battery is completely flat and the alarm instantly going off upon connect is continually draining the battery.

I get no response from the key or any buttons while the alarm is going off. I've never experience anything like this.

I thought about the cig. lighter charger. I feel like that will also set off an alarm, but who knows.

Just open the frunk or trunk so I can jump start the car properly

 

Anyone have more tips on where the emergency release might be?

I felt all around the pass. side fender, even stuck my phone in and took a video and couldn't see anything. Some posts say its right behind the liner, other say under the headlight, etc.

 

It was the jump box through the fuse that wouldn't work. Luckily, I had no issues with the alarm.

I'm not sure why the jump box wouldn't work but a battery did. But that's what my case was. I would try the switch and nothing would happen when it was connected to the jump box and "constant power" was switched on. This was one of those heavy duty rolling jump start/charging boxes. I then took a battery and some jumper cables and boom the frunk opened.

Have you tried reinitializing your key? I know when my car sits for awhile the keyfob doesn't work sometimes and I have to unlock the drivers side door using the key in the door lock and within about 10 seconds or so, open the door and insert the key into the ignition without starting the car and push the unlock button on the keyfob (I usually press it a couple times). Maybe that will get the alarm to stop if you haven't tired that? I assume you have though.

 

its only under the headlight once its been re-routed. though 996 n/a? this still may help. i cant ( for some reason? locate the 996 turbo but the boxters and turbos mechanical similarities are too many to mention, so this may well help! but the wire ( unless its previously been previously moved from BEHIND the fender liner!


REMEMBER! THIS IS BOXTER INFO SO IT'LL VARY SOMEWHAT! BUT NOT MUCH!

to open the front trunk when the battery is dead you can use the emergency release cable which can be accessed with a few tools, use the battery procedure outlined in Porsche Technical Bulletin 1/96 5510 or use my method which requires a small screwdriver and flashlight. It allows you to open the front hood lid in about 10 seconds once you learn the trick. My procedure is outlined below:
1. Both trunk levers are cable operated. When the alarm is set, a solenoid latches the two trunk levers. If the battery dies while the alarm is set, it is necessary to open the door with the key. Opening the door with the key does not unlatch the trunk levers since there is no power to operate the solenoid.
2. To learn how to unlatch the trunk levers, examine under the front trunk lever by looking through the slot between the two trunk levers with a flashlight. Look for the tab on the underside of the front trunk lever. Directly below the tab is a small U shaped cutout. When the lever is pulled up, the tab drops into the small U shaped cutout. When the alarm is set, a small white plate slides over the small U shaped cutout from the center of the car towards the outside of the car. This prevents you from pulling up the lever because the tab cannot pivot down into the small U shaped cutout.
3. To unlatch the front trunk lever, use a very thin shaft straight slot screwdriver (I used an Xcelite R3323 which has a very thin 3"shaft). Slide the screwdriver between the two trunk levers and insert it between the solenoid plate and outside rear edge of the U shaped cutout and slid the plate toward the center of the car and pull up on the front trunk lever.
To test this procedure (without waiting for a dead battery):
1. With the drivers door open, move the black door latch to the closed position, the second click. This is done by using a screwdriver to move the black lever portion of the door latch toward the outside of the door until you hear a distinct click followed by a second distinct click. IMPORTANT: At this point do not slam the door shut since the door latch is in the latched position and may be damaged when making contact with the door jab. Step 4 explains how to reset the door latch.
2. Lock the car using the remote or key. The alarm will be set and the trunk levers latched. Don't sit in the car because the alarm is set.
3. At this point you can use the above procedure to open the front trunk. The alarm may sound when you pull up on the lever since you are opening the trunk. This is determined by the front trunk switch adjustment.
4. IMPORTANT: After opening the front trunk using this test procedure you must unlock the car using the remote or key followed by pulling up on the door handle to unlatch the door latch.

The Towing Eye Hack enables you, the owner, to open the front trunk quickly, when the battery is dead. It's the fastest way to gain access to your front trunk if/when your battery is dead.

Disclaimer: the Towing Eye Hack is for Boxster owners only. Non-owners should never pull the Towing Eye Cap to see if the owner did this hack. If this hack is ever utilized for evil purposes the evil-doer will surely go to a very hot place for all eternity.Often done while pulling the front bumper to clean the radiators.

Tools needed:
* Wire coat hanger
* Wire cutter (dykes)
* Flashlight
* Wire ties (plastic straps used to bundle wires)

Procedure:
1. Remove Towing Eye Cap in front bumper (or remove the bumper)
2. Open front trunk
3. Loosen spare tire in front trunk - loosen the wing nut in the middle of the spare tire
4. Remove tool kit behind spare tire
Note: Feel free to check your Owner's Manual for Instructions on removing and reinstalling your Boxster's headlights. Do not follow these instructions to remove and reinstall the headlights if they're wrong Reading instructions before doing work will take time and it may also cause dryness of the mouth, headaches and paranoia
5. Locate Headlight Removal Tool in tool kit
6. Release trunk liner (carpet)in the area inside the front trunk on the passenger side
7. Remove the rubber plug that covers the access hole to the headlight release on the passenger side
8. Insert Headlight Removal Tool into the hole engaging the nut
9. Rotate the Headlight Removal Tool and release the headlight
10. Remove headlight - Litronics headlights require releasing the plug while standard headlights unplug themselves when they slide out
11. Headlight slides out/forward - note the round tabs on the headlight that slide in tracks mounted inside the headlight area in the car
12. Place the headlight somewhere safe from falling and damage
13. Locate front trunk emergency release wire which is taped to the side of the trunk inside the headlight opening. It looks like this wire with the circular "handle".





14. Pull the front trunk emergency release wire free of the plastic tape.
15. Get a wire coat hanger and cut a piece about 10" long - make a small hook (small 'U' shape) in one end
16. Insert the hooked end into the Towing Eye hole in the front bumper
17. Using a flashlight if necessary, move the emergency trunk release wire so that you can hook it with the coat hanger hook - hook the trunk release wire in the middle of the wire, not the loop handle
18. Once you've hooked the emergency trunk release cable with the coat hanger, pull the coat hanger hook back out of the towing eye so that a loop of the emergency trunk release wire comes out the hole (it's not necessary to pull it all the way out)
19. Using a wire tie, loop it around the emergency trunk release wire and around the "fishing line" that is used on most Boxsters to connect the Cap to the bumper. If your Towing Eye Cap does not have the fishing line (meaning your Towing Eye Cap is loose) then you can run the wire tie through the round hole in the Towing Eye Cap meant for the fishing line.
20. Your wire tie should now be looped around the emergency trunk release wire and the fishing line in the Towing Eye Cap. Keep the loop of the wire tie large - there's no need to tighten it so the emergency release wire is pulled tight to the Towing Eye Cap. You'll want there to be a length of wire tie.
21. Push the loop of exposed emergency trunk release wire back into the hole, tuck the wire tie back into the hole and put the Towing Eye Cap back into place in the front bumper.
22. Use your wire coat hanger to fish the emergency trunk release wire handle (the wire has a loop handle) and pull it back towards where it was taped in place - it won't reach that spot any more but you just want to find a place to tuck the emergency trunk release wire and loop handle out of the way where it won't snag on anything.
23. Replace the headlight making sure the tabs slide back in the tracks.
24. Once it's back in place you'll need to use the Headlight Removal Tool to latch the headlight securely back into place. You'll need to hear a snap or "pop" that indicates the headlight is latched securely. Check it by tugging on the headlight to make sure the headlight is locked back in place and won't come flying out when you stop the first time you drive your Boxster.
25. Replace the Rubber Plug and the trunk liner back in place.
26. Pack up your tool kit and replace it behind the tire
27. Tighten up the nut holding the tire in place
28. Check your headlight to make sure it's securely locked in place
29. Next time your battery is dead (unfortunately, it's only a matter of time before it happens) don't get concerned . Remove the Towing Eye Cap, pull the wire tie out of the hole and pull on it to pull the emergency front trunk release wire out (no need to pull it all the way out). Pull on the emergency front trunk release wire and unlock your front trunk.
30. Jump start your car or charge your battery. Think about how much easier this is than other solutions.

 

this is KEY:!!!

Third Method

Inside the top of the passengers front wheel well, just aft of the spring coil mount, is a little rectangular corner in the black plastic shroud that lines the inside of the wheel well. Reach under this, and you will feel a "wire" about 1/8" in diameter. Too thick for an electrical wire (and not in a harness anyway). Tug this cable gently out from behind the shroud and get a good grip on a loop of it. Now pull hard away from the headlight once, and prepare to hear the music of the alarm as the front hood pops open. Grab a 10mm wrench and take off one of the battery cables to silence the alarm.

this pic is a 997 c4s its same but OPPOSITE side on your 996 tt

 

LOL, ya read it wrong the first time, thought you had trunk open but alarm wouldn't stop.
Are you using a standard low-amp battery charger? Can you get another good battery or car to jump off of?
I think you don't have enough electrical energy...full jump power + key to 'on' should do it...
And to clarify further, the car MUST be 'disarmed' before you can open the frunk/lid

 

I'll add, the rear emergency release is easier to relocate to an accessible and safe location than is the front