There it is

 

Good job Stebo!!!!!! Your engine looks really clean!!!

 

Well done, congrats

 

Bought an el-cheapo knurl tool for the 90deg fitting, shown below supported by a metric socket.



Thoroughly roughed up and cleaned both male and female surfaces and loaded them up with JB weld



Had a little bit of trouble getting the joint together, used a combo of force, rotating, wood drift, and rubber mallet. Resulted in a nice fillet around the circumference, verified w/ a mirror.



Went on vacation and let it cure for a week. Replaced fuel filter while everything was easily accessible and now buttoning up everything. If I ever need to drop the motor I will go and pin all of them.

 

Well done. I had no idea there were manual knurling tools. I've only ever done it on a lathe back in high school metal shop!

 

They make 45deg ones also. Obv the 90deg fitting won't chuck up in a lathe 😂. So how is your project progressing?

 

In a word, slow. I didn't know what I was going to find, nor what i was going to do when I found it. Blowing the hose caught me off guard, so I pulled everything and then ordered parts. Not my usual procedure - I'm typically very meticulous in the planning and execution of my projects. While dealing with the cooling hardware, I'm also doing a clutch/flywheel, oil pressure sender, diverters, check valves, and whatever external engine fortifications I can.

Some people aren't going to want to hear this, but since my hose split rather than a fitting popping out, I think I'm going to pin. I'm a fairly competent wrench, but honestly I'm a little intimidated by the thought of disassembling all of the things required for a weld job. Maybe if I wasn't moving next month I could talk myself into it, but I am moving, and I do NOT want to move my 6TT in pieces. At the moment I have enough time to finish up and get the car back together, if I go much deeper I won't have that luxury.

 

Alas, scope creep! Might I suggest the GT2 slave. I did clutch/LWFW but not slave. Bad decision. You are smart to do it w engine out. Best of luck.
I also plan to pin. It's a sound fix.

 

If the fittings have not moved and are not weeping, pinning is a 100% fix. Ask Skark works, those guys seem to know what they are doing.

 

Got er done... runs great, no leaks. New clutch feels great. Now the hard part- driving easy while I break it in.

 

So, you did it yourself? Pinned them darned fittings and did a clutch? How many hours do you think it took you? and how much $ all in?

I am going to need a clutch one of these days and will pin the 2 on the oil cooler i did not get to and i am starting to plan for it.

I bet it's faster with those new hoses too. I know my car always feels faster after i work on it.

 

Honestly, A LOT of time and a LOT of money.

I can tally it up fully later but this is pretty close:

Fluids alone are about $200 including oil
Clutch and flywheel were about $2000
If be happy to discuss vendors and prices if you'd like to PM me
Misc specialized tools (triple square socket set, motorcycle jack, right angle drill, 2 more jack stands) maybe $200 more
New belt $60
New 710 diverter valves about $110

So that's $2600 right there...

I also killed both of my hydraulic jacks. So I'll have to get another one of those...

I don't think I'll ever drop the motor on jack stands again. I am already saving up for Quick jacks or maxjax.

Hours are a little more difficult to judge. Ballpark is probably close to 40 over the course of about a month. I used a few cans of brake clean and a quart of purple power to clean and degrease my entire engine, so it looks new. Also had to clean the garage floor because spills are unavoidable.

Hope that helps.

 

Nice work - I just did my injectors and it beat me up a little bit but feels nice to get it done.

 

Ggod work Stebo!!! Congrats!!!

 

Thanks JP! You were a tremendous help and an asset to this forum!