So, I followed numerous suggestions and just tied up the spoiler motor power and ground wires. Then bagged the switches carefully so they are not actuated. Once I get above 75mph I get a warning light.

So, I have read several reports that some people successfully shorted the "Up" switch so that the cluster thinks the spoiler is up. In the past I have raised the spoiler for washing the car and forgot to lower. When doing so I have never triggered a warning light. So my concern is if I short the "Up" switch and go above 75mph that the cluster will trigger a spoiler light when I decelerate below 37mph because the down switch is never made?? Thoughts experiences or ideas??

 

DaveCarrera4S makes a module to fool the computer. I'd get that if I were in your position. It's the Rennkit Micromodule

The other option is the gt2/aerokit decklid wiring harness.

 

I am aware. I have spoken to him. Seems like a nice kit too. I am just a pretty hardcore DIYer that likes to figure things out though. If all else fails, i may get the aerokit harness for the OEM quality.

 

I know you are keeping the micro switches in, I accidentally broke mine so I cut them out and it was easy to tell when each of the switches are ON (wires connected) or OFF (wires not connected) position.

Here is what I told various people via PM when they asked me how to disable the light:

One of the micro switches need to be open while other closed.

I did this a year ago so my memory is a bit foggy, but I left both switches in the open position and only got the spoiler failure light at 70mph.

One micro switch uses a black/blue wires, while other one has gray/black wires. I don't recall which, but either the black/blue or gray/black wires need to be connected together for the failure light not to trigger at 70mph.

Just jump one of the wires (or in your case click the micro switch to tun in ON), and if you do not get the spoiler light on right away when starting your car, then you jumped the correct wires.

It is much easier to do with the switches removed cause you are then just connecting one pair of wires and leaving the other pair disconnected.

 

All this talk piqued my curiosity, so I just looked closely at what I did and it appears I have the switch with the blue wire not touching at the top or outside of the switch and the other switch (can't see the wire colors) with the contacts touching at the bottom or inside of the switch. Again, no lights ever with whatever I have done and definitely no harness change required.

 

Thanks for checking, John!

I can confirm that. Last night I spliced the gray and black wires(from up position switch) and have not had a light yet. For the first time since the upgrade. Will report back after more drive cycles.

 

This makes sense from a minimalist hardware & programming design. Since the failure mode is spoiler-down, then a constant spoiler-up signal shouldn't cause fault. The computer would only be looking for a failure to achieve the up position.

 

not true, cluster ECU will throw a fault code both for up or for down. There is a counter in the program, time to achieve up signal is 11 to 15 seconds. Down is several minutes.

 

Day 2 and several drive cycles without a fault warning.

 

More attempts shouldn't change anything (unless you are not going fast enough - over 75). I think you're good to go.