996TT street car suspension advice?
#31
Yes, agreed. I'm bringing the car into TFB this weekend to have the suspension bushings and engine/gearbox mounts inspected, then going from there based on the findings.
I would really like to stick with non adjustable shocks and springs unless someone wants to give me an AMAZING deal on coilovers
EDIT: I just got an estimate for PSS10, RSS adjustable rear link kit, adjustable rear toe steer kit, engine mounts.. $7k in parts and labor... any feedback on that cost for those who have gone a similar route?
I would really like to stick with non adjustable shocks and springs unless someone wants to give me an AMAZING deal on coilovers
EDIT: I just got an estimate for PSS10, RSS adjustable rear link kit, adjustable rear toe steer kit, engine mounts.. $7k in parts and labor... any feedback on that cost for those who have gone a similar route?
#32
Yes, agreed. I'm bringing the car into TFB this weekend to have the suspension bushings and engine/gearbox mounts inspected, then going from there based on the findings.
I would really like to stick with non adjustable shocks and springs unless someone wants to give me an AMAZING deal on coilovers
EDIT: I just got an estimate for PSS10, RSS adjustable rear link kit, adjustable rear toe steer kit, engine mounts.. $7k in parts and labor... any feedback on that cost for those who have gone a similar route?
I would really like to stick with non adjustable shocks and springs unless someone wants to give me an AMAZING deal on coilovers
EDIT: I just got an estimate for PSS10, RSS adjustable rear link kit, adjustable rear toe steer kit, engine mounts.. $7k in parts and labor... any feedback on that cost for those who have gone a similar route?
#33
VS a cpl/few grand for non adjustable and never have to mess with 'em, perfectly reliable B8's and H&R sport springs plus new mm's/997 t-mount. throw in a nice gt3 sway bar for the rear? good to go. no muss, no fuss. spend the money saved on some new 18" wheels and tires.
and voila, new car lol
#34
labor was 12 hours and ~$2k. PSS10 alone were $3k.
Hopefully inspection will show some parts are not necessary
Re the tires discussion, yes OP is going to stick with 19s. I really like the "dish" of the rear wheels that are on the car
Hopefully inspection will show some parts are not necessary
Re the tires discussion, yes OP is going to stick with 19s. I really like the "dish" of the rear wheels that are on the car
#36
Hi everyone! My '03 6TT has 67k miles and the stock suspension has started to show some signs of suspension wear (more specifically, I feel some lateral movement when going over midcorner bumps, not just vertical movement, and when I turn into a corner, I feel like the front end of the car is "skating" for a split second before the car changes direction) and I'm thinking about replacement parts.
My current plan is to get Bilstein B8 dampers and H&R sport springs, and replace the 4-5yr old PSS tires with RE71R tires. The car currently has 225/40/19 and 305/30/19 size PSS, and I'm planning to go to 245/35/19 and 305/30/19 RE17R. The wheels are Forgestar F14, 8.5" wide in front and 11" wide in the rear. (I still need to find the offsets)
The car is a weekend canyon fun runs car but is 100% street usage because I have a spec Miata for the track.
5 questions for the group:
My current plan is to get Bilstein B8 dampers and H&R sport springs, and replace the 4-5yr old PSS tires with RE71R tires. The car currently has 225/40/19 and 305/30/19 size PSS, and I'm planning to go to 245/35/19 and 305/30/19 RE17R. The wheels are Forgestar F14, 8.5" wide in front and 11" wide in the rear. (I still need to find the offsets)
The car is a weekend canyon fun runs car but is 100% street usage because I have a spec Miata for the track.
5 questions for the group:
- Are there any other wear and tear items that are "must replace" (e.g. camber plates for the front, drop links for the sway bars, rear toe locking plate kit)? I'm trying to keep the parts list down to a minimum to keep costs down
- Will I need other parts to get the alignment correct (e.g. rear adjustable toe control arm)? I believe the H&R sport spring lowering mild enough to avoid those.
- Will I have rubbing issues? I can't find anyone posting about this exact combination of tires and suspension, but it "should" be ok given that others have run these tire sizes with lowered cars
- Should I go ahead and use the "X73" alignment that is apparently already input into all of the alignment machines?
- Should I look into transmission and engine mounts to have an "X73-like" setup?
#37
if it were me, and for a "street car" with some canyon carving? i think you should follow your own advice here!
a cpl/few grand for non adjustable and never have to mess with 'em, perfectly reliable B8's and H&R sport springs plus new mm's/997 t-mount. throw in a nice gt3 sway bar for the rear? good to go. no muss, no fuss.
and voila, new car lol
a cpl/few grand for non adjustable and never have to mess with 'em, perfectly reliable B8's and H&R sport springs plus new mm's/997 t-mount. throw in a nice gt3 sway bar for the rear? good to go. no muss, no fuss.
and voila, new car lol
Except I will not be using the saved money on 18s for the 6TT... it will go towards coaching, entry fees and upkeep for my Miata
Tire change and inspection for suspension and engine/gearbox mounts wear this weekend, then the changes you outlined after that.
B8 + H&R springs are $1.5k new from tirerack. If anyone wants to sell me used JRZ pro or Ohlins caliber of coilovers ~$2k that would change my plans.....
#42
I've been running H&R Street Coilovers on mine for a while now. With 19x8.5 and 19x11 wheels wrapped with 225-40-19 and 295-30-19. My sidewalls are pretty much exactly the same height as stock 996TT so there is no additional harshness to the ride from the 19's and also my OZ 19's are lighter than stock hollow spokes so response is excellent as well.
If I would have gone with the recommended 315-25-19 I could definitely understand why people would complain about increased harshness. Not the case if using tires that give you stock sidewall height.
When I purchased my 996TT it was 100% stone stock and I drove it that way for about 1 year. When I switched to the H&R coilovers and GT2 inspired alignment specs it transformed the car. The ride was slightly firmer than stock but with better composure than stock! It felt firmer but absorbed bumps better and the more aggressive GT2 alignment specs woke up the steering as well.
Basically, all I needed were the coilover kit (under $2000) + rear toe links (about $400)...that's it. (I also opted for rear lock out plates at about $100) This allowed the car to be dialed in perfectly at the new lower height.
When I first removed the front shocks I thought the upper shock bushings/mounts were OK but upon much closer inspection I noticed some very small hairline cracks in the rubber so I replaced the bushings and the bearings as well. My car was really well cared for and babied all it's life and even so, it still needed the front upper bushings/mounts replaced. I think age is the factor here so plan on replacing those almost for sure. The rear upper mounts were pretty much perfect so just inspect them.
Good luck with your decision
If I would have gone with the recommended 315-25-19 I could definitely understand why people would complain about increased harshness. Not the case if using tires that give you stock sidewall height.
When I purchased my 996TT it was 100% stone stock and I drove it that way for about 1 year. When I switched to the H&R coilovers and GT2 inspired alignment specs it transformed the car. The ride was slightly firmer than stock but with better composure than stock! It felt firmer but absorbed bumps better and the more aggressive GT2 alignment specs woke up the steering as well.
Basically, all I needed were the coilover kit (under $2000) + rear toe links (about $400)...that's it. (I also opted for rear lock out plates at about $100) This allowed the car to be dialed in perfectly at the new lower height.
When I first removed the front shocks I thought the upper shock bushings/mounts were OK but upon much closer inspection I noticed some very small hairline cracks in the rubber so I replaced the bushings and the bearings as well. My car was really well cared for and babied all it's life and even so, it still needed the front upper bushings/mounts replaced. I think age is the factor here so plan on replacing those almost for sure. The rear upper mounts were pretty much perfect so just inspect them.
Good luck with your decision
#43
I found this thread after changing my rear lower control arm thrust bushings with solids.
If my car is any indication ('03, 50k miles), your rear thrust bushings are in need of attention too. My main goal was to address tire wear and a hint of bump steer and stability under braking. Worn thrust bushings cause toe changes under load.
I would head pwdrhound's advice as I've found it on point every time.
Here's a pic where you can clearly tell it's permanently off center. Along with the custom puller I kludged together to do it on car.
If my car is any indication ('03, 50k miles), your rear thrust bushings are in need of attention too. My main goal was to address tire wear and a hint of bump steer and stability under braking. Worn thrust bushings cause toe changes under load.
I would head pwdrhound's advice as I've found it on point every time.
Here's a pic where you can clearly tell it's permanently off center. Along with the custom puller I kludged together to do it on car.
#44
rear suspension lovesss monoball/solid... just feels right when done.
front end responds very well to similar, but adds more nvh than similar to rear... but its damn good...
monoball everything with good dampers//// winning.
front end responds very well to similar, but adds more nvh than similar to rear... but its damn good...
monoball everything with good dampers//// winning.
#45
I researched suspension to death and ended up asking advice from our good friend SamboTT on here.
I bought KW V1 coilovers and some other bits (sway bars, rear toe links) and I'm very happy with the handling and ride quality now.
Handles like a racecar and it's a LOT more comfortable than stock. Best of both worlds.
I bought KW V1 coilovers and some other bits (sway bars, rear toe links) and I'm very happy with the handling and ride quality now.
Handles like a racecar and it's a LOT more comfortable than stock. Best of both worlds.