frunk bonnet sticker or not? just feel up under the rear q panels and see if the intercoolers are smooth or rough to the touch like "cheese or carrot graters" lol. If rough? the car has the gt2/x50 ic's.

But boost levels should also tell you i.e. 0.7 on stock k16s vs 0.9 on a stock x50 car w k24s. Max is 0.9 on stock k24's. Not counting occasional .1 spikes.

I have most all bolt on's and tuned etc with old school k16/24 hybrids and I'm at approx 475+ rwhp and can still manage 25 mpg on a flat road in 5/6 gear. But only while navigating past LEO's. "Bolt on mods", tunes and the like, contribute nothing to the premature wear of parts ( not including tires ) or to less gas mileage.

Only drivers do.

 

Thanks for the response guys, most appreciated.

I'll prioritise condition and maintenance over options.
All things being equal I'll go for the X50, otherwise it'll be stock if it's a better car.
I'm not going to pay a premium for one though.

 

That sounds pretty reasonable...I don't think anyone here has any regrets with our own non X50 cars.

Good luck in your search. It's a helluva car!

 

seems to me that modded cars don't go for a premium so if you can get a good one, that hasn't been tracked, go for it. These are very easy cars to get dramatically improved performance over a stock or even x 50.

I got mine after driving a friend's chipped x 50. It was thrilling. I then tested a regular x 50 and it was great but not as thrilling.

I ended up buying a modded 04 with most of the 700 package on it and it was also chipped. K 28's, 1.4 boost, upgraded clutch, suspension, lowered, and after market exhaust and wheels. It's a beast, most fun I've ever had in a car and scary fast accelaration, throwns me back in the seat and I have to really hold on to the steering wheel tight. I haven't driven it at automatic jail speeds. but I don't have to because the power from second to third and third to fourth is fairly intoxicating.

has some issues with clutch accumulator (twice) don't know if it has anything to do with the added power. and I don't track it. My recommendation is that a modded 996 turbo is alot of bang for the buck, especially since there's no premium, so far.
good luck

 

it doesn't. such is the nature of a system designed for people that were light in the clutch foot loafers.

just disengage the clutch switch requiring "clutch in" to start. no more accumulator issues. just remember to l/r the gearshift to ensure you're in neutral, pre-ignition.

 

I recall a recent discussion about that switch, which I think I initiated. wasn't there some deep dark engineering reason why that couldn't work or wouldn't be the case? car's in the shop now for some other issues. will ask about it. thx.

 

i'm sorry, i don't understand your question? but i stand my my earlier suggestion.

if you disable the clutch "switch" at the pedal, that requires you engage the clutch with the engine off in order that you may start the car? you will eliminate the main cause of premature clutch accumulator issues, and be happier for it. just do it and GL.

 

I have read - unsubstantiated rumors - that the clutch switch retards timing and de-sensitizes the e-gas pedal to make getting moving from a stop easier.

 

I think I'd have noticed by now, if that were so.

 

This switch does not exist on ROW cars! Only an north american cars....No function other than having to depress the clutch pedal for start.....

 

just a view. glad you clarified with think. Would I be making a bad assumption in assuming your 996tt is stock. On my twin turbo cars, stock has been rubbish compared tune alone and who gives a toss about mpg. but reckon waste of time just doing a tune on a turn of the century twin turbo euro. Eg Custom tune and exhaust with hi flow cats as a minimum and the results are night and day difference. e.g. put increase in hp / tq aside, night and day difference in throttle response in any gear. Then there's early spool and boost hit.

As a boost junky, who gives a toss about fuel economy compared to that insta boosting hit you get and 996 gt3 ish note out of the mezger when your over 5000 rpm. With an exhauat

But not all tunes are alike. DYOR

I went from stock to stage 2 OTS COBB TUNE and Kline Exhaust with 100 cel hjs cats and thought night and day difference to stock. Then a couple of weeks ago sat back to back in my car then in a umw custom tuned 996tt with Kline exhaust with 200 celL CATS and from a butt dyno experience the umw felt like a good 15% up on power / boost hit / pull through the rev range. Owner of the umw car felt a good 20% behind the wheel of both. Eg bit difference between circa 0.7 bar then 1.0 bar then circa 1.2bar

PS compared to stock form a Kline exhaust particularly in a tunnel vs stock is an absolute night and day difference with the window down. I think you need to move from think and go get a custom tune and exhaust if you don'. already have one. Just a view but what a waste of coin if you enjoy driving buying a 996tt and not running a tune and exhaust and foregoing that one or two or 5 mpg loss. Each to their own.

 

exhaust and remap will get you the same MPG as stock if you don't use the throttle that much.

Personally, I think the best 'deal' is to get one modified by a person or shop that you trust that doesn't have any deferred maintenance.