Ohlins Road and Track SETTINGS RECOMMENDATIONS?
 

I was going to install Motons but decided last minute to go with Ohlins Road and Track.

Just finished the install and have only driven 4 miles in the rain on full stiff settings. At least I think this is full stiff. The knobs are all the way turned in.

There seem to be 34 positions.

It says that 0-7 is for track, 5-10 winding road, 10-20 street.

Since track is 0-7, these #s must be clicks from full hard. Which I think is the knob turned full in. Since there are a total of 34 positions 21-34 must be for straight roads smooth as a mirror?

Anywho, my car is a Turbo cab on 19s. I have previously been on B8s with H&R springs and Bilstein PSS10 before. On the PSS10 everybody pretty much used the same settings and so did I. They were very good, even for canyon runs. What are the recommended ONE-SIZE-FITS-ALL front and rear settings for the Ohlins?

20 for comfort street use / 10-15 sportive driving/ 7 track (all from full in)

start at 10 and adjust to 'fit'

My Ohlins were installed and setup by Center Gravity, a well respected suspension specialist here in the UK (no affiliation etc.). I believe mine are set to 17F/14R for our (pitiful) roads and this seems about right for me. Good balance between comfort and performance. Have had them for nearly 3 years now, couple of minor install/material issues but other than that top notch. Enjoy

Any comparison comments for the Ohlins Vs the H&R-B8 combo?

I'd like to keep this thread very clean and just discuss settings.

I changed from full stiff to 17F/14R today. The car is very compliant over bad roads and handles bumps and dips very well. The valving is superb. This is a very fast acting shock. Just what I wanted.

Who has pictures of their drop link set up for front and rear? I feel like I might want more sway bar pre load than what the specs of the installation instructions are giving me with OEM drop links and sway bars.

the Ohlins typically like to have a tighter front damper rate adjustment vs the rear as rebound is a bit light on the front valving..ie the reverse of above
you don't want any swaybar preload, this means the chassis is preloaded to one side... or do you mean the spring preload adjustment? you must maintain some as there are no helpers/tenders to take away slack under droop, but you could add additional preload if you desire

If I go to a 10F and keep the 14R will I get a tighter and more responsive turn in? That's what I'm missing.

I want that razor sharp handling you get with a mid engine Ferrari.

Following the set up instructions there is no pre load on the front spring. I thought that was strange and I do not like it. If you don't get air everything is fine. If you do get air the landing might upset the apple cart and lead to some unwanted consequences. The way the shock is set up a pre loaded spring will require a longer drop link.

See the gap (marked RED) between the top hat and the spacer on top of the yellow spring
in the picture.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...7f7f9c53dd.jpg

you're not able to lower the height adjuster(lock ring is loose in pics) and add the 2mm required preload?

I just installed these as well and used ohlins recommended settings and I'm not getting any gaps. You may want to recheck your install.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...92aba23962.jpg

Just installed ohlins R&T, and i to have a gap....any suggestions, or is that normal?

I noticed the OEM suspension also had a gap when raised?

​​​​​​​Thanks in advance

^^^ solved!

What was it?

i needed to relieve the pressure off the driver side sway bar end link by slightly lifting the passenger side suspension.

Once i raised the passenger side suspension slightly, it immediately lifted the D/S end link and dropped int place.