Official Turbo Weight Loss Thread/ Lightest Turbo List
#167
You can't use the factory lifters because they're too strong. You need to use the ones for the CF GT3 hood (though that doesn't change the weight appreciably).
#169
Updated.
Guys check this out http://www.suprahardtopregistry.com/
Click on Curbweight calculators. That is pretty awesome, not that you couldnt do the math yourself, but still cool.
Al Norton - I cant remember if the weight you gave for the clutch setup was for the difference in the sachs and stock? I didnt put it if it was. Help me out.
Guys check this out http://www.suprahardtopregistry.com/
Click on Curbweight calculators. That is pretty awesome, not that you couldnt do the math yourself, but still cool.
Al Norton - I cant remember if the weight you gave for the clutch setup was for the difference in the sachs and stock? I didnt put it if it was. Help me out.
#170
Updated.
Guys check this out http://www.suprahardtopregistry.com/
Click on Curbweight calculators. That is pretty awesome, not that you couldnt do the math yourself, but still cool.
Al Norton - I cant remember if the weight you gave for the clutch setup was for the difference in the sachs and stock? I didnt put it if it was. Help me out.
Guys check this out http://www.suprahardtopregistry.com/
Click on Curbweight calculators. That is pretty awesome, not that you couldnt do the math yourself, but still cool.
Al Norton - I cant remember if the weight you gave for the clutch setup was for the difference in the sachs and stock? I didnt put it if it was. Help me out.
Sachs clutch, pp and GT3 RS lwfw = 28#
Savings= -18#
The savings in in the fw. Stock = 30.5#. GT# = 12.5#.
#172
BTW, My car, with everything listed, is still a FATASS...still weighs 3556 with driver(180 lbs) and half a tank...
#173
I'm at 2813 with 10 gallons of fuel and full cage allt he way to the shock towers - but its brutal to get there - we're probably good for another round by getting rid of the stock rotors and heat shielding in back on the bumper cover -
So I'll finish up around 2750. The motor on pump gas at 1.2 bar puts 523 to the wheel.
So I'll finish up around 2750. The motor on pump gas at 1.2 bar puts 523 to the wheel.
#174
Wow. You'll end up with a car at the minimum for the GT2 ALMS Porsche GT3's which I believe to be 2750. I don't know of anyone with a 2750# 996tt. I think their 2750 is with no fuel but allows fluids for drinking and cool suit.
#175
That's about the right flavor, and about as practical as well - but it's been an interesting experiment - probably move to juice the motor next - but I think the real gain is from race fuel, and I like pulling up to the pump still - we have an M600 motec controller moving the electrons around including the variocam - and reading the electronic dipstick on the motec display in digits, rather then a bar chart just to be kind of trick - we'll do another round of chassis tuning this spring -
#178
delete ac cores (use one radiator fan on passenger fan for street use)
composite hood
delete fuel fill crap (use 100 litre fuel cell with dry break)
delete one wiper and part of wiper assembley (same as cup car)
add cup car electronic relay kill switch
use cup car windshield (thinner unit)
delete interior (use motosport dash w/ reduced support material)
delete wiring harness, use front and rear motorsport unit and custom engine harness
use plastic rear window (limited value on this)
use composite rear deck and cup car wing, keep engine compartment fan for street use
delete doors and side windows, use cup car doors with frames, cup car side mirrors
delete sunroof
delete rear bumper and mounts (the mounts are heavy, but if you keep a bumper you can get aluminum units from porsche motorsports), again use cup car tow hook
use GT2 aluminum rear cross member
delete front wheel drive, switch to cup car transmission
delete stock shifter, use cup car shifter and cables
delete street headlights with washers and use motorsport units without washers
delete heater (you can use a motosport unit is you want a defrost fan)
delete stock engine mounts and trans mount and go solid mount motorsport units on engine and trans (you need this anyway to help with the handling
usual bushings, cradle relocation, etc. as in cup car
all suspension should be cup car, or fabcar units if you know what you are doing (we do not - so I stuck with cup car units to simplify chassis tuning)
use moton or jrz units
use cup car rear side windows with vents
delete air injector, all other crap on motor - use motosport pieces to fill in the blanks as you take stuff out
I'll think of more later - but it has been a good experiment
#179
delete front bumper and mounts (add cup car tow hook)
delete ac cores (use one radiator fan on passenger fan for street use)
composite hood
delete fuel fill crap (use 100 litre fuel cell with dry break)
delete one wiper and part of wiper assembley (same as cup car)
add cup car electronic relay kill switch
use cup car windshield (thinner unit)
delete interior (use motosport dash w/ reduced support material)
delete wiring harness, use front and rear motorsport unit and custom engine harness
use plastic rear window (limited value on this)
use composite rear deck and cup car wing, keep engine compartment fan for street use
delete doors and side windows, use cup car doors with frames, cup car side mirrors
delete sunroof
delete rear bumper and mounts (the mounts are heavy, but if you keep a bumper you can get aluminum units from porsche motorsports), again use cup car tow hook
use GT2 aluminum rear cross member
delete front wheel drive, switch to cup car transmission
delete stock shifter, use cup car shifter and cables
delete street headlights with washers and use motorsport units without washers
delete heater (you can use a motosport unit is you want a defrost fan)
delete stock engine mounts and trans mount and go solid mount motorsport units on engine and trans (you need this anyway to help with the handling
usual bushings, cradle relocation, etc. as in cup car
all suspension should be cup car, or fabcar units if you know what you are doing (we do not - so I stuck with cup car units to simplify chassis tuning)
use moton or jrz units
use cup car rear side windows with vents
delete air injector, all other crap on motor - use motosport pieces to fill in the blanks as you take stuff out
I'll think of more later - but it has been a good experiment
delete ac cores (use one radiator fan on passenger fan for street use)
composite hood
delete fuel fill crap (use 100 litre fuel cell with dry break)
delete one wiper and part of wiper assembley (same as cup car)
add cup car electronic relay kill switch
use cup car windshield (thinner unit)
delete interior (use motosport dash w/ reduced support material)
delete wiring harness, use front and rear motorsport unit and custom engine harness
use plastic rear window (limited value on this)
use composite rear deck and cup car wing, keep engine compartment fan for street use
delete doors and side windows, use cup car doors with frames, cup car side mirrors
delete sunroof
delete rear bumper and mounts (the mounts are heavy, but if you keep a bumper you can get aluminum units from porsche motorsports), again use cup car tow hook
use GT2 aluminum rear cross member
delete front wheel drive, switch to cup car transmission
delete stock shifter, use cup car shifter and cables
delete street headlights with washers and use motorsport units without washers
delete heater (you can use a motosport unit is you want a defrost fan)
delete stock engine mounts and trans mount and go solid mount motorsport units on engine and trans (you need this anyway to help with the handling
usual bushings, cradle relocation, etc. as in cup car
all suspension should be cup car, or fabcar units if you know what you are doing (we do not - so I stuck with cup car units to simplify chassis tuning)
use moton or jrz units
use cup car rear side windows with vents
delete air injector, all other crap on motor - use motosport pieces to fill in the blanks as you take stuff out
I'll think of more later - but it has been a good experiment