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Dyno'd my Proto 650 today, results inside....
Just got back from a dyno session on a AWD Dyno-jet and wanted to share my results.
I have a basic 24/18G Protomotive kit. Protomotive K24/18G turbochargers 5 bar FPR Protomotive ECU Ported OEM Headers Greddy PRofec B-Spec 2 boost controller EVOMS Billet Diverter Valve BMC Filter Fabspeed LOUD EVOMS upgraded wastegates GT2 Intercoolers/ Stock hoses Custom Aluminum Intake Plenum (FVD Style) 70mm intake hoses to turbos Results: First run was with the boost controller set to 1.1 BAR (low boost setting). 507WHP @6700RPM (I let off early since the AFR were a bit lean) Looking at the graph it was clear the car was still climbing in power. Next run was with the controller set to 1.3 BAR (high boost setting), the car made 535WHP @7100RPM. Once again the AFR went lean running 13-14.0 from 5.5K RPMs up. I will be sending in the ECU to Todd for fine tuning and hopefully get the AFR's in the 11's/12's. All runs done with 100 octane. Overall very happy with the setup, car is SCARY FAST! :D |
you should dyno it on 93 to see what it does. unless of course you drive around with race gas all the time :)
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You should not dyno on a AWD Dyno Jet unless you want a new front diff as well.
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Originally Posted by PorschePhd
You should not dyno on a AWD Dyno Jet unless you want a new front diff as well.
Also, I noticed the front wheels were spinning at a slower rate than the rears until it really got into boost?? |
You must run a mechanically coupled dyno unlike what the DJ is. A Mustang is about the safest bet. Your car has a viscous coupling which with friction will lock up to pull more power to the front wheels. The DJ does not simulate real use and there for the front diff will over heat because it is rolling at a different speed and can not change lock up. It continues to get to the point that the front diff will split from the internal pressure of the coupler exploding. There have been so many cases of this. If your front wheels were not rolling the same speed you more than likely have done damage especially at this level
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Originally Posted by PorschePhd
You should not dyno on a AWD Dyno Jet unless you want a new front diff as well.
Originally Posted by PorschePhd
You must run a mechanically coupled dyno unlike what the DJ is. A Mustang is about the safest bet. Your car has a viscous coupling which with friction will lock up to pull more power to the front wheels. The DJ does not simulate real use and there for the front diff will over heat because it is rolling at a different speed and can not change lock up. It continues to get to the point that the front diff will split from the internal pressure of the coupler exploding. There have been so many cases of this. If your front wheels were not rolling the same speed you more than likely have done damage especially at this level
+1 Perfectly said. |
have todd look at the graph... u should not be seeing 13s.....
markski |
Wow - Amazing how consistent Todd K is with this set up. I basically have the same set up and went 531 AWHP. I was running around 1.38 Bar, but my AFR's never went above 12.5 and heald steady at 11.8.
I was 509 AWHP in the "Low Boost" setting Mine is the same set up minus the custom Intake and GT2 Intercoolers. |
Originally Posted by Origyns 973
+1 Perfectly said. |
Originally Posted by deputydog95
you should dyno it on 93 to see what it does. unless of course you drive around with race gas all the time :)
Remember, higher octane fuel does not add power, in and of itself. It only allows for more power to be made by either advancing timing, or running more boost. I had pretty much the same setup and I made the same power on low boost with 93 as I did with 103. |
Great numbers, Don. Congrats!:)
P.S. - Heed Stephen's advice on the dyno. He knows what he is talking about. He's being doing this stuff for a few years.:D |
I dont think he ever answered if he pulled his driveshaft or not but I dont know of any DYNOJET owner that would let a 996TT on there awd dyno with out pulling the shaft. but the way his numbers read I really dont think that he made all wheel passes. Dgreen correct me if im wrong.
SM |
Originally Posted by Highhats
I dont think he ever answered if he pulled his driveshaft or not but I dont know of any DYNOJET owner that would let a 996TT on there awd dyno with out pulling the shaft. but the way his numbers read I really dont think that he made all wheel passes. Dgreen correct me if im wrong.
SM
Originally Posted by dgreen78
News to me, please explain....
Also, I noticed the front wheels were spinning at a slower rate than the rears until it really got into boost?? |
Originally Posted by PorschePhd
You must run a mechanically coupled dyno unlike what the DJ is. A Mustang is about the safest bet. Your car has a viscous coupling which with friction will lock up to pull more power to the front wheels. The DJ does not simulate real use and there for the front diff will over heat because it is rolling at a different speed and can not change lock up. It continues to get to the point that the front diff will split from the internal pressure of the coupler exploding. There have been so many cases of this. If your front wheels were not rolling the same speed you more than likely have done damage especially at this level
George |
Congrats Don and thanks for posting the numbers. I really like your set up.
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