Does anyone have a detailed write-up for performing a DIY oil change for the 996TT?

Parts list would be appreciated as well!

Thanks.

 

I would also be interested in this as well.

 

I am on it

 

Thanks Stephen!!!! Im sure many others will benefit from your response!

 

We started one here but it needs more testing. Different dealers gave us different part numbers for the sealing rings. If you use this please make comments for improvement. Thanks!

 

In the second drawing (btw there are two number 3 instructions), please note that there is a nut of sorts above the sockette. My service tech. cautioned me that this nut needs to be held tight with a wrench while the drain screw is loosened in order to prevent the storage tank from twisting and possibly coming off. He also said that the repair (if the tank comes off) would require droppiing the engine!

The oil filter wrench is really a giant specially designed sockette for the oil filler assembly cap. The cap appears to be identicle to that used on '99 (and later?) Mercedes. The Mercedes socket is has a nuymber 103 589 02 09 00, and might be more readily available. Mine for the Mercedes fits the Porsche '03 996tt.

 

Thanks for the info. I've updated the site.

 

What I should have said was "oil FILTER" not "oil filler" assembly cap. It looks exactly the same on the outside as those I've seen on the Mercedes. Cannot tell about the inside. Mercedes certainly does not use the same filter for all of its cars. Externally, their filter cap tool looks entirely different from Porsche's. Also, you might want to include instructions for installing the filter. On some cars (the ML for one) there are a number of different sized O-rings that fit on the shaft the filter slides on. They should come with the filter. Of course the old ones s/b removed then the new ones installed. I missed removing an old one once, installed a new O-ring over an old, and broke the shaft that is connected to the cap when I reinstalled it. Really dumb!

Just another observation. I looked under the car. There is a lot of exhaust plumbing which will be very hot to stretch across before you get to the drain screws. While I think the drain screws can generally be reached without even raising the car, I personally would want the car higher up than I can get it (safely for my comfort level) in order to work on the drain plugs without running an unexceptable (again for me) risk of sustaining serious burns. Changing the oil does not seem to be terriblycomplicated, but there are some cautions.

Fred

 

After looking at the procedure on Renntech, I want to know how critical it is to remove the remaining oil in the filter cavity with suction (Step 7)? Is this a large volume that will adversely affect the new oil? I could hardly believe it would be of any significance.

 

It is not a large volume (maybe 50cc) -- my only concern would be that when you put the filter out small particles of dirt could fall off the filter into that oil and then if you don't remove it -- it goes right back on the filter. It literally takes 30 secs to do this.

 

Your oil change instructions omitted draining the oil from the turbochargers(GT2 and TT). You don't want to forget this step.

 

Correction...

The oil filter socket is a standard oil filter socket which you can pickup at Checker Auto or Autozone for $4.29 each (I purchased the composite version rather than the metal version because I didn't want to marr the finish on the factory oil filter housing).

I'll get everyone the size of the oil filter socket in the morning and post it here.

Joe West

 

You don't actually need to suction it out... it is a simple matter to take a clean disposable shop rag and stuff it into the cavity and have it absorb the oil... the additional benefit to this approach is that you wipe out any debris which may have gathered at the bottom of the filter cavity.

Percentage wise, I'm sure the amount of contamination you'd be introducing into your engine would be minor... the question is; do you want any contamination from the filter you just removed being circulated back into your engine? Remember... when you remove the paper element, there is a good possibility that some filtered contamination could fall back into the housing... I don't know; it's such an easy step to stuff the shop towel in and wipe things out that I think I'd recommend doing the step rather than skipping it.

Kind Regards,

Joe West