Hi,

I'm getting ready for my 60 000 mile service (to do myself) and I'm shopping for ignition coils, since they seem to be the most expensive part of the service.
I've read about the coils starting with the serial number 996 and the ones starting with 997. I read that the 997's were the newest ones on the market. Is there a difference?
I found a good deal on Ebay for the 997's for about $300, has anybody found a better deal anywhere?

Link to Ebay
http://motors.shop.ebay.com/sportsca...=1&_from=&_ipg=

Kristian

 

I did my 60K, service about a month ago myself, I found out that I had a couple of hairline cracks on 1 coil and major cracks on another, ended up changing 2 coils only, you don't have to change them unless they are cracked or giving you problems.

 

Thanks for the info. I just pulled out my coils and checked them out. I had cracks on two of them too. I had one of them missfiring before. But now when i put them back, I have three cylinders missfiring. A few of them were a bit hard to get to so maybe I twisted them and ruined one of them, since they are probably pretty old to start with. I'm just going to buy all of them, so that I don't have to deal with them for a while.
Thanks
kristian

 

FYI: I used Bosch plugs instead of Beru, the 2 cracked one I had were the left and right closest to the bumper, which were the hardest to get to.

 

I found some on Vertex Auto for my 996 1999 for about $49 - $54 dollars
http://www.vertexauto.com/Listitems/Page/4.aspx

 

Hi,
I ended up getting the set for $239 from the same seller, since the price dropped, so I got a good deal. I replaced the coils and the car runs great.
KL

 

where did you manage to get them at that price? did you use the 996 or 997 numbered ones?

 

Hi,
I bought them on Ebay, it's the same link as on the first post. They just lowered the price $20.
They are the 997... ones.

KL

 

I did the same thing. I ordered from e-bay for 279. I spoke with a couple of P car mechanics I know and they both said to replace all the coils at 60K. Better safe than sorry

 

Dont Replace them unless they are Cracked or throwing Codes... get them here http://www.e-partssales.com/miva/mer...y_Code=996elec

I just had my 60k Service done last week, had the Tech Inspect the Coil Packs, the Advisor said they are Visually Rusted but they are 100% in Working order... I dint have them replaced

 

The problem with that is if they crack later - they eventually will - and moisture gets in the crack and if you live in a place where it freezes the moisture will expand and the crack will become worse. This could lead to a misfiring, CEL, and terrible performance. Better to replace them and drop one potential problem from the bin as the car ages. Unless you don't plan on keeping it.

 

true...ever since temps dropped into the 30's and 40's here in WI my car has been running like crap misfiring. Put new plugs in, its a little better but my guess is the coils will need to be changed. Going to buy a set of 6 of those next.

 

Hey Kristian, in addition to the coils, what else is involved with the 60k service? Do you have a list of parts and things you did?

Thanks

 

I replaced all my ignition coils since they started acting up after I changed the spark plugs. I didn't want to fix them one by one, since I didn't want to keep working on them. Also you get a better deal by buying them all at once.
I also changed the differential oil on top of checking these things on the car. It wasn't due untill 90 000, but I did it anyway.
On top of all this, change your three pulleys or at least check them throughly. One of mine broke just after 60 000 and I was lucky that it broke while I was driving 10 miles per hour. But it still twisted the pulley and broke the serpentine belt. I read horror stories about people driving high speed and the pulley twisting so bad that it broke the part of the engine wall off. They had to replace the whole engine wall...
The reason why they can make so much damage is that the bearing just simply locks up...

Kristian

1) Diagnosis system: Read out fault memory
2) Polyrib belt: Check condition
3) Change the engine oil and oil filter
4) Replace the spark plugs and ignition coils
5) Vehicle underside and engine compartment: Visual inspection for leaks (oils and fluids) and abrasion (lines and hoses)
6) Underbody panels: visual inspection for completeness, installation and damage
7) Coolant hoses: Check condition;
8) Radiators and air inlets at front: Visual inspection for external contamination and blockage;
9) Coolant: Check the level and antifreeze protection
10) Air cleaner: Replace the filter element
11) Particle filter: Replace the filter element
12) Fuel system: Visual inspection for damage, routing and secure fit of line connections
13) Power steering: Check the fluid level and bellows
14) Parking brake: Checking the free play of the parking brake lever
15) Brake system: Visual inspection of the brake pads and brake discs for wear
16) Brake hoses and lines: Visual inspection for damage, routing and corrosion. Checking the brake fluid level
17) Clutch: Check the play and pedal end position
18) Throttle actuation: Check smooth operation, check the full throttle position with the Tester
19) Steering gear: Visually inspect the bellows for damage
20) Tie rod joints: Check the play and dust bellows
21) Axle joints: Check play, visual inspection of dust bellows for damage, check screw connections of running gear adjustment facility, front and rear, for secure fit
22) Drive shafts: Perform a visual inspection of the boots for leaks and damage
23) Exhaust system: Visual inspection for leaks and damage, check suspension
24) Tires and spare wheel (collapsible wheel): Check the condition and the tire pressure
25) Check the door locks, lid locks and safety hooks of the front lid to ensure that they are secure and functioning properly

 

I forgot that I changed the brake fluids on my car too. That's an easy job with a brake fluid pressure pump.

KL