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I am somewhat newer to the 996 scene, being that I only have a couple thousand miles under the belt.
What are the common operating levels for oil pressure, temp, coolant temp, etc.
Maybe it is just do to the extreme Vegas heat, but the last couple days, the car doesn't seem to be running as it should. Last 2 days, especially on the way home (5pm and 110-113º outside), the coolant temp seemed to be rising. The oil pressure seems a bit low. Battery voltage looks ok, but the meter I have on my phone plugged in is showing 12.5V, which would be low. Idle is sitting at 750 RPM.
Here is a where everything is sitting as I got to work this morning. Again, coolant temps look high, oil pressure looks low.
2000 911 C2 Cab w/ manual transmission. As you can see, just shy of 97k miles.
Things I know have been done recently:
New battery - 3 weeks ago
Oil/Filter Change - Mobile1 0W-40 Syntheic - last night - this was rather dirty, but I didn't see any metal or foreign pieces in the filter
Transmission oil drained and filled - last night
What would cause the low voltage? Only accessories plugged in are Valentine 1 and my cell phone
What to look for with the cooling system? Level looks fine. I plan on flushing this over the weekend as I don't know when it was done last.
Oil pressure - I see the sending units are a common failure, along with the pressure relief valve. Could something with the low voltage and higher temps be causing this too?
I really don't see anything wrong here expect the engine temps. It's getting too high. I'm in the south where outdoor temps are hitting the 100F mark and both of my Carreras stayed at 180F or less.
Question, how long were you driving before you got these readings?
Maybe it is just do to the extreme Vegas heat, but the last couple days, the car doesn't seem to be running as it should. Last 2 days, especially on the way home (5pm and 110-113º outside), the coolant temp seemed to be rising. The oil pressure seems a bit low. Battery voltage looks ok, but the meter I have on my phone plugged in is showing 12.5V, which would be low. Idle is sitting at 750 RPM.
What would cause the low voltage? Only accessories plugged in are Valentine 1 and my cell phone
What to look for with the cooling system? Level looks fine. I plan on flushing this over the weekend as I don't know when it was done last.
Oil pressure - I see the sending units are a common failure, along with the pressure relief valve. Could something with the low voltage and higher temps be causing this too?
Ideas to look into tonight, this weekend, etc...
Thanks!
What would cause the low voltage?
If the car is idling and you check the terminals and the voltage is not near 13.8VDC, then more than likely the alternator and/or voltage regulator is going out. When the voltage exceeds threshold (14.4V High side or 9.9VDC on the low side) you should get a battery voltage warning.
What to look for with the cooling system?
The most common failure on the engine cooling system is the water pump. Of course, if the water pump impellers have broken off, then you may have a blockage which would result in higher temps. Also, it's also a good idea to swap out the thermostat with a 160F low temp version from LN
RE: Oil Pressure
The oil pressure should read around 2-2.5 at idle. It should read above 4 bar at 3000+ rpm.
It's a good idea the next time you change oil, to drop the pan and inspect the oil pump for blockages
Last edited by ZuffenZeus; 07-27-2018 at 06:32 AM.
On my '99, I have a new water pump, JUST cleaned the radiators [ a real pain what with the bumper cover & all] and my temp gauge needle now normally sits at high noon w/o the AC, just to the right with the AC on. 82,500 miles.
On my '99, I have a new water pump, JUST cleaned the radiators [ a real pain what with the bumper cover & all] and my temp gauge needle now normally sits at high noon w/o the AC, just to the right with the AC on. 82,500 miles.
Hey Kevin,
Have you thought about removing the front bumper? I believe that probably the only way to get the job done right. On my last Carrera, I regularly vacuumed the air ducts out with the bumper one thinking it was completely clean. But decided to remove the bumper. You wouldn't believe how much crap was crammed between the two rads.
That's actually what I meant: I took off the whole cover and took the opportunity to install some screens thereon. [I guess I meant that the actual bumper does not come off the car - just the cover - semantics ] I took some photos, but they look like all the others. Loads of crud between the radiators and condensers - everything from dried weeds to feathers. I used a still brush first, then a shop vac, then I washed them out with a good stream of water. I could not bring myself to use the power washer on those units. Even with all that, the temp still climbs up there. I should have had a lower temp thermo installed when we did the engine -out for the IMS, main seal, chain quides, tensioners, AOS, water pump....etc, but my guy still says this temp is still acceptable. When it hits 200 or the little red light starts flashing, time to take action.
That's actually what I meant: I took off the whole cover and took the opportunity to install some screens thereon. [I guess I meant that the actual bumper does not come off the car - just the cover - semantics ] I took some photos, but they look like all the others. Loads of crud between the radiators and condensers - everything from dried weeds to feathers. I used a still brush first, then a shop vac, then I washed them out with a good stream of water. I could not bring myself to use the power washer on those units. Even with all that, the temp still climbs up there. I should have had a lower temp thermo installed when we did the engine -out for the IMS, main seal, chain quides, tensioners, AOS, water pump....etc, but my guy still says this temp is still acceptable. When it hits 200 or the little red light starts flashing, time to take action.
Wow man! You've been busy!
How did you learn to remove the bumper skin safely? YouTube??? Share links?
I have to confess that I did use a YouTube vid to remove the front flappy bumper cover. I watched it a lot. I kept it on my tablet in the garage whilst removing it, just in case I forgot something. Took my time. The car was rolled outside for the serious cleaning, then back in to put the cover back on...which takes a LOT longer than removal. You have to finesse it back on there. I also took the time to replace the missing screws and spacers that a previous owner/mechanic/fool left off when they put it back on last. I hate corners getting cut, especially since this thing is held on by a complicated series of screws and fasteners.
I hate corners getting cut, especially since this thing is held on by a complicated series of screws and fasteners.
Amen! I'm the same way. When I do a job, I replace all the parts that the previous owner forgot to reinstall or broke. And, I'm must admit I'm a little OCD too. Last time I was repairing a trim piece on the seat belt panel and dropped one of the metal retaining clips down deep in the panel. Took me two hours to find it with a magnetic probe. That little thing had fallen down into the rocker panel. Some people would have just ignored it, but I couldn't go to sleep at night knowing I left that behind. Plus... it would be my luck that it would start bouncing around creating a new rattling noise that would drive me bonkers. hahaha
I really don't see anything wrong here expect the engine temps. It's getting too high. I'm in the south where outdoor temps are hitting the 100F mark and both of my Carreras stayed at 180F or less.
Question, how long were you driving before you got these readings?
This was after a 23 mile trip to work, maybe 30-35 mins. So stop and go, some freeway speeds.
What would cause the low voltage?
If the car is idling and you check the terminals and the voltage is not near 13.8VDC, then more than likely the alternator and/or voltage regularly is going out. When the voltage exceeds threshold (14.4V High side or 9.9VDC on the low side) you should get a battery voltage warning.
What to look for with the cooling system?
The most common failure on the engine cooling system is the water pump. Of course, if the water pump impellers have broken off, then you may have a blockage which would result in higher temps. Also, it's also a good idea to swap out the thermostat with a 160F low temp version from LN
RE: Oil Pressure
The oil pressure should read around 2-2.5 at idle. It should read above 4 bar at 3000+ rpm.
It's a good idea the next time you change oil, to drop the pan and inspect the oil pump for blockages
I will check the true voltage when I get home with a multimeter. My phone was reading 12.5V idling when I got to work, based on the 12V/cigarette socket.
Is there a way to test the water pump? If I recall, this is a project to replace?
Was contemplating pulling the bumper and making sure the radiators are clean. Looks to be a process as well.
How involved is the thermostat swap, have not looked into that yet.
When the engine was cold this morning, I was definitely seeing the 2 bars at idle and 4+ at 3000+. I was thinking the 4 bars seemed a bit high.
How much of a pain is dropping the oil pan?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but not sure about things requiring dropping the engine. Don't know if I want to get involved with that or not.
I will check the true voltage when I get home with a multimeter. My phone was reading 12.5V idling when I got to work, based on the 12V/cigarette socket.
Is there a way to test the water pump? If I recall, this is a project to replace?
Was contemplating pulling the bumper and making sure the radiators are clean. Looks to be a process as well.
How involved is the thermostat swap, have not looked into that yet.
When the engine was cold this morning, I was definitely seeing the 2 bars at idle and 4+ at 3000+. I was thinking the 4 bars seemed a bit high.
How much of a pain is dropping the oil pan?
I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but not sure about things requiring dropping the engine. Don't know if I want to get involved with that or not.
Have you had this show on your display? If not, count your blessings. hahaha j/k
Not hard coming off, but a little more involved going back on because you have to reseal the pan. Make sure you follow the correct procedure and not over seal it.
Have you had this show on your display? If not, count your blessings. hahaha j/k
haha, thankfully no.
I was told the IMS was replaced in Nov 2017 with the clutch.
I haven't looked through the records yet to confirm. Maybe I will go grab them from the car and take a look....and what else may have been done.
07-26-2018, 10:31 AM
- semantics ] I took some photos, but they look like all the others. Loads of crud between the radiators and condensers - everything from dried weeds to feathers. I used a still brush first, then a shop vac, then I washed them out with a good stream of water. I could not bring myself to use the power washer on those units. Even with all that, the temp still climbs up there. I should have had a lower temp thermo installed when we did the engine -out for the IMS, main seal, chain quides, tensioners, AOS, water pump....etc, but my guy still says this temp is still acceptable. When it hits 200 or the little red light starts flashing, time to take action. 
