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What a day, now to figure out what's happening with the car
Was driving today and saw the CEL light start flashing. Trying to get off the freeway and to pull over, I see a bunch of smoke coming from the engine bay. A couple seconds later the car shut off and wouldn't restart. Luckily by the time that happened (less than a minute for all that) I was able to get pulled to the shoulder.
got the car towed home and ran the codes for CEL and it's a plethota. P0301 P1225 P1227 P1230 P1228 P1226 P1229 P1115 P1117 P1118 P1119 EDIT: Ignition/Oxygen/Injector Relay fuse blown. not too long ago, found a small coolant leak from a hose. Replaced that and all was good. Didnt notice any more leaks. Could a small leak like this somehow cause the fuse to go? Maybe there is another one, car is 18 years old. The coolant level in the overflow is 3/4 now, so somewhere its leaking or evaporating again. 2000 911 C2 6 speed 97k on the clock Eek, gotta see what these all are. And try to determine what would cause that and hope they was nothing additional to find. And, did I mention the tow truck blew a tire while taking the car and I home? |
Originally Posted by TheFlapjack
(Post 4758350)
Was driving today and saw the CEL light start flashing. Trying to get off the freeway and to pull over, I see a bunch of smoke coming from the engine bay. A couple seconds later the car shut off and wouldn't restart. Luckily by the time that happened (less than a minute for all that) I was able to get pulled to the shoulder.
got the car towed home and ran the codes for CEL and it's a plethota. P0301 P1225 P1227 P1230 P1228 P1226 P1229 P1115 P1117 P1118 P1119 EDIT: Ignition/Oxygen/Injector Relay fuse blown. not too long ago, found a small coolant leak from a hose. Replaced that and all was good. Didnt notice any more leaks. Could a small leak like this somehow cause the fuse to go? Maybe there is another one, car is 18 years old. The coolant level in the overflow is 3/4 now, so somewhere its leaking or evaporating again. 2000 911 C2 6 speed 97k on the clock Eek, gotta see what these all are. And try to determine what would cause that and hope they was nothing additional to find. And, did I mention the tow truck blew a tire while taking the car and I home? hope things get better |
P0301 - Misfires cylinder 1
P1225 - Fuel injector, cylinder 1 P1227 - Fuel injector, cylinder 3 P1230 - Fuel injector, cylinder 6 P1228 - Fuel injector, cylinder 4 P1226 - Fuel injector, cylinder 2 P1229 - Fuel injector, cylinder 5 P1115 - Oxygen sensor heating (I don't which bank/sensor) P1117 - Oxygen sensor heating (I don't which bank/sensor) P1118 - Oxygen sensor heating (I don't which bank/sensor) P1119 - Oxygen sensor heating (I don't which bank/sensor) Would have to believe all of the above were tied to the blown fuse/relay. You need to be sure the fuse/relay box is not wet and the coolant leak then gets fixed. If the system is not pressure tight this can lead to localized overheating which can "kill" an engine pretty quick. Even if the engine somehow dodges the bullet this can also have the system venting hot coolant which ain't good either. |
The issue looks to be this bit of rodent activity
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.6sp...959f778535.jpg The coil and end of pigtail connector are both melted. |
I see some serious rodent damage. Ouch! Looks like the exposed metal in the cable shorted and caused excessive heat to led to the plastic melting. Sorry to see that. Are you going to replace the coil pack connector or replace the entire wire harness? Keep us posted!
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Originally Posted by b3freak
(Post 4758820)
I see some serious rodent damage. Ouch! Looks like the exposed metal in the cable shorted and caused excessive heat to led to the plastic melting. Sorry to see that. Are you going to replace the coil pack connector or replace the entire wire harness? Keep us posted!
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i feel your pain and experience on an Audi. Little flockers ate almost thru a secondary coolant hose deep in there. overheated engine, warped intake manifold. coudda been worse if it was the aluminum block. Good news is that my home insurance covered the 4k bill as the Audi tech told the insurance co that it was indeed them little f@#$&*%. bty, eversince i sprinkle cayenne pepper powder in the engine compartment on all the cars, including the ones that have to sleep outside |
Originally Posted by TheFlapjack
(Post 4758823)
I am planning to just replace the pigtail connector. The entire harness is a mess
Please post lots of pictures and description on the process. I've heard replacing the entire coil pack wiring is a major chore. Is there a way to replace the pigtail ends without splicing the the cables? I suspect these are high current lines that would be susceptible to electrical performance issues if not repaired correctly. I wish you the best with this job! |
UPDATE: well this week, so far I've replaces all 6 coil packs, spark plugs and wired in a new plug/connector for the cylinder 1 coil pack. While at it, changed the fuel filter, oil change and replaced the radiator cap.
it fired right up and ran great. then I get a couple miles away and stop, only to see the coolant leak wasnt the radiatoradiatas steam was coming from the engine bay. Looked around that area and sure enough some splatter. I went ahead and tightened the cap down as it seemed to have a few spins to go, hopefully that's all it was and not a leak somewhere else. I guess next step would be bleeding the system making sure no air is caught and then a pressure test. [Anyone know if you can rent/borrow these from autozone?] [Or what the approximate cost from an indy to test it? I dont really want to drive it that far to the closest indy]. what then? Water pump, expansion reservoir, thermostat? damn....was really hoping to be able to take the car on a road trip to SoCal, about 250 miles each way this weekend. Edit: the other oddity... the climate controls didnt come on, buttons dont work, no temp or fan speed, etc showing on the display. I will double check the fuse when I get back home and have a light. |
Originally Posted by b3freak
(Post 4758904)
Please post lots of pictures and description on the process. I've heard replacing the entire coil pack wiring is a major chore. Is there a way to replace the pigtail ends without splicing the the cables? I suspect these are high current lines that would be susceptible to electrical performance issues if not repaired correctly. I wish you the best with this job!
I didn't do any pics as the only thing I did not already detailed out many times was the replacing of the connector. This was a simple electrical deal, cut off the bad end and soldered, taped and heat shrink tubing. |
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