Thanks again for your help.

About the bigger screen ; I had vision of driving and looking at the thingy at the same time, and my vision is not as good as the younger days, so just thought "bigger is better." You know, same rule for speakers, amps, subwoofer, tv screen, lenses, etc. "No replacement of size" somehow always seem to apply to my hobbies LOL.

The "N/A" monitors: Yeah, it was "not applicable," not "failing" so yeah I think/hope this means am OK and could relax finally.

 

Hi Mike, when my car was there, the main things that were recommended were:
1. Better intercooler - mentioned several times. (Garrett's own 996 Turbo has an AWE intercooler I believe.)
2. Better RON rating than our terrible California PON 91.

I believe I have an open invitation from (Dr.) Garrett Lim for another custom tune with chassis dyno, when and if I decide to add an intercooler. I know an intercooler would help a lot but so far I have refrained because I really don't need more power for this daily driver (it's pretty "frenetic" as is already LOL). In addition, stage 3 would also mean a clutch for sure, as my car's clutch was already slipping at stage 2 at higher rpm on the dyno (you could see this in the dyno graph of my car). But... YMMV ... I am less of a power guy, more into enjoying and improving handling/steering; the car already feels like an uncontrolled missile with this stage 2.

I'll let the experts chime in on *when* the need for colder spark plug arises, but to best of my knowledge it's more necessary for higher power gain than my stage 2 mod, for risk of fouling (from too cold spark plug - spark plug shouldn't be too cold or too hot, there is a recommended temp operating range and therefore too cold spark plug is not always a good thing). Some basic info here for anyone interested: http://www.ngk.com/learning-center/a...or---do-i-need

 

Thanks for the info! That is always good to know! Also if GIAC does not recommend them then i would assume they are more efficient at creating power?


Im my case i have a NHP catless exhaust and gt2 intercoolers. I have been following the thread and from what you say that would be considered stage 3. Now i wounder with my mods if the colder plugs would be recommended?

 

1. Mike you trouble maker, are you trying to turn my little thread into a controversial mess? No I think it's just a matter of what each tuner thinks is best and that my tune is a modest stage 2 with little horse power gain (but with a fantastically fat and juicy torque curve :-)). I think NGK recommends one heat range colder for every 75-100 hp gain which would explain why the 10% gain (40-50 hp) of a typical stage 2 mod doesn't need colder plug (for fear of fouling) but that's a rough guide and again, I am no expert in this and any pro here pls feels free to chime in if I am wrong.

2. I think it would best to wait until you will have decided on whatever company, then just ask the tuner regarding whether you need colder plugs.

 

You right, thanks for the info this thread is very informative!

 

Some interesting pictures from the chassis dyno tuning session, first one is picture of required accessory, ear plug :-). It was loud, very loud, extremely loud. Second picture shows the cooling needed to try to duplicate real-world driving condition. I assume this is where knowledge and more importantly, experience of tuner comes into play: how much does this cooling approximate a car in motion. A very tricky issue when I think about it. For the general program, GIAC obviously would also data-log car while driving to obtain additional and comparative data.

There is a big screen to the left of my car in the second picture, and on this screen power curve, boost, AFR, IAT, EGT, etc., are superimposed. There are a couple actual probes in my car for direct measurements of some parameters also. The tuners would do WOT 4th gear run, look at curves, alter program, another run, look at curves, and so on, until all parties are happy what what the see.

 

I forgot one more thing that Garrett mentioned, the 5 bar fuel pressure regulator. I believe this is in his 996 Turbo and I would assume that it is needed primarily for higher power tune stages than my stage 2, to prevent lean condition under full acceleration. Oh what fun .

 

Fantastic thread - RED ROCKET!

 

hello cannga
to me you are a example to follow, thanks to his advice have helped me to change my Cargraphic exhaust system

I would like to ask you, the next step in my car's ecu tune
that seems best FVD company or Cargraphic?

my mods are exhaust system 200 cells and I / C gt2 rs

greetings to all

 

We recommend only the factory plugs, regardless of power level.

 

Hi there, thanks and you are welcome. Glad you like the exhaust; I am still surprised by how sound could change driving experience so much. Don't forget to take it through the tunnels: So loud, so deafening, so loooooovely .

Re. ECU tune, I have not driven either, and comparisons are nearly impossible, but both FVD and Cargraphic are reputable companies with good products.
That said, since you already have a Cargraphic exhaust, I think it would be nice to have the Cargraphic tune. "Alex" from England, who used to post here, has the exact combination you are planning: Cargraphic exhaust + Cargraphic tune and he has written about the combo very very favorably.

In case you don't know, Reinhold Schmirler is the brain behind both the Cargraphic ECU tune and the exhaust. Schmirler, the RS of RS Tuning, started at RUF but is now on his own and tunes Porsche professional race cars for a living, among other things. He is not well known in the US but is considered to be a top notch tuner in Europe.

 

Thomas, thanks for the clarification and please say hi to Garrett and Austin and the gangs for me. Wow just like that 4 years has passed since I was there.

Please ask Garrett if I am nutty enough to add intercooler and clutch, do I still have an open invitation to come back to the GIAC "mecca" for a re-tune on the dyno? Lunch on me this time.

 

Of course, we're in a new location now that you have to come check out! Feel free to contact me about setting something up with a tune for new hardware.

 

^^^Thanks Thomas.

 

Repost from another thread regarding the boost meter in our 997.1 Turbo.

This is "normal" in my car, a 2008 997.1 with GIAC tune. Because I keep original ECU (I have 2 ECU's, one is untouched original I keep in a safe box :-), the one in the car is a duplicate of original, then has GIAC tune loaded onto it.) and because the GIAC tune could be used to load the stock program, I could still measure the stock behavior. Incidentally, behavior of boost pressure reading and the scale has not changed with the GIAC tune.

How I measure without breaking speed limit: Empty, safe, straight freeway, 5th gear, let car coast at 50 mph, should be around 2000 rpm or so. Now let go of gas pedal completely, then after 1 second smash it to the floor. By 68 mph, around 3000 rpm or so, my car consistently hit max psi. All the following is from the stock program, not GIAC (which behaves identically anyway, except that it would hit max boost sooner at around 64 mph, completely within legal speed limit, just have to put up with all the cacophony inside the car ).

What I see with car's OEM meter, numerically:
Normal: 15 psi (not 14, but 15) at around 3000 rpm. I believe this is because 1 bar is 14.504 psi, rounded up to 15 psi.
Sport: 17 psi (never 18, only 17) at around 3000 rpm. I believe this is because 1.2 bar is 17.4 psi, rounded down to 17.
Ah... German engineering's precision and logic, even in rounding.

What I see with car's OEM meter, the bar graph: The scale is psi-9-18 regardless of mode.
Normal: Does not go all the way to the right of the scale
Sport: Goes all the way to the right of the scale, at the 18 mark.

What I see with Durametric in Stock Mode, the actual measured boost:
Normal Stock 2020-910 = 1.110 bar = 16.1 psi at 3248 rpm, max engine load 154
Sport Stock 2250-910 = 1.340 bar = 19.4 psi at 3471 rpm, max engine load 172

What I see with Durametric and GIAC
Normal GIAC 2350-910 = 1.440 bar = 20.9 psi at 3421 rpm, max engine load 194
Sport GIAC 2550-910 = 1.640 bar = 23.8 psi at 3343 rpm, max engine load 222

Unless there is an explanation for why, and I know this is requested, not real boost, it actually would bother me a little bit if my car doesn't hit 15/17 on the numerical scale. The next step I would do would probably be to get a Durametric cable to measure just for peace of mind. Hope this helps on this very confusing topic.